2000 LX470 300k Refresh (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 24, 2020
Threads
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91
Location
Oklahoma
I finally have a steady stream of parts coming so I figured it was time to start the thread for anyone interested.

I have a 2000 LX470 with 300k+ on the clock. I’ve had it for a few months and came up with a list of wants and needs based on what I’ve noticed during the 200 miles I’ve put on it so far as well everyone’s input on here.

I bought it cheap as it was suspected to have a blown head gasket and had been sitting for a year. It had been religiously serviced at Lexus it’s entire life until that point with 2 PO, the last having owned it for 12 years. It’s a Midwest vehicle without a speck of rust that has likely never left pavement.

It is currently a backup vehicle, so progress may be slow at times as it isn’t a very urgent refresh/rebuild. That said, my goal is to transform it into a reliable daily so I can sell my JKU and get a C7 after their prices fall thanks to the C8!

Here’s the plans:

- Combustion gas test was negative, head gaskets are fine. Further investigation revealed a pinhole leak in the radiator. Bought TYC radiator, factory hoses, Tees and red factory fluid. Going to flush it well first as it currently has aftermarket green coolant.

- Timing belt and water pump were done 45k ago. I Only travel 7500mi a year or less so I will wait on this one. I am going to replace the serp belt however and will check pulleys at that time.

- AHC pressure readings are off according to tech stream and the fluid levels are only 4-5 ticks under the hood. The front end will fall from normal to low and raise back up periodically while driving and the ride is a bit bouncy. Fluid appears clean so I suspect original accumulators are failing. I may just crank the TBs and see if ride quality improves for now. Otherwise, I will likely keep the AHC system and just buy new accumulators.

- Steering column is loose. Bought new bushings and bolts thanks for a thread I found on here, hopefully it will be an easy fix. I have disabled the start up tilt through tech stream to preserve what life the motors have left as well.

- Lost all electrics twice while driving, engine didn’t stall or die, just noticed the power surged causing the dash lights, radio, and headlights to go off and back on. Lasted less than a second. Found the positive battery terminal was a little loose. Also thoroughly cleaned all links and most connectors under the hood as they were dusty. Keeping an eye on this and hoping it’s not some electrical gremlin.

- Blue smoke on startup. PCV valve grommet was missing so the valve was not even in the hole and the PCV valve hose was cracked. Removal of spark plugs revealed a spark plug tunnel seal was leaking. Ordered a PCV valve, hose, grommet, valve gaskets and spark plug seals, 8 plugs, and 2 coils as back ups.

- Side steps and chrome factory wheels/tires HAVE to go. I like the factory 18” wheels however so I will try to source an affordable set of those with some mild ATs as I don’t plan on lifting it as of now.

- Exterior paint on both bumpers is flaking off and there are scratches and dents on the body. Ordered paint for the cladding and will try my best at a paint correction for the scratches.

- Interior carpet is stained, interior front seat bottoms are ripped, interior console latch is broken.
Ordered a used latch from a Camry, cheap seat covers for now, carpet stain remover, and floor mats. I am much less concerned about this area for now.

- Clunking from P to D or R and occasionally on take off. Ordered grease and will regrease all zerks in hopes that will cure it as opposed to needing new joints.

- Oil change, also sending oil off to the lab to have it examined for extra peace of mind. I have priced a replacement engine, but hopefully this one has plenty of life left.

- Trans fluid flush. It looks clean, but can’t find records on the last refresh. Will also do the diff fluids at that time.

- Front brake chatter. I bought new pads and rotors, but didn't realize how much of a PITA it was on the 100 series, so I am going to get a few hub parts and do it all at once anticipating that they’ll need to be refreshed as well.

I anticipate the project taking until the end of Summer or early Fall. Parts have taken a long time to arrive thanks to the Pandemic with some not scheduled to arrive until May-June. Our weather is also pretty temperamental around here so I won’t be working when it’s 110+ and humid out. I really look forward to getting this all done however and I am VERY thankful for this forum. I am good at searching before asking, but I am sure I will still need help now and again.

