1KZ-TE Reliability? (2 Viewers)

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Newusername

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I've owned a few USDM 90 series over the years, but they were primarily used as back-up vehicles. Never modified them, or really had to do much. So fairly limited LC knowledge, although I'm mechanically inclined. My "overlanding" vehicles, have always been euro based. Getting sick of endless wrenching, so looking at other options.

The 1KZ-TE variant of the Prado, at a quick glance looks appealing. This one looks solid, although unsure if the price is fair? 1996 KZJ95 LC Prado – Japanese Classics - https://www.japaneseclassics.com/vehicle/1996-kzj95-lc-prado/

I'm based in the US, where these were never sold. If kept serviced, are they reliable? If I purchase one, it will immediately get all new fluids, belts & waterpump, radiator, and any suspension piece that is worn. I fully go over everything used that I buy, and start from a solid base point. My use for the truck, would be traveling cross country over a few months. Lots of elevation, and hot weather. In stock form, climbing up decent elevation grades do EGT spike like crazy on these?


Any insight would be appreciated!
 
Perhaps talk to someone like @JDM Journeys who has experience with the KZ engine. I’m sure he can provide you an unbiased opinion. 😊
 
Newusername said:
I've owned a few USDM 90 series over the years, but they were primarily used as back-up vehicles. Never modified them, or really had to do much. So fairly limited LC knowledge, although I'm mechanically inclined. My "overlanding" vehicles, have always been euro based. Getting sick of endless wrenching, so looking at other options.

The 1KZ-TE variant of the Prado, at a quick glance looks appealing. This one looks solid, although unsure if the price is fair? 1996 KZJ95 LC Prado – Japanese Classics - https://www.japaneseclassics.com/vehicle/1996-kzj95-lc-prado/

I'm based in the US, where these were never sold. If kept serviced, are they reliable? If I purchase one, it will immediately get all new fluids, belts & waterpump, radiator, and any suspension piece that is worn. I fully go over everything used that I buy, and start from a solid base point. My use for the truck, would be traveling cross country over a few months. Lots of elevation, and hot weather. In stock form, climbing up decent elevation grades do EGT spike like crazy on these?


Any insight would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
I've put 60k kms on mine now, in Canada, where they were also never sold. And there are many examples around the world with 4 and 500 thousand kms. The JDM auction lineups are full of them...

My opinion is that they are a much more modern platform than the other IDI diesels, and very reliable. I think many of the "guaranteed" head problems stem from both the earlier LJ and the previous 1KZ without the intercooler. Heat management, like on any indirectly injected 4 cylinder boosted diesel, is paramount. But if it has been looked after, kept maintained, and driven with a modicum of sense, my experience is it is up there with Toyota's best. Just modern enough to achieve good driveability and efficiency, but old enough to be pre-DEF, and without injectors that cost a king's ransom.

I do think these are a better match to a manual trans, but that's pretty subjective. Let's just say having even more heat added to the system isn't optimum if you don't have to. Fitting an EGT guage though, is a must for any turbo diesel, I think, esp at altitude. Its easier to bleed off high pyro temps with a manual trans, but as long as you know where that overdrive button is, and are prepared to use it when necessary, AND you teach your right foot some manners, you shouldn't be imitating Humpty Dumpty with your cylinder head anytime soon.

Keeping the intake track clear of EGR soot is also important, since this machine did recycle its exhaust gases, which build up over time unless you fit a catch can or delete the egr (I'm not a proponent of emissions deletion if at all possible, and in this case it can effect the idle).

In all other respects, this truck has the reliability of a 4Runner, with an even beefier frame. Parts outside the engine and body panels are pretty much 4Runner. So that means that in addition to the head cracking every 10k kms, your lower balljoints will collapse. 😂 Or you can just change them at sensible intervals and continue to enjoy the rig for years to come.
 
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JDM Journeys said:
I've put 60k kms on mine now, in Canada, where they were also never sold. And there are many examples around the world with 4 and 500 thousand kms. The JDM auction lineups are full of them...

