2 months after buying, cracked engine block, not my day!

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Nov 27, 2007
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Location
Charleston, SC
As some of you might know, after nearly 4 months of searching I found my new baby about 2 months ago. A 97 40th anniversary in Sage, locked, 120k and in pretty darn good shape. I was ecstatic and have been loving it. I had a leak I couldn't find and so took it to a local cruiser shop and they discovered a crack in the engine block about an inch long, right below the center freeze plug. From looking on here it seems like some others have had this exact same problem in the same place. Looks like the previous owner just tried to cover it with some putty. They are going to edge a groove and try to use metaltech to stop the leak and hopefully that works for now. Needless to say I am not quite up for dropping 4-6k for a new block right now, but if this doesn't work that may be my only option I guess. My bargain truck just got a lot more expensive..............
It is at the shop, I miss her allready............
 
Don't buy a new block if it comes to that.... just get a good used one.

I should preface the next statement with the fact that I am no mechanic:

Aren't our blocks iron? Can't they just open up the crack a little with a grinder and then weld the seam shut?
 
Don't buy a new block if it comes to that.... just get a good used one.

I should preface the next statement with the fact that I am no mechanic:

Aren't our blocks iron? Can't they just open up the crack a little with a grinder and then weld the seam shut?

Welding cast iron is a tricky business - it can be done, but it's not easy.
 
I have the same crack in the same place. I suspect it has been there for a long time. I didn't notice mine until after I flushed the cooling system, which probably flushed out the stop leak that was hiding the leak. From the suggestions of a few here, I simply put more stop leak in it. That seems to have stopped the leak. Of course the crack is still there, but it hasn't changed since I first noticed it. And that's after MANY cold nights in west virginia during snowboard season. I decided not to worry about it, and it has been almost a year ago I guess. I may get around to cleaning it up and putting some JB weld on it one day..
I did recently find a used engine for a GOOD price, thanks KIRK! I plan on rebuilding that engine some day, but for now it will just sit in case I need it.
 
I have the same crack in the same place. I suspect it has been there for a long time. I didn't notice mine until after I flushed the cooling system, which probably flushed out the stop leak that was hiding the leak. From the suggestions of a few here, I simply put more stop leak in it. That seems to have stopped the leak. Of course the crack is still there, but it hasn't changed since I first noticed it.

Good to hear; I remember that thread.

:beer:

Curtis
 
LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. homepage: Cast iron crack repair, cast iron welding, thread repair inserts

I would suggest the above method if/when you get around to it. There is NO guarantee that a replacement block might/might not have the same problem... I have seen this method used to repair cracked iron/aluminum cylinder heads with good results so this would be my fix. (previous link came from an older thread)

I called these guys before, they need you to remove the engine out for them to work on. There is really not a lot of space to work on.
 

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