2000 L470 Broken Transmission (1 Viewer)

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  1. Not serving wheel bearing ever 30K miles.
  2. Not setting breakaway preload properly during wheel bearing service. Leaving wheel bearing loose, causing chatter (vibration) of wheel bearing. Evidence of chatter can be seen on scoring/grooving of claw washer (as seen in below pic)
  3. Not setting hub flange snap ring gap to spec of less than 0.20MM.
  4. Not lubing axle brass bushings & needle bearings when doing a wheel bearing surface. Brass Bushing wears increasing snap ring gap.

The above condition or just wide gap, along with reusing old snap ring. Is when we see snap ring just pop off.

What happens is wheel bearing chatter from being loose. This chatter causes scoring in claw washer, which loosens bearing more increasing chatter. Axle moves in and out of hub flange due to excessive snap ring gap, more than the .19mm maximum allowed. As axle moves in and out the vibration turns hub flange and axle into a saw. Sawing away at teeth of each other. The axle is a harder metal so hub flange gets the worst of it.

Improper service Leeds to claw washer scoring

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You can also see how this snap ring and cone washer took a pounding. This snap ring was near just popping off.
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Cone washers are designed to give a little, taking up shock. But this one is scored from improper wheel bearing serves.
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I replace hub flange and cone washer often. I always recommend when replacing front drive shaft eliminated to the number one cause of D-N-R clunk.. Properly serviced wheel bearing help protect the front drive shaft, which are pricey!
 
Looking at that cone washer, it reminds me why I have new ones on hand. The idea of replacing the drive flange never occurred to me. Aren’t they quite expensive?
 
I apologize for so many pics as I dont know what may help you help me. Many thanks for your continous help.
In the pictures below, I see that there are two thread. One in the front (silver, which hole with thread in the middle), I assume that this connects with the axle or part of axle, sits on it is the snap ring. Behind the snap ring, there are another threads/grooves which are the one of the hub flange.

This is my finding
1) when I rotate the wheel, the hub flag rotates with the wheel. This is expected as it is connected to the wheel. The snap ring and the outer grooves do not rotate with the wheel
2) I can pull out or push in the outer axle piece (one with center hole with threads in it) with screw driver leaving space between the snap ring and the hub flag. as you will notice in 4th picture
3). In the first picture, there are no threads under the snap ring, The threads are only at the outer edge. No threads going under the hub flangs. I see parallel lines along the axle (see first picture). is this something stripped off.

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I rotated wheel, the flange rotated but the snap ring and the axle doesnt. Look at the position of the raise strip in flange and compare it with the axle and snap ring

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my WAG is after taking the snap ring off you will need to grind down the raised section of splines to be able to remove the drive flange.

either way it all needs to come apart as there is obvious wear where there shouldn't be any.

@2001LC thanks for the info above, I had no idea on what caused this situation for the OP
 
at the edge of the axle towards me. the one you point with red pointer is actually metal. The metal is folded out towards the outer edge.
Do you think that the axle is stripped off the threads like one in the picture below.

moly_grease_is_a_must.jpg
 
is there a problem that i can create space between the hub flange and the snap ring. I can just pull the axle outward. if the gap needed is 20mm. than i doubt this could happen if there is so much play.

Right now I have already purchased the bearings, inner and outer, and seal. Do you think I need to replace these? Do I need the axle and the hub flange as well?

20190317_105857.jpg


20190317_110132.jpg
 
I think you need to just pull the clip - and work the flange off. Your can leave the wheel on to do all this.
With those off you should know what you need to order.
 
baghloli123 said:
do you think that the hub flanke threads are also stripped off
Click to expand...

the mushroomed metal is because the axle was moving in and out and slowly worked against the splines to deform them.
those are not threads they are splines, and yes they look stripped. until you take it apart, you won't know for sure what parts you will need.
my guess is you will need a new cv axle, drive flange and diff seal along with the other stuff you have. my opinion is to get all that X2 and do the other side also.
 
With these better picture, I can now see metal shavings. I'd say you've the worst case here, in why, wheel bearings need proper services. I say this because it looks to me as if the most expensive part needs replacing. That is your front drive shaft (AKA CVs). As I don't think axle will hold a snap ring well in that snap ring groove. The axle teeth/splines may be shot as well, they certainly are in bad condition.

Are you planing on doing repairs yourself?

NEW OEM front drive shaft installed.
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Thanks. I will take it to mechanic for the fix. I neither have skills nor courage to open up the car to do the fix.
I have already purchased the bearings, and the bearing seal. I am assuming that the axle is ripped off of splines because of the bearing which were not installed properly.
Is there a chance that the bearings are still good, but just loose. The mechanic can just reinstall it.
I am going to purchase the axle. I am not going for OEM,, it is too expensive. What do you think of napa.
 
OEM only. Get a new hub flange, cone washers and Hub flange snap ring also. Size of snap ring depends on final gap measurement. They come in 0.20mm increments. I use 2.40MM the most. Your may need 2.6 or even 2.8MM snap ring. As I'm sure your axle bushing took a beaing and has worn more than usual. You may even need new hub flange nuts. I love doing both side at the same time. It about $950 in parts.

Brass bushing in back side of steering knuckle has biggest effect on snap ring gap when new hub flange is installed.
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This one has factory grease still in place.
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They need lubing every 30K just like wheel bearings. This is rarely done. This steering knuckle has been reconditioned, bearing & bushing lubed and new seal installed.
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Wheel bearing, axle bearing and bushings are almost always okay.
 
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