1st time rebuilding TC, couple of ?? (1 Viewer)

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The TC gears are from 73 and the transfer case itself is from a 74.
The idle gear and the low gear do not match up exactly as seen in the pic. Is this a problem?
The little brass cap that suppose to cover the end of the idler gear shaft? How is that suppose to be held in place?
pincover.jpg
Idler-gears.jpg
 
the gears should line up if it is assembled properly. The little brass looking cap is held in by using a punch and hitting the cap in the center .(try to do it in one good whack) sometimes they can leak if you hammer it too many times.
 
that don't look right mang.
do you got the nose cone/rear output set proper with right preload ? the gap between dog teeth is normal ? I would be comfortable with 1/2 as much misalignment , try using thin shim 1 side of idler and thick on other.
 
So, Cardinal Fang, you're trying to put 3-speed gears in a 4-speed case?
And the case is a '74? That should be the "transition" case and should line up better than that pic...
You sure it's a '74 case?
 
Yes, it is a 74 case. Got it off ebay for $50. I still need another case though. I have a complete 4 spd TC gear set that came out of my 75 pig after the TC split in half.

The shims are another questions. The manual shows the shims only on one side of the ideler gear. Can the shims be used on both sides? I still need to put a shim on the ideler gear. The clearance is not even close to being correct. I think I will need to purchase additional shims, which, I have read in the archives, can be bought at the dealer?

The nose cone for the front wheel drive is setup. Everything is tight. I don't see how that ideler gear can be moved forward a 1/4", or the low speed gear back that much. I will play around with it some more today.

Overall, this is not a difficult rebuild. The most questionable issue when rebuilding the transfer case for the first time, for me anyway, is trying to figure out what is a washer (two types), and a shim. The washers that go on the ideler shaft should be called 'bushings', or washer/bushing, or even copper washers.
 
Hmmm...Well if e-bay sez it's a '74 case, then it must be so. But if your putting 3-speed gears in it you gotta have the '74 input gear as well, yes?
I did this twice, but it's been a few years. Both times with a known transition case. First out of my 12/74 Pig, then out of my 12/74 40. Went together perfectly with no wierd shimming required at all. Just followed the FSM directions and used a 3-speed rebuild kit.
So, if your having trouble, I'm thinking you may not have the transition case.
Did you do your research?

http://www.kinzers.com/don/landcruiser/tcase_tech/
 
I was not saying that Ebay was the correct in identifying it, just where I got it.
A couple of more pics below.

Based on your link, which I also used before buying it on ebay, my case falls into either the 3rd case on the top row or the first case on the second row. What do you think?

I went back and tighten the parking brake bracket, which pushed the bearing further into the TC which, in turn alighned up the low gear better. But I still have some slack on the shaft between the low and high gears.
Transfer case 001-2.jpg
 
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I can't tell from the photos either.
Assuming you have what they said.
Looking better though...
 
Went to SOR and ordered new shims for both the 73 and 74 cases. Hopefully, those will tighten up the gears some more.
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Anyone have a 74-78 4 speed case they want to sell? I have all the gears, just no case. Well I do need the main gear on the output shaft. That gear broke a tooth off which split the original 4 speed case. That started the whole V8 conversion process 4 years ago.
 
i'm pretty sure that is a 4sp t-case . from one of your picks the cast bumps have been removed for the thicker 4sp gears to fit without rubbing check that tech link and look at the second pick on differences of the t-cases and look at the pic of his finger showing the cast bumps ,your t-case looks like it has the bumps machined off and the bolt holes go right through . ???
 
Bill, there are wafer thin shims that go between the race of the rear output bearing and the speedometer gear housing that are used to take up the slack and establish the correct preload for the output bearings. They come in a few different thicknesses, cost less than a buck a piece at the dealer and are still available. Order up a set, read the FSM or tech links here for the preload specs and you should be good to go.

;)

P.S. I would NOT put shims on both sides of the idler gear. You do know that there are two different thicknesses of the bronze thrust washers that go between the gear and the case, no? 4/75 and newer [thin] and 4/75 and older [thick] Frrom the sounds of it, you should have a set of each in your collection.
 
Thanks Mark. No, I did not know that about the thrust washers. I used the 3 speed thrust washers, which were pretty thick, but I still need to shim the ideler gear. I only have one shim for that, but, like said above I ordered additonal from $OR.

I had two of the thin shims that are used between the bearing and the parking brake housing on the output shaft. Those seemed to tighten the low gear tight.

One thing I did learn. The drain plug that I had in the 3 spd case will not work on the 4 spd case. It is too long and hits the low speed gear. Which is understandable because the 3 spd low gear is much bigger than the 4 spd low gear.
 
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