2.5” lift caster plates plus spacer? (1 Viewer)

[lx450landcruiser]

Hello all

I recently installed OME 2.5” heavy lift. I have not installed the caster correction bushings as I’ve been reading a lot about them not being reliable long term compared to the OEM as well as potentially not giving enough caster.
My questions is many suggest going with more caster then necessary. I see landtanks 2.5” caster plates but if I intend to add a 3/4”-1” spacer would I still go with the 2.5” caster plates or would I be better off with the 4”?

 

[NLXTACY]

I one inch spacer gets you at 3.5” of lift. That puts you outside of the 2.5 plate’s caster correct. I’d go 4”.

 

[GW Nugget]

Yeah, to correct your 850/863 stinkbug purchase, most add the 30mm coil spacer up front & now you are at a 3.5" lift.... most likely a 23.5" center of hub to bottom of flare.
At that point I would suggest to caster correct for a 4" lift.
Stay Calm & Old Man Emu on....

 

[cjmoon]

I run 4” caster correction with about 2” if lift. More the better.

 

[lx450landcruiser]

Thank you all! I will get them in order
Cheers!

 

[lx450landcruiser]

Ok I have the wits end plates which requires drilling. I have not yet started the install but it occurred to me. Is there a reason I am missing for the drilling? Why not just make the plates with the correct sized hoes in the correct locations and just trim off the lower section of the axle bracket? Your welding these in and they seem thicker then whats on the trucks axle from factory. What am I missing?

 

[landtank]

Ok I have the wits end plates which requires drilling. I have not yet started the install but it occurred to me. Is there a reason I am missing for the drilling? Why not just make the plates with the correct sized hoes in the correct locations and just trim off the lower section of the axle bracket? Your welding these in and they seem thicker then whats on the trucks axle from factory. What am I missing?

The reason for drilling the 4” plates is to maintain the axles position in the stock location on the arms by rotating the axle in place on its axis.

The advantages from doing this is over the method you described are:

More caster correction
No tie rod contact with arms requiring grinding
No spring contact with bump stops
Better alignment of pan hard bar and steering drag link
Maintains stock position of tire in wheel well and how it travels during flexing
aligns pinion angle for DC shaft to control vibrations.
And maintains the factory alignment of the spring perches.









No spring to bumper

 

[lx450landcruiser]

Thought I would report back. I did the install per the drilling directions. What a pain but the results are shockingly positive. Truck drives completely different and so much better. This is a 2.5” heavy lift with the 4” lift caster correction plates. I still don’t see why a machines version of these plates couldn’t be made. Where the installer uses a cut off wheel and trimmes off the bottom of the stock bracket. It would be worth an additional $100 cost to not have to drill

 

[landtank]

Actually anyone could drill out the pilot holes off the truck and then do what you say. However there was a lot of talk back in the day about the plates being reversible, meaning removing them to go back to stock. So as supplied the plates would allow you to remove them and the original holes would still be intact.

 

[lx450landcruiser]

Unless I installed mine wrong I believe your drilling about halfway through an existing hole so I’m not sure how you would go back?

 

[landtank]

The front hole is complete and the rear hole is a figure 8. So if you were to remove the plates the arms would still be held in position.