My opinion is that they are a much more modern platform than the other IDI diesels, and very reliable. I think many of the "guaranteed" head problems stem from both the earlier LJ and the previous 1KZ without the intercooler. Heat management, like on any indirectly injected 4 cylinder boosted diesel, is paramount. But if has been looked after, kept maintained, and driven with a modicum of sense, my experience is it is up there with Toyota's best. Just modern enough to achieve good driveability and efficiency, but old enough to be pre-def, and without injectors that cost a king's ransom.

I do think these are a better match to a manual trans, but that's pretty subjective. Let's just say having even more heat added to the system isn't optimum if you don't have to. Fitting an EGT guage though, is a must for any turbo diesel, I think, esp at altitude. Its easier to bleed off high pyro temps with a manual trans, but as long as you know where that overdrive button is, and are prepared to use it when necessary, AND you teach your right foot some manners, you shouldn't be imitating Humpty Dumpty with your cylinder head anytime soon.

Keeping the intake track clear of EGR soot is also important, since this machine did recycle its exhaust gases, which build up over time unless you fit a catch can or delete the egr (I'm not a proponent of emissions deletion if at all possible, and in this case it can effect the idle).

In all other respects, this truck has the reliability of a 4Runner, with an even beefier frame. Parts outside the engine and body panels are pretty much 4Runner. So that means that in addition to the head cracking every 10k kms, your lower balljoints will collapse. 😂 Or you can just change them at sensible intervals and continue to enjoy the rig for years to come.
Click to expand...


Glad to hear some real world experience. Again, this would be used for a multi month trip across the country. I used a 300TDI LR last year. Fully went through everything in the engine prior to leaving. EGT were the only problem of the trip. Pretty much any mountain climb, I would have keep it locked in 2nd or 3rd gear, at 30-45 mph to keep the EGT in a safe range.

Considering the 1kz-te is larger displacement, makes more power & tq. Hopefully it's not as sensitive. One drawback, would be my significant other cannot drive manual, so automatic would be my choice. Any idea if they come with a trans cooler stock?

The timing belt looks easy to do, and pretty much everything on the engine. Overall, these seem exactly what I'm looking for!

Not that it really matters, but any idea what sorta MPG you're getting?


Thanks!
 
I *think* there's a trans cooler. But others can confirm.

Timing belt was super easy.

I live at 1100m and average 10.3L/100km, mostly highway (almost 23 US-mpg). This truck (in a manual) seems happiest right on the speed limit of 110kmh. Above that and fuel econ starts to drop a little.

When I was searching for mine, the manuals were extremely hard to find, so you're actually increasing your chances of finding a pristine unit by looking at autos. And OD is likely at lower rpm on the highway too, which is a bonus.

In terms of egt, compared to other JDM diesels I've had in the past, the oem exhaust seems a bit more free flowing? This is purely anecdotal, but it appears to scavenge effectively, and there's a distinct whistle at the tailpipe that is usually more muted in small turbo diesels. May be nothing, but sure sounds cool!

A few quirks... Aussie folks in particular complain about a dash rattle. Mine doesn't have it yet, but some fashion a bracket to stabilize it.

Rear strut towers on the LWB are impossible to access apparently. Also, LWBs didn't get the factory round lights.
Shortie for the win? 😂

I already mentioned the EGR. But just to reiterate, even at 105k kms my intake was coated. Definitely something to look at...
 
Hi
I have had three 95's now. Two KZJ's and one RZJ gasser. I put over 200,000 kms on the first '96 KZJ95 in all conditions including towing a trailer at high altitudes in 40 deg temps with no issues. I am very particular about the maintenance on my Toyo babies. On the 1KZ-TE's I do the water pump, timing belt, valve clearance,tensioner, belts, rad cap and all fluids right away when I first buy them then every 100,000 K. Keeping the revs up under load in the heat I think is the trick for long head life.
From my experience with four Prado's over the last 15 years (#1 was a LZJ78 ...good truck.. bad engine) they are an awesome machine and the KZJ90/95 stands out for sure. I haven't had a manual trans but have no complaints with the auto. They share some 4Runner, Tacoma and Sequoia suspension and brake parts which is nice.
As JDM Journeys said the 1KZ-TE is a good old diesel and can go 500-600,000 k easy with some basic TLC.
I use about 12 or 13L/100k and don't baby it with 285/70/17's (33x12)

Cheers
K.
 
