1st impressions of my 40's maiden voyage - concerns (1 Viewer)

[redeye]

Ok all,
I finally registered and plated the 40, a 71 FST with F engine & 3 spd trans. I wanted to list my first impressions and get input from other 40 owners on ideas to remedy or general comments.

1) A few times it nearly stalled when taking off in 1st gear. I had to press the clutch in and to get it going again. Any ideas? (Weber carb on this truck)

2) While on the subject of 1st gear, I could not put it into 1st w/o grinding. Now, I've heard the term "not synchronized" for 1st gear but don't know what it really means. Any tips on NOT grinding would be appreciated.

3) Speedometer does not work. Was bummed at this one because the cops in my town will pull you over for doing 27 in a 25. But let's be real, excess speed was never a concern in this truck.

4) Temp gauge does not work.

5) Engine screams. I mean LOUD. This is the oldest vehicle I've ever owned. If this is normal I'll believe you.

6) Steering seems to wander a bit, but I chalked it up to this being a 46 yr old truck and maybe this is totally normal.

Overall, I was oddly stressed out driving it and a tad worried about EVER driving it much farther than a 5 mile radius from my house. Maybe I ought to think about some upgrades or changes to dispel this concern.

-Ed

 

[JohnnyC]

Weber is most likely running rich ... but could be you need to get used to driving it... when I get my truck inspected it’s almost a guarantee the mechanic kid stalls it several times getting it in

Try putting it in second then first when shifting into first

The temp sender wire could have come off

The speedo could just be the cable ... check that first

They are loud ... they are tough

Tighten up the steering at center Link as well as drag Link ... check tre’s

Your stressed because it’s new ... and foreign ... ive been DD mine for 28? Years

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I’ll reiterate most of what JohnnyC said -

If the clutch shifts smoothly and doesn’t seem to be binding, my guess is you’ll need to tune the carb to alleviate the stall attempts. Another thing to check is to make sure your parking brake isn’t on or seized, it could be you’re trying to overcome a lot of resistance when you start rolling.

The grinding in first and reverse is normal on a 3 speed from everything I’ve read, though I have never driven one. Shift to (synchronized) second to line up the gears and then first or reverse and it should alleviate this.

Speedometer and temp sender could be a lot of things - worn speedometer gear in the transfercase, worn out speedometer cable, etc. same with the temp sender. Further investigation is necessary here.

Also keep in mind, if the cops are jerks, that if you’re running larger than stock tires, your speedometer won’t be accurate anyway. I know some folks run a GPS to monitor speed for this reason.

Wandering steering is quite often worn tie rod ends. Grab the drag link and tie rod and try to move them and look for play in the ball joints. Have someone else move the steering wheel while you check for play in the steering components. The steering on these trucks isn’t particularly “tight“ by any modern standard but it shouldn’t wander. Obviously you will also want to check your alignment.

And yes - they are loud, there is no insulation - you’re literally driving around in a hollow metal box. That said, you can always check for things that make them louder, like holes in the exhaust or exhaust leaks at the flanges or gaskets.

What you didn’t mention is how much work you’ve done to the truck - did you restore it, or simply buy it and drive it through inspection? If you just got it, a thorough baseline inspection of brakes, all the joints and ends in the steering, and all the air/fuel delivery should be your first priority.

For what it’s worth - your concerns are normal and without a total baseline on the truck to assure everything is in good working order, your concerns are also warranted. I drove my 40 more or less as I found it about 500 miles in the first 4 years I owned it and most of the were “white knuckling” because the truck simply wasn’t reliable. This year the engine got pulled, I’m hoping when the new engine and rebuild transfercase goes in it will be good to go longer distances.

 

[greenbeasty]

It will all be fine!
Going into first or reverse you need to be setting still, and like Johnny says, slip into another gear , then into first. To downshift into first while rolling, as in a stops in coming up, well.... you just don't. Third to second, the rest is brakes.
The truck will always be loud, it is a beautiful sound! Hold the speed down to 55 or lower, if you want to get somewhere faster, leave earlier.
Good luck, enjoy it, and please do not make a lot of changes to make it more " modern ".
That's what a Tacoma is for.
And keep asking questions! There is a wonderful store of knowledge here.
Frank

 

[redeye]

Thanks guys.

