1KZ-T swap? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

umm, compare apples to apples. you can not compare south american or europe with the costs of living in North America (the land of the gouge tax)

the head is a bare head
unless you are skilled you need to take the head to a shop to transfer the valves and set them.
you need a gasket kit
labor is between $60/hr up to $110/hr
14 hours labour (book)

to buy a head is the cheap part.

disclaimer: this is in Canada and the US, other countries might do it cheaper...
disclaimer two: if you do it yourself you can save money

how come i am getting the feeling similar to "i can install a V8 into a cruiser for $1500" rant...?
 
Wayne strikes again. Probably replaced too many heads on his own dime as it is, no? :) It's like a house renovation, take what you think it's going to cost (on paper) and add about 20% or so.
 
Those are nice engines .. sure .. but IMOP why to buy and engine that you already know come from factory with head issues . ?

I just choose buy another engine with good reputation and be ready to solve problems if they come .. on a 1KZ-T you must be ready with the money and other car ( if is your DD ) when they head fly out .
 
This head cracking business has certainly gotten my attention. I had an old Isuzu Trooper gas 4cyl, another engine notorious for cracked heads. I made it to about 170k before that one cracked on me. I think it took regular wheeling in the cold mountains of Montana to finally crack it up. Cost me a $1500 to have fixed. I expect it would cost more for the 1KZ because of it being an odd duck. $4k sounds a bit high, but I won't be surprised if it's right.

Regardless, calculating a possible head job and inconvenience is souring my enthusiasm for this low miles smooth diesel.

My driving is mostly DD dog and kiddie hauling to the park. For the last few years the only time I have gotten to use 4-wheel drive is a few camping trips in the summer and a few trips to the ski hill in the winter. Though I dream of a little lift and 33s so I can join in on the local cruiser trail rides and wheeling out to even more remote areas for camping and hunting trips. I certainly don't want to loose compression on 1 of 4 cylinders due to a cracked head while deep in the forest with wife, baby, dog, canoe, and gear in tow....

I've also heard that the R151, which I think is the auto tranny that came with these, is poorly suited for heavy Land Cruisers. Can anyone corroborate this with experience?
 
I've also heard that the R151, which I think is the auto tranny that came with these, is poorly suited for heavy Land Cruisers. Can anyone corroborate this with experience?

The R151 is a manual 5 speed that was also used in Hilux/4runner. Its used behind the 1PZ and 1HZ in various 7x series.
 
the R151 and R141 are in my PZJ70s. the R151 is in my summer driver and is an okay tranny. no trouble so far but ENS Toyota Industrial do not like that tranny behind the 1HZ for hard everyday use. the H55F is much better.
the R141 came in the ENS Toyota Industrial PZ mine trucks. i have a used one in my winter DD/off road abuse truck. it is holding up. the gearing is identical to the H55F (without the O/D) and although i like the tranny enough to buy a brand new crate tranny i still like the H55F better.

depending on your driving style the R141 R151 will do you fine.
the head will seldom crack in the bush and leave you stranded. it might crack in the bush under heavy load and dump you on hte highway though. most likely it will crack on the highway and leave you stranded, pucking its guts out on the side of the road, a few hundred km from home just so you can add a nice tow bill to the equation...

on the other hand, you might get 400K out of it with no issues at all...

as Clint would say "you feel lucky punk? well do yah?"
 
I've been burned enough with random car troubles in the last year that I think my luck has run out.

So if the R151 is the manual for these, what is the auto? How does it hold up?
 
autos?
in the past i was impressed, recently i changed my mind unless you spend for the shift kit and aux coolers...
 
so the KZT engines do have a history of head issues. I was not aware of that, everyone over at toyota diesel seem pleaed as punch with them. Possibly no one has been running them long enough yet. That, and those who import them claim "bullet proof" reliability. Just like the "unsinkable" titanic, I guess...
 
these are probably the same importers that claim the 2LT(E) head issues can be cured with a new head gasket... or better yet are still telling their potential customers the head issue is a myth...
 
aint that the truth. Best success I've heard of is a 2LTE with a 3L head, but even still...
 
Saw this thread and thought I'd pitch in... I just swapped a 1KZ-TE into my 92 Toyota Pickup. It is a nice little engine. I did what a few others have done and swapped the electric injection pump out for a manual one. The electric pump definitely makes the engine livelier, but I don't like all the sensors. I have not turned the fueling up on the manual pump yet.

As to the head cracking issues, nobody on ToyotaDiesel.com has had it happen yet, but then nobody has put more than 10k miles on their engine yet. Fact is, it's an aluminum head. On a diesel, I much prefer a cast iron head, but I decided to take the risk.

There's no difference between the head of a 1KZ-T and a 1KZ-TE for any given year. I would expect the 1KZ-T to be a little more reliable because they should typically be run with a little less advance than then electric ones - that's just a guess, though. I know 1KZ-TEs went into some vehicles with a different head (the Prado maybe). These engines did have a different head with longer valves. I don't know if the heads on these were more reliable or not.

IMO, if you want reliability, look for a diesel with a cast head. Don't get me wrong, I'm not down on 1KZ. But it is a fact that they are known to have head issues.

-john
 
one would have to upgrade the suspension pretty massively.

Probably less than installing a big front winch.
I have a 400kg diesel engine in my 4wd (none of it is toyota though). What do the B series weigh?
 
i think it's about the same. i know of two 3B into hilux, and they both put a landcruiser front axle in. raddcruisers did one.
 
1KZT-E cracked head.

a customer with a 1993 surf just cracked the head last week,it is a 1KZTE,the head is around $1700 canadian,plus head gasket,headbolts,valve grind gasket set,T belt,parts alone is almoet $2500 canadian,anyone know where the Toyota part number for thr head??
simon
TLC import connection
Winnipeg
 
a 3B weighs in at just shy of 800 lbs and with the H55F instead of the lightweight R151 you can add another 75 lbs, larger rad, larger alternator and vacuum pump, etc it i will be an easy 1000 lbs.

for the 4hummer i would suggest sticking with the gasser engine.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom