1st (for me) Oil Change for my LC

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by TimTX, May 16, 2018.

  1. TimTX

    TimTX

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    My 99 has 253K miles and the PO gave me all the records. I’m up to date on all maintinance...but now I need to get my first oil change. Ive had it about 5K miles and doing a 1K mile road trip this weekend.

    It has conventional, as it was changed at the Ford Dealer I bought it from. Oil (all fluids) was checked by LC mechanic a couple weeks ago and he said it was good.

    I’m thinking High Mileage Mobil 1 with a M1 filter based on the what I’ve read here. Ive had good experience at Toyota dealers using their standard oil/filter. Does the dealer to M1 Synthetic Oil/Filter? Is Toyota Synthetic Oil/Filter OK? Should I find a Mobil 1 Quick Lube around? Or, should I let it go as mechanic said oil is still good?

    How can you look forward to a 1K mile Road Trip in a 19 year old vehicle? Simple, do it in a Land Cruiser! I’ve only put 5K on mine but look for every opportunity to drive it.

    Thoughts?
     
  2. outdoorsman

    outdoorsman

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    Mobil 1 oil 5W-30 is a good choice. You can use a Mobil 1 filter, OEM filter or a Wix filter which is probably better.

    Easy to change yourself but you can get anyone you trust to change it for you.

    With the high mileage I would not stretch the oil and filter changes to far apart.
     
  3. BudgetLC

    BudgetLC

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    I've driven Toyota's for years and learned early on to use OEM filters. Granted, I've never used WIX or Mobil 1 filters but I found the oil pressure always built up faster on startup with the OEM over aftermarket (better back-flow preventer?). I don't know if it holds true for the 4.7 compared to the 4's & 6's in the older Toyota's I've owned but I figure you can't go wrong with Toyota OEM. I usually buy a case of ten online for $30-35 which makes them about as cheap as any other filter I can get.
     
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  4. TimTX

    TimTX

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    Toyota filter...check

    Do I go Synthetic or conventional? Also, Mobil 1 or
     
  5. ibrahim83

    ibrahim83

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    Some might think I'm crazy, but I've developed a rear main seal leak since buying the truck and the only thing different i did was switch to synthetic for 18k

    I've gone back to regular since then and regret messing with that. I even use toyota filters and oil.

    I know others that have used synthetic will no ill effects.
     
  6. biggus

    biggus

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    Unless you have oil leaks do not use high mileage oil unless you plan to use it exclusively in the future as well. The seal conditioners may cause your seals to swell up then shrink causing leaks you wouldn't have had otherwise.

    For a 5k interval a good quality Dino oil is just fine especially with our large sumps. I like Castrol 5w30 magnatech semi synthetic oil. Great price and works as advertised.
     
  7. atnolan94

    atnolan94 Go Pokes! SILVER Star

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    When you go to toyota to get your filter, go ahead and get a new crush washer for the drain plug, and might as well get a new drain plug. It'll be really cheap insurance. I have had some very bad experiences with oil pans getting drained from bad drain plugs and crush washers.
     
  8. 2001LC

    2001LC

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    Do not use High Mileage (HP) OILs, they have petroleum based seal modifiers, that if used for two oil changes (6K to 10K miles) must always be used (like opium to your seals). This is according to Mobil One.

    Mobile One (M1) guarantees your engine when using M1 Extended Performance (EP) provided the M1 EP oil filter is used. It's one of the only oil filters with a synthetic filter element. EP oil is good for 20K miles or 1 year. Personally I never go more than 6K miles with synthetic, or 3K with conventional oils. No oil should be left in engine more than 1 year, no matter how many miles. Conventional filters should not be used more than ~5k miles.

    Toyota OEM oil filters claim to have a check valve in them, IDK. I've not noticed any difference with OEM or M1 filters on start up.

