1PZ Engine Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 18, 2018
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Location
Beaver, PA
I had another thread going for my 1PZ leaking injection pump which I had rebuilt, and had updated it about how the mechanic I had used to re-install the IP could not get the timing right, and I ultimately had to take it elsewhere. Link to that thread below...


Well, this headache has continued and turned into a whole other animal. I was referred to a local diesel mechanic who is Venezuelan and used to work at a Toyota dealership in VZ before coming to the US and is very familiar with Toyota diesels. He has multiple other 70's in his shop that he's imported. I have no idea how I had never heard of this guy - seems like his primary business is heavy equipment repair but he's a cruiser enthusiast on the side. Anyway, I was lucky to find somebody local who knows their s*** and could pick up where the last shop failed.

Once he got the truck, he checked the injection timing but suspected something else might be wrong upon trying to crank the truck. Timing of everything was right but the truck was fighting to crank. We did a compression test and all 5 cylinders were low. The best was 137 psi, the lowest was only 63 psi...minimum per the service manual is 384 psi...

Long story short, we've since disassembled the engine and found worn or broken piston rings on all 5 cylinders. Additionally, the intake was coated with black oily material. It's our suspicion that the previous mechanic may have been spraying something into the intake (ether?) to try and help the truck crank. Some combination of this material and unburnt diesel likely built up in the pistons from the excessive cranking without firing, and essentially hydro-locked, pushing the liquids past the piston rings and into the oil pan. Further evidence of this was very non-viscous oil once we took the oil pan down, which is probably because the oil had been diluted by a bunch of diesel.

Intake full of black oily crap. I could easily see how this would be abrasive to the piston rings.

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Valves. No apparent issues.
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Cylinders. The bores are smooth and clean. Look really good with the exception of some heat discoloration on the back two cylinders.

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So, obviously we need new piston rings. The dilemma I currently face however is how far to go with rebuilding this engine. Before we even tore into it I had thought about engine swap options, however I like the 1PZ and would rather have a rebuilt 1PZ than a mystery 1HZ. Or something with more power but I'm not quite ready to undertake something like a 1HDT swap; that's more of a long term aspiration. So I want to get the 1PZ running again and make sure it will be reliable for many years to come.

Considering how the rest of the engine seems to be in good health, the mechanic is recommending to just essentially rebuild the top side of the engine in place. Essentially new piston rings, new cam shaft, cam shaft bearings, hand stone piston walls etc. but no other work to the block or crank. This would obviously be the quickest and cheapest option.

The other option is to do a full engine overhaul. Pull the block out of the truck, have everything measured and machined as needed.

Generally I'm the way with cruisers that I would rather spend the extra time/money to do the full overhaul and have the peace of mind of having a fully refurbished engine, however I also don't want to waste my time and money if there's really no reason to.

I think right now I'm leaning toward the in-place rebuild option but also taking the opportunity to replace components on the top of the engine such as valves and springs, etc. I also got the injectors and will be taking those to be adjusted.

Thoughts?
 
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The other option is to do a full engine overhaul. Pull the block out of the truck, have everything measured and machined as needed.


I wouldn't be doing it any other way. Ive lost count of the in chassis rebuilds that only lasted a few months and then the owner is back doing a full rebuild. The in chassis rebuilds were probably ok on 1930s style low compression, low rpm engines. Not today engines.

And Im always wary of mechanics who want to do things like this. I had a female friend with a v6 Buick powered Holden that died from coolant in oil (she kept driving it). Her mechanic quoted her $3000 to repair the 400000 klm engine by replacing damaged parts and labour. I called a reputable engine rebuilder who had done full engine rebuilds for my friends and I. His price was $2800 plus about $500 installation cost with a 3 year unlimited warranty. I had a bit of an argument with her as she didn't comprehend that for another $300, she was getting virtually a new engine. She ended up going somewhere else and paid over $4k and went back 2-3 times to have nuts and bolts properly tightened.
Lesson learned- you can never win with women and cars.
 
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Beginning to build out a parts list and I have a couple questions...

1. Does anybody know all of the individual part numbers that come in 04111-17030 GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL? This kit is out of production it seems but I have found an OEM one on Euro 4x4 parts for around $360. Pricing out some of these individual gaskets/seals however on Partsouq it appears you could probably piece this together with individual parts for much cheaper. The one thing I'm not finding individually is 17198-18010 GASKET, EXHAUST MANIFOLD, NO.2. This is one of those 1PZ specific things that is discontinued... annoying.

2. There are some parts that have "-XX" after their part number and on ToyoDIY the different numbers show as "MARK 1," etc - see below. What do these different variations mean? Just later iterations of the same part? On this example, I only seem to be able to find 11115-18010-05.

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Highly recommend a factory service manual and speaking with a parts specialist like David Stedman in Japan. Japan4x4.com

Mark 1/3/5 are engineering information marks for head gasket thickness. You need to refer to the FSM to figure out which one you need-- it explains how to figure it out.