Ozark80 said:
So if not the 1KZ-TE, is there a more reliable option if you wanted a 4 cylinder Toyota diesel?
Click to expand...
The 1kz-TE was superseded by the 1kd, which I've no experience with. Supposedly an issue with injector seals that needs to be looked after... it's also more complicated, and with zero dealer support in North America, I prefer the simpler 1kz.
 
Like any other Toyota they just need good regular maintenance proper fluids and filters and someone who knows what there looking for when it comes to issues. Ours is 20 years old and is still the family's main drive has 436 000 odd k's on it and still going strong no major repairs other than new radiator. Just look after them and they'll serve you well.
 
“Like any other Toyota they just need good regular maintenance proper fluids and filters and someone who knows what there looking for when it comes to issues”. ……. and knows how to regulate their right foot. 😊
 
Hi. I`ve had a automatic transmission KZJ95 (1KZ-TE) as my DD the last 10 years. They have a good reputation over here (Norway) but you have to be aware of as mentioned, a few issues, even if it`s serviced well:
- Heads cracks. Intercooler and a fanclutch service is often very preventive.
- Lower balljoints do fail, change them before they do and use originals.
- The radiator have an internal transmission cooler in the bottom. Either the fluids mix inside or the inlet pipe located in the bottom fall of and and the transmission oil spills. The last happens due to road salt. Change it or mount a separate cooler and just connect the inlet/outlet of the cooler so if it wears on the inside the cooling water doesnt emty itself through the open pipes.

Last year I changed my KZJ95 with a KDJ120 which now serves as my DD. Different engine with different challenges. The commonrail engine (1KD-FTV) is a little beast. Since it was hard parting with my 95 after all those years I also bought a `95 manual transmission 4-Runner with the simpler 1KZ-T engine.
 
saw said:
Hi. I`ve had a automatic transmission KZJ95 (1KZ-TE) as my DD the last 10 years. They have a good reputation over here (Norway) but you have to be aware of as mentioned, a few issues, even if it`s serviced well:
- Heads cracks. Intercooler and a fanclutch service is often very preventive.
- Lower balljoints do fail, change them before they do and use originals.
- The radiator have an internal transmission cooler in the bottom. Either the fluids mix inside or the inlet pipe located in the bottom fall of and and the transmission oil spills. The last happens due to road salt. Change it or mount a separate cooler and just connect the inlet/outlet of the cooler so if it wears on the inside the cooling water doesnt emty itself through the open pipes.

Last year I changed my KZJ95 with a KDJ120 which now serves as my DD. Different engine with different challenges. The commonrail engine (1KD-FTV) is a little beast. Since it was hard parting with my 95 after all those years I also bought a `95 manual transmission 4-Runner with the simpler 1KZ-T engine.
Click to expand...
Are Toyota diesels very popular in Norway? Is there much of an off-roading scene?
 
Yes and yes :)
I`dont do much off-roading myself but love the reliability and of course the looks of old LC, 4-Runners and Hi-Lux.
 
No you are correct Mr. It`s a lot of restrictions here too. Nonetheless a lot of people have an interest in off-roading, overlanding, dirt-bikes, adventure-bikes, rallying etc. Guess it`s more common to have that kind of interest if you don`t live in a city, and up here many people still live on the country side.
 
1kz's only problem is cracking heads if the cooling system is not upto mark - keep the system neat and clean, radiator fan clutch good and its shroud should be perfectly placed and sealed, on these old toyotas there is usually gunk on the bottom of the radiators so a new rad will be a good idea.
Apart from the head cracking - which happens only when the cooling system is ****ed up somehow, ie low coolant, air or a bad radiator / fan - otherwise these engines are rock solid.

90 series are prone to front LCA ball joint failures, the only fix is a new Toyota ball joint.

Steering rack mounts are another failure point, replacing them with polyurethane mounts is one good upgrade - improves steering responsiveness too.
 
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