    Notes:
    Synthetic oils don't break down, leaving carbon deposit (gunk) like conventional oil. Synthetics oils & lubes will clean gunk deposit out over time, which may reveal seal in which the plasticizer has leached out (dried up rubber seals). Once gunk cleaned out seals "may" leak (not an issue I've had). AT-205 re-seal can bring them back to life.

    I agree, always replace drain plug gasket (washer).
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2018
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  9. atnolan94

    atnolan94 Go Pokes! SILVER Star

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    Thanks, Forgot Toyota calls it a drain plug gasket :)
     
  10. bamabrock

    bamabrock Ain’t Life Grand SILVER Star

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  11. TimTX

    TimTX

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    At the dealer, going to do a Conventional Oil change. Nothing fancy. I could do it myself but living in apt while building a house makes it tough.
     
  12. udubfl

    udubfl

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    After several years, finally in the position/time to do my own oil change. So, this post has been helpful! Been taking my 01LC to Toyota dealership and when I took the drain plug off this weekend, I was disappointed to see 2 gaskets on the drain plug. I'm guessing 2 is not a good thing. Then, I realized my oil filter was not a Toyota brand but rather "Full" brand. Perhaps "Full" is OEM but I figured it would be Toyota brand since I was at a Toyota dealership (Alamo Toyota in San Antonio). To say the least, not completely surprised but disappointed. Glad doing my own changes now. Before reading this post, I ended up using M1 5w-30 High Mileage. Appreciate the info 2001LC. My LC has 160K miles. I guess i need to make some decision in the next month or so before I go to too far with High Mileage or switch back to regular synthetic.

    YTjFLcOsQrax6gxTXZhhQw.jpg
     
  13. Spike555

    Spike555

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    Here is the thing about dealerships...they are a franchise and they only use OEM filters and fluids for warranty work. I used to sell bulk automotive fluids and fluid recycling services, motor oil and engine coolant is never OEM brand. I cannot speak for the filter, but the filter used on your truck is not OEM.
    Taking your truck to the dealer for an oil change is no different than taking it to a quick lube, the dealer uses college kids to do that kind of thing. Same college kids that work at Valvoline.
    Interns and low level techs do normal maintence and repairs like brakes and tune ups, top level factory trained techs only do warranty work. Nothing else. You won't waste $50/hr on an oil change, that's a $10/hr job.
    That's why there were two washers on your drain plug.
     
  14. bpe3

    bpe3

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    There’s no benefit at all to synthetic vs quality dino oil on 100-series unless you’re planning to drastically exceed the 5,000 mile service interval. I assume no one here is running their handy on a race track.
     
  15. blatant

    blatant

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    Never mind
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2018
  16. BullElk

    BullElk

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    I personally have kept it much simpler the last 24 years of Cruisering. I use conventional Supertech 15W-40 or 20W-50 in older LX's and only change oil when it gets dirty. Have no idea of mileage interval. Not really sure if I am missing anything performance wise or not after the few miles I have driven.
     
  17. 2001LC

    2001LC

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    The list of non OEM parts and not flowing FSM procedure from Dealer maintained rigs that I've found, well, is too long to list. Double oil gaskets is something I find very often. The gasket get stuck on pan and missed when plug installed, no big deal. Hey at least you know they did use a new gasket.

    If just one oil change with HM oil, I'd switch back "today". If two oil change of over ~6K miles interval each, it's recommended by Mobil One to keep using HM.

    BTW: 160K miles, engine is just passed break in period.;)
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2018
  18. udubfl

    udubfl

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    No doubt. 2 is better than none! Its just a shame that Toyota makes a decent product but dealerships can’t maintain it like it suppose to. Glad for this forum.
     
  19. Spike555

    Spike555

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    Actually two can make it leak.

    The dealer didn't tighten the drain plug on my transfer case tight enough and it fell out. T-case drained and grenaded.
    This did not happen to me, it happened to the guy I bought it from, the dealer installed a used one for free and paid for the 200 mile tow bill because he was on his way to his hunting cabin up north.
    I am the second owner of my truck, it was dealer serviced until I bought it.
     
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