Things with XX mean that you need to order however many you think you need or you know that you need. It's a generic quantity indicator for "order whatever you need."

Just because it's not on some website does not mean the part number is not available or discontinued.

Places like Partsouq etc sell widgets. You need to speak with a parts professional if you want to do this correctly. 04111-17030 is most definitely still available and comes with the 17198-18010 exhaust gasket.

I highly recommend not just ordering things willy nilly without knowing what you are doing. Just a recommendation.
 
@Onur thanks for clarifying the questions on part numbers. I read the sections of the service manual and it makes sense now for those parts why different thicknesses are available for rebuilds and how that will be determined.

I took your advice and reached out to Dave Stedman. I tend to default to jumping into things like this thinking I will be able to figure it out myself rather than asking for help but working with somebody with experience will definitely be the better bet... I spoke to Dave on the phone and just sent him a list of parts to start looking into. Seems like he will be a huge help.

I think I've pretty well decided I'll go for the full out-of-chassis rebuild. I think I just needed some reassurance from the good people of Mud that that is the right call and I won't be wasting my money... Mud always seems to have a way of making a bigger dent in my wallet, lol.

I will probably wait for Dave to come back with feedback on the parts requested and as long as there's no show stoppers identified, let the mechanic know that he can start pulling the block.
 
Mud always seems to have a way of making a bigger dent in my wallet, lol.

You could always get a quote from Engines Australia. They make some good engine kits, quite popular here and they send it cheap to the US via DHL. They also sell turbo ready pistons and other high performance 1hz 1pz parts for rebuilds. I think most of their kits are around 1200usd.
 
You could always get a quote from Engines Australia. They make some good engine kits, quite popular here and they send it cheap to the US via DHL. They also sell turbo ready pistons and other high performance 1hz 1pz parts for rebuilds. I think most of their kits are around 1200usd.
I actually emailed Engines Australia about 2 weeks ago asking for them to quote a 1PZ rebuild kit. Haven’t heard back.
 
I used Engines Australia on my 13BT rebuild. The kit overall was pretty good although a few of the parts weren't great.

Headgasket - use an OEM MLS headgasket
Intake/Exhaust gasket - use OEM


Most of the bearings and things like that were OEM quality, Taiho etc,
ALFIN pistons
gaskets seemed fine and good quality

Maybe try calling/emailing again, they usually answered all my questions within a day or 2. Definitely make sure you use a competent machine shop. Lots of things can get messed up if not done right or skipped over. Nothing exotic about the 1PZ, as long as they have the specs and attention to detail down, should be good to go.
 
I sent another e-mail to Engine Australia to see what they can offer. I'm hoping to go OEM to the greatest extent possible however if the cost difference is significant then maybe their kit makes more sense, or a hybrid approach.

I also received quotes back from Dave Stedman today for the parts list that I sent him. In general most things are available, with a few exceptions. I knew the camshaft (13501-18010) would be an issue and Dave confirmed it is delisted. Only a couple websites online that list this part for sale - one company in the UAE listed it but I already contacted them and they confirmed they don't have one. I wonder if Engine Australia has a remanufactured or aftermarket camshaft option.

The other funny thing is the 04111-17030 GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL that I mentioned earlier. It is in fact available but the price is ~$550 USD. When I price out all the individual gaskets/seals that I would expect to come in the kit, it comes out to less than $100 USD (still missing 17198-18010 GASKET, EXHAUST MANIFOLD, NO.2 though). Still trying to figure out all the individual part numbers that make up the kit to see if it would be cheaper to just piece it together separately... Maybe Toyota makes that info hard to find for a reason, or just as likely I'm missing some things.
 
I actually emailed Engines Australia about 2 weeks ago asking for them to quote a 1PZ rebuild kit. Haven’t heard back.

Try the international number +61746798590 I dunno where head office is but Sydney has a corona outbreak ATM
 
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This rebuild has been progressing slowly but surely. I decided to go all in on the rebuild and try to replace everything I can and go all OEM. I've worked through sourcing all the parts needed, though some were a challenge.

Dave Stedman was able to translate a reference that he found in Japanese to English to give me a list of all the individual items within 04111-17030 GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL. This was really helpful because buying them individually was about a quarter of the cost of what Toyota was quoting for the kit together (about $555).

New camshaft was also a big challenge. It is de-listed from Toyota and a couple that were listed online that I tried to order didn't actually exist. I managed to find one through a parts supplier in Canada... guessing it was just one of those rare spares that has been hanging around in a warehouse forever.

I've received a few parts that I couldn't get through Dave and most everything else is on order with Dave so I'll be awaiting a big package from Japan. A few of the components that depend upon measured dimensions post-machining are on hold to order once I get the report from the machine shop.

The block is being dropped off at the machine shop today. Based on the appearance of everything I'm expecting it will be mostly cleaning things up, measuring, and minimal machining but we'll wait and see.
 

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