kcjaz
SILVER Star
Changed my oil for the fist time at 1160 miles. The oil was darker than I expected for 1000 miles but I really have no basis for my expectation here.
Another thing I noticed was that the drain plug is on the side of the oil pan like a lot of vehicles but it seemed a bit higher on the side which made me wonder how much oil would be left in the oil pan after draining it. When I drained it, I collected it in a bucket so I could measure it. I only got a hair over 5.5 QT even after I drained the oil filter. So, I lowered the truck to the ground (did I say I love my lift in the forum yet?) and jacked up the driver front corner to tilt the truck and got another 1/2 qt out. Total drain quantity was a little over 6 QT. Manual says 5.9 QT. I added 6 QT new oil and am near the top dot on the dip stick.
The torque spec for the oil drain plug is 30 ft-lb which seemed like a lot and felt like a lot more when I did it. I stopped at 22 ft-lb and double checked the spec. Went to 30 and it was fine. I did notice, when I had the plug out, that the threads are pretty deep. It’s not that like there are only a couple threads in a thin piece of tin. I think I will eventually put a Fumoto valve in at some point. The drain oil does come out with a bit of velocity and goes sideways first. Even with a lift, I got hot oil on my hand and made a slight mess as I didn’t have the bucket positioned over enough.
The oil filter was on way over tight. The good news is that my good cast aluminum filter wrench that fits the Toyota cartridge filters on LC and 3rd gen Tacos fits the new spin on filter. The filter seems ridiculously small but I like the spin on. Initially, I didn’t like the horizontal orientation of it but there is a “pour lip” on the oil cooler that helps direct the oil but it will still hit the cross member.
I used a collapsible funnel to extend the “pour-lip” which worked pretty well. Not my original idea, I saw it on a Team Oil Drop video.
The oil fill hole on top of the engine is really shallow and does not allow a funnel to just set in it. I’ll need to find a funnel that can thread on like the cap does. I think this will work: Engine Oil Funnel, Engine Oil Change Tool, Drain Tool & Locking Threaded Oil Funnel, Compatible with Ford and Mazda https://a.co/d/7nTz89Y
Lastly I discovered that the hood of the truck is not steel as my magnetic trouble light doesn’t stick to the hood. Googled it, and sure enough, it’s aluminum.
Another thing I noticed was that the drain plug is on the side of the oil pan like a lot of vehicles but it seemed a bit higher on the side which made me wonder how much oil would be left in the oil pan after draining it. When I drained it, I collected it in a bucket so I could measure it. I only got a hair over 5.5 QT even after I drained the oil filter. So, I lowered the truck to the ground (did I say I love my lift in the forum yet?) and jacked up the driver front corner to tilt the truck and got another 1/2 qt out. Total drain quantity was a little over 6 QT. Manual says 5.9 QT. I added 6 QT new oil and am near the top dot on the dip stick.
The torque spec for the oil drain plug is 30 ft-lb which seemed like a lot and felt like a lot more when I did it. I stopped at 22 ft-lb and double checked the spec. Went to 30 and it was fine. I did notice, when I had the plug out, that the threads are pretty deep. It’s not that like there are only a couple threads in a thin piece of tin. I think I will eventually put a Fumoto valve in at some point. The drain oil does come out with a bit of velocity and goes sideways first. Even with a lift, I got hot oil on my hand and made a slight mess as I didn’t have the bucket positioned over enough.
The oil filter was on way over tight. The good news is that my good cast aluminum filter wrench that fits the Toyota cartridge filters on LC and 3rd gen Tacos fits the new spin on filter. The filter seems ridiculously small but I like the spin on. Initially, I didn’t like the horizontal orientation of it but there is a “pour lip” on the oil cooler that helps direct the oil but it will still hit the cross member.
I used a collapsible funnel to extend the “pour-lip” which worked pretty well. Not my original idea, I saw it on a Team Oil Drop video.
The oil fill hole on top of the engine is really shallow and does not allow a funnel to just set in it. I’ll need to find a funnel that can thread on like the cap does. I think this will work: Engine Oil Funnel, Engine Oil Change Tool, Drain Tool & Locking Threaded Oil Funnel, Compatible with Ford and Mazda https://a.co/d/7nTz89Y
Lastly I discovered that the hood of the truck is not steel as my magnetic trouble light doesn’t stick to the hood. Googled it, and sure enough, it’s aluminum.
. The Fumoto valve and RCI skid with filter access will make it easy. So glad this doesn't have the paper filter the 200 does. Biggest pain on the 200 is changing that paper filter vs just screwing a filter off and new one on.