1x11 / drivetrain guys - what tooth FR sprocket you run? Esp w/27.5-29 tires (1 Viewer)

[LINUS]

Just curious - back when I got my crank arms as a kit (Raceface was backordered if you were piecing together) - it came with a 32 tooth & that seems the std for 1x11'er bikes being sold the last few yrs.

I wasn't fond of it - always meant to drop down to a 30t until I rode a buddy's Hightower 27.5+ that has the 1x12 on it. That was a mistake, as 2 days later I was on the phone with Competitive ordering a 28t to get that same ratio in low as a 1x12.

It's a big jump, and I'm still deciding if a 30t should have been my choice - but for real trails and not just quick street shakedown runs the drop is nice.

Anyone else ditched their 32t on a 27.5 or 29'er -- what did you go to?

 

[gilamonster]

On my 27.5 full suspension, I run a 30t-works great on every hill I need to climb.
if I can't spin up it, I probably couldn't in a lower gear either. On my 29er rigid, I run a 32, mostly pavement so it gives a bit higher gearing for cruising.

 

[BillRiley]

On my 29er I had a 30t. When i switched to a 27.5+, I put a 32t on thinking that is what I had on the 29er. The 27.5+ is slightly smaller in diameter and with 3.0" width and low pressure lets me stand up on steep climbs that I'd have to sit for a 29er, so the 32t has worked well.

 

[Dork]

I put a 32t Absolute Black oval on the front, with a 11-42t Shimano XT rear cassette on 26" tires. It works out that I'm losing one effective gear each from the top and bottom end compared to my old 2x9 setup. Gears I apparently never really used anyway, so I'm happy with it. Not exactly your scenario but

 

[LINUS]

I put a 32t Absolute Black oval on the front, with a 11-42t Shimano XT rear cassette on 26" tires. It works out that I'm losing one effective gear each from the top and bottom end compared to my old 2x9 setup. Gears I apparently never really used anyway, so I'm happy with it. Not exactly your scenario but

Well, yes & no to being my scenario. I initially went 1x drivetrain as I got a Santa Cruz Bronson 'shop demo' deal & I liked it but had a Heckler that was still a 2x.

In hindsight the Heckler I liked the pure ride of, and the linkage of the Bronson1 was a weird "load & release" -feel. Like it was acting like a near hardtail until you hit enough force, then the geometry/shock/Idunnowhat would really cave & get active.

I'd stupidly sold my Heckler, so when the Bronson2 came out I was really already thinking Evil Insurgent even at full price, but a ride on the new link/shock/Idunnowhat & it was like SC read my mind - plus the B2 OE shock was a resi Fox unit that you could adjust far more than the Fox CTD on the original Bronson ---- Through all my attention on the rear susp I kinda wasn't paying attention to the gears or the lack of FR derailer, so I made the transition more in a game of "3 card monte" where I was looking elsewhere, meaning I was hung up on that rear susp - my dealer demo deal meant I had to keep it for 12mo & just make it available to potential Bronson buyers.

Now with a Push shock on a B2, I am down to the little stuff - and I've seen the ovalized gears but never rode/know anyone with one.

I'd ::try:: a 30t ovalized (not keen on jumping back to 32t range) - the 28t was a bit of a granny gear.

Between 1x11's , Boost spacing , a reworked rear susp B2 frame - I was hung up on all that & ended up just really riding my "house route" where a 32t works (it's only a ~6 mi loop with mild, long inclines that result from an initial DH section you get).

Having just come off a weekend where we did a local set of trails (Galbraith for PNW'ers) - I just realized my 28t > 32t, but for moderate money I'd like a bit more span. Need is a strong word, but Galbraith made me happy for not hitting it on a 32t.

 

[LINUS]

On my 27.5 full suspension, I run a 30t-works great on every hill I need to climb.
if I can't spin up it, I probably couldn't in a lower gear either. On my 29er rigid, I run a 32, mostly pavement so it gives a bit higher gearing for cruising.

I hear many comparisons between CO & WA for terrain, and I tend to think a 30t would have been a better purchase.

Sadly, I recall my exact line of thinking after pencilling out the ratios for my 42t low vs a 50t Eagle cassette, and thinking to myself the advice we give in the 80 forum of how 4.56 is a worthless swap, going to 4.88's from stock 4.11's is the real value / noticable difference.

I saw that 30t, I even clicked on the page.

And I decided it was the 4.56 of the bike world, I wanted the 4.88's.

Mission accomplished.
Fortunately I'm not into smoking, I'm getting a heck of a cardio with the cadence you need on a 28t.

 

[Dork]

Regarding the oval part, I heard people talking about how much they helped so that's what made me go that route. Unfortunately, I changed my entire drivetrain while I did a full tear down and refresh during winter, and rode this summer fresh after the 6+ month winter, an extra 20lbs on the waist, and with what felt like a new bike. That means i have no clue if it helps or not, everything felt totally different.

 

[tnkayaker]

I'm running a 30t with an 11-46 cassette. I can get up must anything that I could with a 3x

 

[mabrodis]

I'm also running a 30t front (AB oval) with a 11-46 rear cassette on my 29er. I've been very happy with this. There are a few places where I wish I had a slightly slower gear, but there comes a point of going too slow and having no momentum to get over things and balance becomes a challenge, so the gearing I have forces me to not go too slow.