- Jay
 
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Yesterday’s findings from pulling all plugs and PCV inspection. Really not bad considering the last recorded change was almost 200k ago. 6 coils have been replaced over the years and I have 2 back ups for when the others go bad. The plug and coil with oil on it was missing the coil gasket which I’m thinking maybe had something to do with it, not sure. Either way, the valve cover and tunnel gaskets will be in soon as will the PCV parts.

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Good job! The coil with the brownish boot may need some attention. Check the boot for cracks: squeeze and turn it lightly. I replace boots on mine with every spark plug job.
 
Fixed the loose wobbly steering column today!
The bolts were VERY tight but the bushings were destroyed as you can see. I replaced both sides and the column is normal now.

FYI for anyone who attempts it, you are better off taking the lower dash plastic off as opposed to working around it. It’s a 15 minute total job, but it took me 40 mins because I was fighting the plastic on the drivers side. Ended up stripping the torx head off the bolt too due to a bad angle. Fortunately I had ordered two along with the bushings.

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a PITA it was on the 100 series, so I am going to get a few hub parts and do it all at once anticipating that they’ll need to be refreshed as well.
Might as well hit upper/lower ball joints, TREs, possibly CV axle reboot kit. They are all in that area and likely need to be done as well. Might as well only do the labor once...
 
Picked up a set of factory 20” Tundra wheels today for $100. I don’t have the key for the locking lugs, but once I find a work around these will be going on for now. Probably not long term, but much better than the ugly things on it now!

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Welp, the PCV parts arrived today and I reassembled everything including the new valve cover gaskets. Started her up and she smoked blue smoke like a cigar for about 20 seconds then settled. I had sprayed the throttle body to clean up the carbon a few days ago however, so I will chalk it up to that and any residual that leaked before the gaskets were replaced.

After another minute or so of letting it idle without issue, I had a steady flow of white smoke "steam" develop from the tailpipe, enough to be visible but not enough to form hazy clouds. I am going to hope it was just because it rained recently and the car hadn't been started in a week. It is 75 outside though so I am not sure. The steam did stop after a good 30 seconds or so fortunately. I will change the oil over the weekend and have a sample sent off the Blackstone so I can stop worrying or start planning on what to do next. I will hold off on the radiator change and coolant flush until I get the results back.

Side note, Factory LX lug nuts will not fit Tundra TRD wheels, the threads are the same but the outside diameter is too wide for the hole. Had to order a new set!
 
What a huge difference this made! Was my first time doing it so I made a mess, but wow. No more clunk! I did all the fittings but only managed one pic.

Update: I did NOT do a great job getting the excess off and boy do I regret it.. there is a mess all over the exhaust and bottom of the motor. A good degreasing is in store now!
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Alrighty, so I took the side steps off, put the Tundra TRD wheels on, finished cleaning the interior, got seat covers put on, steering wheel cover, and did a little buffing on the paint.

The rear passenger wheel was a nightmare to get off, I snapped two wheel studs in the process. I couldn’t find a reason why, there was no rust; oh well.

Lastly, I found the driver side axle boot ripped, so that will need to be replaced.

She’s getting there! Next up will be tackling the radiator and hose swap.
 
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Picked up a set of factory 20” Tundra wheels today for $100. I don’t have the key for the locking lugs, but once I find a work around these will be going on for now. Probably not long term, but much better than the ugly things on it now!

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Are these chrome rims the new ones? A lot of folks hate the chrome so wasn't sure... These look great.
 
Are these chrome rims the new ones? A lot of folks hate the chrome so wasn't sure... These look great.

Yessir! I believe they were off a 2015 Tundra. I was really iffy on them myself as I’m not a chrome guy, but figured for $100 I couldn’t lose. Now that I’ve seen them on, I am happy with the purchase. They don’t look nearly as early 2000s dub edition bling as I thought they were gonna look.
 