I drove it again around town with my daughter (who was giggling the entire time; she loves it). Odometer is also not working. I like the way those ICON Dakota Digital dash clusters look, so maybe I'll get one with GPS speedometer. LOL. Nah, I'll troubleshoot first before throwing nearly a grand at the issue.

I haven't done anything to the truck yet. I bought it in December, had it shipped, then it sat in my garage. I drove in my driveway but that was it. I did stall it while trying to get it from the shipper's trailer to my driveway, but found that I did not release the parking brake. Duh!

I know nothing about carbs. As in barely spelling it. Certainly a good amount of Mud searching is in my future.

I'm definitely looking forward to baselining it. I've only had 80's and did a lot of basic or maybe work to them. I find the research, planning, laying out of parts, cleaning of parts, assembly, etc. very enjoyable. I'm sure the 40 will be the same.

 

[oregon fj]

No synchro on first means that you don’t just shift into first while the rig is rolling, only at a dead stop. If you must drop into first while moving, you must double-clutch and rev match in neutral before shifting into first. This is a mostly lost art these days, so it is easier for most to simply wait until the truck has come to a full stop.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I noticed your in central jersey. I’m in northern MD, but I’ve got family near Princeton and I’m up that way occasionally for work too - I wouldn’t mind dropping by to give you a hand looking it over if I’m up that way. I don’t know much about Webers but I’ve rebuilt a couple of Quadrajets. At the very least I don’t mind being another set of eyes and hands while checking things over.

 

[brian]

what are the details on the suspension?
loose the weber.
whats the deal on the dissy? still a backwards, points unit?

 

[FJ404345]

Post a picture for us here and just drive it for a couple of times to get used to each other, after that tackle every issue one by one

 

[brian]

the speedo and oddy are driven by the same cable, that is probably broken or missing.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Oh yeah, a 71

Sounds like you need to come up with a plan of attack, which I suspect is what you are doing.

Engine:
On my 71, I chose to follow the advice of Mark’s Offroad and run an OEM Aisan carb with some tweaks. Big tweak is porting the base so you can switch to a vacuum advance dissy. Also, Mark’s helped me install Pertronix. At the time I did that Carb/dissy upgrade, I pulled my manifolds and had a machine shop plane them flat. Installed a new Fel-Pro manifold gasket with the big flame rings. Learned how to do a valve adjustment, now my 47 year old F purrs like a kitten. It no longer sputters when I press the accelerator. Very happy I stuck with the Japanese made dissy & carb. You can do it all yourself or you can Call Mark in Burbank, CA and he’ll send you what you need and offer telephone tech support.

At some point you may want to install a vacuum gauge. I mounted a removable pod on the steering column. I think JohnnyC ran a handhelp type gauge into his cab. I believe if you really want to dial your engine in and know what it is doing, having a gauge is very helpful.

I also did the 2F valve cover upgrade. I was learning how to adjust valves, the improved cover is nice imo.

 

[redeye]

I noticed your in central jersey. I’m in northern MD, but I’ve got family near Princeton and I’m up that way occasionally for work too - I wouldn’t mind dropping by to give you a hand looking it over if I’m up that way. I don’t know much about Webers but I’ve rebuilt a couple of Quadrajets. At the very least I don’t mind being another set of eyes and hands while checking things over.

I'm in Allentown (Monmouth County), approx 20 minutes from Princeton University. Basically if you're heading to the Jersey Shore from Princeton you're guaranteed to pass my town.

 

[redeye]

what are the details on the suspension?
loose the weber.
whats the deal on the dissy? still a backwards, points unit?

Suspension appears stock to me.
I'm fine with getting an Aisin vs Weber. I'm a "stick with OEM" or close to it kind of guy anyway.

No clue on the distributor. Much, or all, of the engine appears stock to me. I've got a binder of records back to ~1997 or so. A full engine rebuild, along with trans/xfer rebuild (I believe) was done in 2001. It starts right up, but does stutter a bit when accelerator is pressed.