 

[gregnash]

If you are into geeking out about it a little go here...
Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator

For me, I find that I rarely want anything more granny than my 32-11/42 10spd setup. Actually I have been looking at grabbing a 34t oval for the front as I find that I spin-out more on the downhill than I need gearing to climb. On top of that I have nowhere near as fast on the downhill as I was prior to breaking the leg so I would still like the ability to push and have a bit more tension on the crank than what I have now.

 

[mabrodis]

If you are into geeking out about it a little go here...
Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator

For me, I find that I rarely want anything more granny than my 32-11/42 10spd setup. Actually I have been looking at grabbing a 34t oval for the front as I find that I spin-out more on the downhill than I need gearing to climb. On top of that I have nowhere near as fast on the downhill as I was prior to breaking the leg so I would still like the ability to push and have a bit more tension on the crank than what I have now.

You need higher elevation or steeper hills to climb...

Do you run an oval chainring now? I ask because the one time my oval chainring has left me a little 'meh' about it was when I try to pedal with a very high cadence. It'll work, chain won't fly off or anything but I think the expected mechanics of a pedal stroke (down stroke takes X amount of time, cross stroke takes Y amount of time, etc) get messed up when you pedal super fast so to me it feels more jerky and actually less smooth in that scenario than a normal round chainring. Could just be me and maybe I'm so useto using the oval at my normal slower cadences that when I try to crank it up maybe it's ruined me...ha, not sure.

 

[gregnash]

You need higher elevation or steeper hills to climb...

Do you run an oval chainring now? I ask because the one time my oval chainring has left me a little 'meh' about it was when I try to pedal with a very high cadence. It'll work, chain won't fly off or anything but I think the expected mechanics of a pedal stroke (down stroke takes X amount of time, cross stroke takes Y amount of time, etc) get messed up when you pedal super fast so to me it feels more jerky and actually less smooth in that scenario than a normal round chainring. Could just be me and maybe I'm so useto using the oval at my normal slower cadences that when I try to crank it up maybe it's ruined me...ha, not sure.

Meh to the first part... I live outside of Tahoe, plenty of both around here!!

Actually never run an oval so am just curious (also just planned on a cheapy $30 one and if worked out then would invest in something more substantial). Can't really think of any time recently where I was pedaling at a super high cadence, this is somewhat of a moot point for me anyways as I am on flats and that is a recipe for disaster (or hamburger for shins) if I tried it on even the slightest bumpy trail.

 

[tnkayaker]

I have a 32t ring and an 11/42 but I didn't have the stamina to push that gearing when I first got my bike. I was coming off a 3x. I might put the 32t back on when I replace my chain.

I did my first enduro race a few weeks ago and didn't feel like I was close to running out of gearing on the timed sections. Might be because I wasn't at the front of 40+ masters.

 

[Dubbinchris]

My 29er with a 1x11 setup came with a 32t. After a few steep climbs I swapped to a 30t and haven't looked back.

 

[Marco Lau]

30t or 32T

 

[tnkayaker]

30t

 

[gregnash]

Rings are cheap now days, get both! No need for the super high dollar rings unless you care about bling and name.

 

[LINUS]

Rings are cheap now days, get both! No need for the super high dollar rings unless you care about bling and name.

Good point. And I have the socket for the cinch nut for Raceface spindle. Start > finish I can swap sprockets in <15mins if I really find a need.

I got a 30 round, have my 28 still installed (really is nice for Galbraith trails, 1x11/32t is tall for some climbs there IMO) - and the 32 in my spares drawer.

I am betting the 30t round will be best as a 1 sprocket compromise for both home loop & going to our local trails.

 

[baldilocks]

I was very recently introduced to the 1x11 configuration. I can see the advantage of the increased ground clearance and a quick test ride proved that dealing with only one shifter is kinda nice.

How does it compare in all situations to the traditional 3x9 which is what I have experience with? Haven’t had a mtn bike for 4 years now. The terrain where I live can be very verticle and quite a bit of your ride can be spent grinding up steep inclines.

The bike I’m considering is the 2017 GT Pantera Elite 27.5”.

 

[LINUS]

I love the 1x11 setup, esp now with a 30t front sprocket.

My wheels are 27.5".

(Got it on in Oct, have ~70 miles on it).

Some guys talk about dropping the chain, but I was running a single link less than the math called to let the derailleur keep it tighter, it never drops on me & this is my 3rd 1x11 ,last 2 with 1 less link in chain. I'm also runing a bashguard on this frame since carbon, but so far it shows no rubs.

Seems stock is the 32t & depending where you ride, a 30t is like 4.88's, 28t is 5.29's (now that I been on all 3) - so if it seems 'tall geared' right away you may ask the shop to swap you sprockets & get credit against what comes off. Worth the ask while slapping plastic IMO.

My sprockets are ~$55 ea, so it is a few $$ on swaps (labor is all me).

I tried the 28t since the final drive acts like a 1x12 setup, but it was too low across the rest the board for my degree incline / drops I generally ride.

I'm not familiar with current GT, but I still have my old GT Ruckus hardtail (2010-ish?) - I love the geometry of GT's in general, was a Zaskar kid all the way.
IDK current quality, but my Ruckus was aluminum & China made - it's a champ.
HTH!