2-4 FJ40 Shifter Idea - Complete

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Nov 7, 2003
Long Island, NY
So instead of going to far into fabricating a shift linkage after the SM465 install, I came up with this idea.


1. Welder
2. Half inch nuts x2
3. pipe clamps x2
4. zip ties x4
5. Super duty PTO cable from a freightliner dumptruck

Step 1:

First I mounted the knob and routed it through the heater control knob's hole in the firewall.

Here is another shot:


I then welded two nuts (lol) to the bottom of the motor mount as shown with clamps:


I then heated and made a loop of the interior cable (beefy cable) and welded a stud into the shifter groove.
I put one 9/16 nut on first, and then sandwiched it with a nylock 9/16 nut as shown:


Works like a champ.

Now, I will follow treeroots design on the side of the sm465 for the hi/lo - which is simple. The difficult part of that is lining up the 2/4 shaft. With this pull cable, its really pretty cool, and believe it or not - shifts easy.

Thought I'd share......

Hi All:

Dallas, neat idea! So, that cable is stiff enough to activate the shift mechanism in both directions? (i.e. pull-out to engage, push-in to dis-engage?)


Yes, PLENTY stiff. I had to use a cut off wheel to cut it. I had some side cuts (big craftman ones) and all it did was dent the pliers. It is UBER stiff. I had to heat it to get it to bend.

Just like a normal shifter, sometimes I have to roll forward a little to get it to engage, but it works like a charm.

I actually bought this cable from a friend. Originally it's about 8 feet long. The shielding on it is also near impossible to work with. When I got the cable, there is a warning tag on it that says "Please use caution, coil is under pressure". Meaning, dont just uncoil this thing or it will whip your eye out.

I am having a 1.75" sticker made to go on the button of the knob that reads"



If your nut/bolt combo welded to the 2/4 shifter holds I will be surprised as it is a hardened steel shaft and not really proper to weld to. If your weld does not hold you can get the proper size drill rod from MSC Direct which you can drill and tap or weld to make your connection.
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even if it was a hardened shaft i beleive the outside 1/8" is the only hard part, if you shaved it down with a grinder you shouldn't have any problem welding on it.
Yes, i also have the same concern John. Good call. There is really not that much pressure needed to move the shaft - especialy if you are slightly moving forward or backward, it nearly is effortless.

I am not following you on this drill rod? You mean drill through the side of the shaft, tap it, so that the bolt goes through the shaft? If so - yes I agree, somethings have to be done right.


Drill rod is machineable steel rod you can buy to machine parts from. I purchased a length of the same metric size as the stock 2 /4 selector and made my own shaft. Here is what it looks like. If your weld does snap and you would like to try your hand at creating your own shaft let me know. I have a good length of rod left over. As you can see from the pictures I drilled and tapped the end to use a lawnmower TRE for the linkage to the shift lever.
that pretty slick!
i take it you had the vacume actuator originally?

hmmmmmm :idea:

Nice looking double Cardigan joint, too Dallas;)


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