 

[redeye]

This pic was taken when it was still down in Texas at the seller's place. Can't wait to remove the top when it gets warm!

 

[redeye]

Oh yeah, a 71

Sounds like you need to come up with a plan of attack, which I suspect is what you are doing.

Engine:
On my 71, I chose to follow the advice of Mark’s Offroad and run an OEM Aisan carb with some tweaks. Big tweak is porting the base so you can switch to a vacuum advance dissy. Also, Mark’s helped me install Pertronix. At the time I did that Carb/dissy upgrade, I pulled my manifolds and had a machine shop plane them flat. Installed a new Fel-Pro manifold gasket with the big flame rings. Learned how to do a valve adjustment, now my 47 year old F purrs like a kitten. It no longer sputters when I press the accelerator. Very happy I stuck with the Japanese made dissy & carb. You can do it all yourself or you can Call Mark in Burbank, CA and he’ll send you what you need and offer telephone tech support.

At some point you may want to install a vacuum gauge. I mounted a removable pod on the steering column. I think JohnnyC ran a handhelp type gauge into his cab. I believe if you really want to dial your engine in and know what it is doing, having a gauge is very helpful.

I also did the 2F valve cover upgrade. I was learning how to adjust valves, the improved cover is nice imo.

I've seen Mark's Offroad mentioned as I've searched the 40 forums over the past few weeks. Sounds like proper stuff.

I stumbled across a local guy who used to race for a living. You'd never know he has 4 or 5 hotrods in his garage, with another in an enclosed trailer. The guy is like 70+ yrs old and undoubtedly chock full of knowledge. I'm considering just driving my 40 over there in the spring and introducing myself. Looking at threads on Mud with pics is awesome. I might need a bit more coaching and help though. I'm a hobbyist AT BEST with a touch of OCD, and sadly not a true mechanic.

I like the idea of removing the valve cover and adjusting the valves. Never done it but I think I can do it.

QUESTION on the carb from Mark - is this a plug and play operation or is some technical know-how needed to install? I've seen the Pertronix stuff but have NO clue on what components are needed. I'm a big phat noob.

It definitely needs a new muffler. Seller told me that and it's extra loud because of that.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Getting a carb from Mark’s would be “plug and know” Meaning install it and you would know that if your rig still isn’t running perfect you have another small detail needing attention. Just keep checking things off the list Personally I would address the manifolds at the same time a rebuild carb is install. I like to have piece of mind I did things as right as I know possible. Your neighbor will know where to take manifolds.

Dissy:
I already had a non-USA dissy when I ordered Pertronix from Mark’s. So I installed it myself. I did have a couple details I wanted confirmation on and Mark was very helpful. I would bet if you buy your vac advance dissy from him he’d set it up with Pertronix if you ask.

Mark has the valve cover I mentioned earlier. Not trying to sell you just want you to know what took me forever to figure out. I probably gave the valve adjustment 4 go’s before I felt my engine was spot-on.

You can leave a message at Mark’s shop any time and he’ll call you back. I think his website says he tries to do his phone orders between 1-4:30pm, that’s when I call. His # ‭1 (818) 953-9230‬.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Forgot to mention, your 71 is sweeet!

With dissy cap removed, If you pull vacuum on the hose attached to the dissy’s vac canister, clockwise rotation of the points plate means your dissy retards timing when vacuum increases. Counter clock rotation will be a vac advance unit(more bueno). As mentioned if you have time for engine bay pics we love pics.

71’s came with a VSV (vacuum switching valve) on the drivers fender. I capped mine on advice from Mark. It’s similar in size to a Red Bull can with 4 nipples.

Last thought. Below your brake booster you should see an external voltage regulator bolted to the firewall. Coolerman told me the two WB (white black-stripe) wires are the most important grounds to have clean. They ground the entire 71 harness.

 

[middlecalf]

Nice looking rig!

...you must double-clutch and rev match in neutral before shifting ...

