200 LC Brake pedal travel

[96bruzer]

Hello Fellow Mudders,

I need help on my brakes. When I step on the brake pedal, the travel is very low, not the way it used to be.

When this happens, I would usually adjust the rear parking brakes and it would really work great but now after doing the adjustment the brake pedal travel only came up a bit. The hand brake lever has 3 clicks so I don't know whats up.

My 08 200 LC has 45k and all is stock. Front and rear brakes are all good as well as brake fluid and there are no visible leaks. I did do a search but did not find anything.

Anybody have any direction on correcting this? Appreciate the help, thanks guys!

 

[JBHorne]

Hello Fellow Mudders,

I need help on my brakes. When I step on the brake pedal, the travel is very low, not the way it used to be.

When this happens, I would usually adjust the rear parking brakes and it would really work great but now after doing the adjustment the brake pedal travel only came up a bit. The hand brake lever has 3 clicks so I don't know whats up.

My 08 200 LC has 45k and all is stock. Front and rear brakes are all good as well as brake fluid and there are no visible leaks. I did do a search but did not find anything.

Anybody have any direction on correcting this? Appreciate the help, thanks guys!

With only 3 clicks on the parking brake, are you sure it's not binding??? Mine is more like 8-9 clicks. I had the dealership check it today and it's "set right before it would begin to grab", meaning even one click and there is SOME resistance. With only 3 clicks to lock, I'd think you would be partially engaged even when released...

 

[96bruzer]

JBHorne, I had 8-9 clicks before I adjusted it and the brake pedal travel was low. I would normally adjust it then the brake pedal would be better but this time it is not. I did some more research on the manuals and asked on the 80 forum and the brakes seem to be separate system so now I am more confused on why the brake pedal travel was better after I adjusted it everytime except for now. I also adjust the rear parking brakes on my FZJ80 and it would work great. Anyway, anybody else with any ideas please let know and thanks for the reply!

 

[JBHorne]

You mentioned this in another thread (forgot which one) and I provided a word of caution with adjusting the parking brake to only 3 clicks, but here's maybe a better explanation of what could be occurring.

Yes, you are correct that the brake systems are completely separate. As the LC200 has rear disc brakes (unlike the 80-series with rear drum brakes, the emergency brake s actually mounted inside of the rear rotor, known as an auxiliary drum brake.

On four-wheel disc brake systems that have "mini-drums" inside the rear rotors, the parking brake works like a conventional drum brake. Pulling on the cable forces the shoes outward against the drum to lock the wheel. But unlike a full-sized drum brake, there's no self-adjuster mechanism for the star wheel to compensate for shoe wear because one isn't needed. The only time the parking brake is applied is when the vehicle is at rest so shoe wear is virtually nonexistent. The shoes should last the life of the vehicle -- unless the parking brake is binding and causing them to drag. The thickness of the shoe linings doesn't really matter as long as there is enough lining left to hold the car on an incline with normal cable travel.

What this means is that most likely you have adjusted the screw for the hand brake so tightly that your auxiliary brake is binding. If the binding is too tight, you may have worn the brake out and really should have it looked at by a dealership. With 3 clicks to lock, I cannot possibly see how you are not driving with it bound to some degree. As this brake is only designed to be used in emergencies or to hold the vehicle stationary when parked, it's not designed for any kind of friction/heat while driving. It wouldn't take long to burn it up.

The most likely reason you are experience "low peddle travel" is because, when you first adjusted the e-brake (mistake IMHO) to only 3 clicks, you were driving all the time with the drum brake bound (not good). As the e-brake is now shot, you now don't experience the "benefit" of having the constant braking force and are thus experiencing "normal" brake performance.

Not sure what your experience driving trucks are, but truck brakes are not nearly as hydraulically assisted as sedan brakes (not to mention the added weight) and thus require much more pressure and travel to activate.

If your handbrake was set to 3-clicks, I'd be very surprised if you didn't burn the system out.

Like I said before, mine is set to 8-9 clicks. I had the dealership check, and even at 1 click it is partially binding. It's going to take 8-9 clicks of force to lock this massive a vehicle.

I'd highly recommend never touching the brakes unless you know exactly what you are doing (I'd never touch mine). Take it to the dealership and have them examine the system carefully...

 

[96bruzer]

The most likely reason you are experience "low peddle travel" is because, when you first adjusted the e-brake (mistake IMHO) to only 3 clicks, you were driving all the time with the drum brake bound (not good). As the e-brake is now shot, you now don't experience the "benefit" of having the constant braking force and are thus experiencing "normal" brake performance.

...

Now I understand what happens with the system and what happened to it. Thank you so much for the explanation and I will have the local dealer check the parking brakes. Again thanks for taking the time in fully explaining JBHorne! Appreciate it. Another satisfied mudder

 

[rove_mcanus]

I'm going to assume that the 200 series is like the 100, and the 80 series and other 4 wheel disc brake toyota 4wds. (if it isn't feel free to ignore)

In these setups the handbrake and it's adjustment has absolutely no bearing on the foot brake and how it performs or feels. They are a separate drum brake setup within the rear brake rotor and isn't connected to the pedal or disc calipers in any way

If you have a low pedal then It will be something like a faulty master cylinder, air in the system, or something wrong with the ABS, brake assist or any other doodad that works off the brake system.

You should definitely have it checked out.