1HZ-T into 64 FJ-40 (1 Viewer)

[beanz2]

I can't go with a 70 rear end, I've already RB the rear end. Wish I could though. Now how do I find a pedal and hand throttle for a 70?

If your rear axle is a FF from a 40, the rebuilt hubs will fit a 70 FF. If it is a SF, you can always try to find a buyer on the classified section

The same guys who sold you the engine, G&S, will be able to source a 70 pedal and hand throttle. There other guys you also ask here, tlcruiserman, bcon, etc.

Dave

 

[guenther65]

No it isn't a FF. I just had the pumpkin replaced and the housing overhauled. It is just that I don't have 2 grand for a 70 rear end. I dream of 70 series front and rear w/ lockers. Only a dream. Is there any other way to set up the parkbrake? Thanks guys for all the info.

Michael

 

[Jim_Hbar]

Hmmmmm......

I NEED one of those 1HD-T set-ups also!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Plez Santa Plez!!!

 

[bcon]

Who charges 2k for a 70 rear? Get a FF and slap your rebuilt 40 center in, then slide the 70 axles in, then rebuild the 70 hubs($100) and you have a rebuilt 70 FF for just over a quarter of what you think and have the parking brake problem solved properly and your wish of 70 stuff.... Just an idea and I am not trying to spend your money but I dont think 2k is anywhere near what it would cost assuming you build it and do the perches your self. Thanks Eric

 

[crushers]

even easier yet is getting a 82-84 *J40 series SF rear diff and it is a straight bolt in. you can run the emergency brake from eaither the tunnel or on the floor beside the drivers seat...
cheers

 

[70sguy]

Who charges 2k for a 70 rear?

2K? I am assuming that you are talking a Cable locked 70FF? If you could still find any. Unobtanium these days.
I have a brand new J80 12v electric locking Diff that I can stick in a J7FF for you for that price.

Sheldon

 

[70sguy]

Wow Sheldon, that is purty! May I ask if it was possible to ceramic coat the turbine part of the turbo too?

Dave

Yup, it adds a bit to the cost but it can be done. Basically, when the turbo is mid rebuild, we have to run the turbine parts to the Ceramic coater and then return them to the Turbo shop.. so it adds some $ for ceramic and the Reman work. Apparently the Rice racers are getting their hot side turbine parts coated in and out... zoom zoom


Sheldon

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Yup, it adds a bit to the cost but it can be done. Basically, when the turbo is mid rebuild, we have to run the turbine parts to the Ceramic coater and then return them to the Turbo shop.. so it adds some $ for ceramic and the Reman work. Apparently the Rice racers are getting their hot side turbine parts coated in and out... zoom zoom


Sheldon

Your other diesel is NOT a locomotive. Locomotives are electric powered Mr.!!!!! Bah ha ha.

 

[rutbeer]

What are you planning on doing with the rear driveshaft length? I have heard it gets pretty short back there. I seem to recall David Tay doing this swap some time back and he ran into issues with the tunnel clearance and the rear driveline length.

 

[PVCruiser]

Is there any other way to set up the parkbrake?
Michael

Yes, I run an H55 with a split case on my FJ-55 and I have a parking brake. Just get a split case parking brake kit. I sell them, SOR sells them, etc. On Oz models like the HJ-47 they had a split case, with a parking brake on the split case. I think the kit is around $400. I'm sure, if you search long and hard enough, you can find one for next to nothing.

I'm going to OZ in less than a month. I can see about digging up some used parts for you. PM me

So you can keep your rear end and just rebuild the split case.

HTH

Seth

 

[crushers]

on the 40 sereis you will need to relocate the crossmember back, plus with the H55F you will run into a problem with the rear driveshaft. the H55F leaves you 2" of pipe with a CV driveshaft and the rear t/case ebrake will cause more problems...
cheers

 

[rutbeer]

So is the problem the H55F or the H55F with the 6 cylinder? In other words, would you still have the problem on a B series motor with the 5 spd? I was thinking the BJ42 came with a 5spd and I can't imagine the stock driveshaft being that short.

 

[beanz2]

I managed to fit an even longer NV4500 + Advance Adapter + split case + transfer parking brake + double cardan shaft in a 40 without moving the rear axle back. But then it has a Chev 350 Yes, the rear axle tubing was basically a stub of steel.

Yes, the 83 BJ42 managed to fit it all in.

Dave

 

[crushers]

So is the problem the H55F or the H55F with the 6 cylinder? In other words, would you still have the problem on a B series motor with the 5 spd? I was thinking the BJ42 came with a 5spd and I can't imagine the stock driveshaft being that short.

yes the 83-84 came with the H55F and NO CV driveshaft rear and yes you can run a CV rear driveshaft with the stock H55F setup with exactly 2" of pipe.
if you do not run the CV then that will give you aprox another 5" of pipe to play with but you will also end up with a steep driveshaft angle with the split case e-brake. if you are not going for any lift then you MIGHT be okay...

 

[crushers]

I managed to fit an even longer NV4500 + Advance Adapter + split case + transfer parking brake + double cardan shaft in a 40 without moving the rear axle back. But then it has a Chev 350 Yes, the rear axle tubing was basically a stub of steel.

Yes, the 83 BJ42 managed to fit it all in.

Dave

most SBC conversions i have seen have relocated the tranny ahead about 4", hence the problem with the shifter and the heater core...

 

[Tapage]

I thought the real problem start with the lift .. if you plan go with a big lift .. the SWB is a issue that you need take in mind.

 

[70sguy]

Your other diesel is NOT a locomotive. Locomotives are electric powered Mr.!!!!! Bah ha ha.

And where do you think the electricity to run the traction motors comes from....
My A$$? I guess those 3000 gallon tanks are just for decoration then.

Sheldon

 

[guenther65]

Could I go with a 60 rear w/ Pbrake? I don't plan on lifting it more than the 2.5" the OME already did. What kind of problems will I run into if my rear driveshaft is short? Will it blow up down the line? I plan on using her for daily driving and backroad trail running. No rolling backwards down a hill for me.

 

[beanz2]

Sure. Just know that the tires will stick out more past the fenders.

The problem with a short driveshaft is the angle it has to operate. If you are running a non-DC shaft, the U-joint angles are more severe the shorter the shaft gets since you need to run the pinion and transfer output shafts at a parallel. If you run a DC shaft, you can point the pinion at the transfer output, but the DC assembly itself takes precious length.

I think if you run a 1HZ/H55/BF1A you should be OK especially if you can find a rear axle with a built in parking brake. Worse come to worst, you can put Eldorado calipers on the rear axle, but then why bother staying with a Toyota diesel at that point. GO CHEVY ALL THE WAY and "Git 'er done"!!!!

Dave

 

[beanz2]

most SBC conversions i have seen have relocated the tranny ahead about 4", hence the problem with the shifter and the heater core...

You must be thinking of SM420/SM465 swaps there, Wayne. The NV4500 is a very different transmission, much longer than the older 4 speeds and the shifter even exits behind the original H42 shifter.

Dave