Whoa, I got really excited there for a minute, then realized I'm on MUD and not the Porsche forum, lol! Double clutching the cruiser, wooohoo! Can't wait till I get the 3-on the tree in the 45 so I can really work the double-clutch and arm dance!

 

[redeye]

Forgot to mention, your 71 is sweeet!

With dissy cap removed, If you pull vacuum on the hose attached to the dissy’s vac canister, clockwise rotation of the points plate means your dissy retards timing when vacuum increases. Counter clock rotation will be a vac advance unit(more bueno). As mentioned if you have time for engine bay pics we love pics.

71’s came with a VSV (vacuum switching valve) on the drivers fender. I capped mine on advice from Mark. It’s similar in size to a Red Bull can with 4 nipples.

Last thought. Below your brake booster you should see an external voltage regulator bolted to the firewall. Coolerman told me the two WB (white black-stripe) wires are the most important grounds to have clean. They ground the entire 71 harness.

I'll try and snap some engine bay pics tomorrow when it's daylight. I've love to get more input on what's what. I noticed what you're describing as the VSV I think. I looked at it and saw two small rubber caps that looked like long nipples.

I'll have to take a short video too. There's a sound like a constantly buzzing bee. Sounds like it's coming from a hose that connects from the carb to the front pass side of the engine (sound at front of engine, not carb side). Strange sound that doesn't appear to belong.

There's definitely some detective work to do. I've noticed at least one wire that goes nowhere and a somewhat shredded cable to nowhere as well. Both close to the firewall. What I really need is some warm weather and to get rid of this evil evil head cold/sinus issue that has been plaguing me for weeks and weeks and weeks. Honestly I feel like all I'm doing is sitting here on Mud, which is what led me to buy the 40 and a bunch of stuff from SOR, and today from SuperBrightLeds.com and City Racer LLC. LOL! My wife is gonna be upset seeing yet MORE boxes show up at the house next week.

 

[tyama]

Ok all,
I finally registered and plated the 40, a 71 FST with F engine & 3 spd trans. I wanted to list my first impressions and get input from other 40 owners on ideas to remedy or general comments.

1) A few times it nearly stalled when taking off in 1st gear. I had to press the clutch in and to get it going again. Any ideas? (Weber carb on this truck)

2) While on the subject of 1st gear, I could not put it into 1st w/o grinding. Now, I've heard the term "not synchronized" for 1st gear but don't know what it really means. Any tips on NOT grinding would be appreciated.

3) Speedometer does not work. Was bummed at this one because the cops in my town will pull you over for doing 27 in a 25. But let's be real, excess speed was never a concern in this truck.

4) Temp gauge does not work.

5) Engine screams. I mean LOUD. This is the oldest vehicle I've ever owned. If this is normal I'll believe you.

6) Steering seems to wander a bit, but I chalked it up to this being a 46 yr old truck and maybe this is totally normal.

Overall, I was oddly stressed out driving it and a tad worried about EVER driving it much farther than a 5 mile radius from my house. Maybe I ought to think about some upgrades or changes to dispel this concern.

-Ed

Hiya, I would agree with what's been said before. I would also add that the clutch should not be too finicky. I like the fj40 clutch better than the one that is in the '96 honda crv we also have.

the first gear is always a pain but you get used to rolling & using 2nd more.

on the speedo, you can check the gage at the cluster itself & also the plastic gear in the Tcase. I found that my Tcase gear was stripped.

it may be that the temp gage is not getting getting current or the temp gage is not showing continuity (bad gage)

the engine should not be so loud at idle. I would check the timing for 650 rpm. I'd also check the vacuum with a gage to see what it looks like. i like the petronix set ups I have in mine fj 40/55 & marks carb rebuilds are great. If your weber seems to be running fine, I'd keep it till you need or really want to switch back to OEM. I have one on the pig & it seems to be fine, even after many years.

Steering wander can be TRE, the center arm, the gear box, caster, etc... it can be a pita to figure out, but important. If you have service records, you can see what part of the steering is the oldest & look at that first.

I hope your stress will abate over time. as you get to know your truck, it gets better. if it was maintained by the PO (which it looks like), it'll get real fun pretty soon.

good luck, ty