Alrighty, so I took the side steps off, put the Tundra TRD wheels on, finished cleaning the interior, got seat covers put on, steering wheel cover, and did a little buffing on the paint.

The rear passenger wheel was a nightmare to get off, I snapped two wheel studs in the process. I couldn’t find a reason why, there was no rust; oh well.

Lastly, I found the driver side steering rack boot to be ripped so that might explain some of the loose steering I’m experiencing.

She’s getting there! Next up will be tackling the radiator and hose swap.

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What kind of seat covers are those? And are you enjoying them
 
What kind of seat covers are those? And are you enjoying them
These are the ones I got, they’re just the bottoms for the front seats. I went very value oriented for the interior, so with that in mind I’d say they’re just okay, 6.5/10. They have a few tie down points so I haven’t noticed them slip or anything yet. The heated seats aren’t as hot obviously, but can still feel it. The color is my main grief. They’re a lot more yellow than pictured, but for the price, I’m not complaining too much.

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These are the ones I got, they’re just the bottoms for the front seats. I went very value oriented for the interior, so with that in mind I’d say they’re just okay, 6.5/10. They have a few tie down points so I haven’t noticed them slip or anything yet. The heated seats aren’t as hot obviously, but can still feel it. The color is my main grief. They’re a lot more yellow than pictured, but for the price, I’m not complaining too much.

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Not bad at all, they actually match the lower part of your dash... I grabbed one of these cheap one's to hold me over as well until can address with new seats...
 
Didn’t get a lot of photos, but did get a lot done today. I flushed the cooling system 3x to get all the old crap out. Turns out they had mixed green coolant with red coolant and judging by the calcium deposits in the old hoses, they used hard tap water.

I got the old leaky radiator out, and put the new TYC in which looked really decent for the price. The one I took out was aftermarket, and whoever put it in, did a terrible job. Not only the mixing of coolants, but it was missing 2 mounting bolts and had no foam around it. I am sure that is why it cracked, it was pretty loose. I also noticed the brackets holding the high pressure AC lines are missing pieces so I am going to try to find those as well. The rad hoses actually looked decent, but I went back with new OEM hoses. Also did the Heater T’s and one broke on the way out so it was a good thing!

Got it burped and took it on a quick drive, all is well!
I ordered the missing radiator and skid plate bolts, so it will just sit til they come in.

Pics to come tomorrow! Here’s the new radiator with new foam.

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What hub parts did you decide you wanted to refresh when you do the brakes? I have a similar 100 series and am getting my notes together about what to do up there all at once.
 
Hey CapnSpaulding, Sure were not related?? I just bought the 293,000 mile LX-470 out of Tempe AZ. off Craigslist and I'm in Tulsa OK. Lots of Lexus service history, and lots of money thrown at it from independent shops over the years. I am going to follow your experiences/repairs with yours! I'm not worried at all about the milage on these units as I see these for sale in Japan at the FVEJ.com dealer auction with 600,000 to 890,000Kms quite often.
I am ordering the timing belt, water pump kits with all idlers & bearings, belts & hoses to "Baseline" the (Front) of engine. I'm also replacing the coolant hoses on the intake manifold area to pipe to oil pump as they will be accesable (I hope) and might as well change them now.
We have a 2009 LX-570 but I REALLY prefer the ride & drive of the 100 series more than the 200. I've had a few of the 80's, 100's and the one 200 and the 100 series is by far my personal favorite! How about you, any other experience? At 60 now I plan on keeping the 470 and will get past 500,000 miles in about 4 years so it's going to be fun to see what it takes! I'm jelous of yours!! My interior is ROUGH & STAINED but, Sweet Thing hauls straw bales, feed, gardening stuffl, chickens, ducks, geese and small animals so it's JUST RIGHT for HER! lol
Well.....here we go with these high mile units! Enjoy the ride!

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