1hz rear main seal housing looks incorrect/offset. (1 Viewer)

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Oct 31, 2020
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melbourne
Hi all, I'm doing a rear main seal on my 1hz, but seal housing looks incorrect, (see pics, can see gap at top) motor is second hand and has leaked from word go. Was wondering if 1hdt and 1hz have differences in crank or bearings causing 1hz crank to sit lower. If so i will order correct housing and prob solved. Any help would be much appreciated as have all parts and hit a wall with this seal.
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Try posting in the diesel forum, you will get better help.

To me it looks like the seal is rolled. Does that crank have a spacer like the 1FZ?

One trick I do is find an old plastic yogurt container or whatever and use it to guide the seal on the crank so the lip does not roll. You can use brake clean as a lube if you need it because it will dry pretty quick.

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Yeah you want the seal flush with the retainer ring all the way around. In your second picture, the bottom part of the seal is too far forward on the crankshaft. I found it easiest to put a little FIPG on the outside edge of the seal, install the seal in the retainer ring outside of the vehicle, and let the FIPG set. Also put a little grease on the seal lip. Then install the entire assembly on the crankshaft. Otherwise it was very difficult to get the seal flush.
 
Don't put anything on the seal or the outside of the seal. That's a horrible idea! Hence why I said to use brake clean, it will evaporate and not cause you issues down the road.

Use a piece of pvc or the old seal to tap in the new one evenly. Make sure the lip does not fold. If there is a groove in the crank, tap it in a little farther so it won't ride on the groove.
 
Don't put anything on the seal or the outside of the seal. That's a horrible idea!

Ummm, no it's not. A little FIPG on the outside of the seal and a little grease on the seal lip is perfectly fine. Can you please explain why you think that is a horrible idea?
 
Thanks for replys, seal isn't rolleed its like the housing is offset hard to capture in pictures. I measured seal and is even all round, and when putting oon crank sits correctly until seat housing then gets pushed up.
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I can’t really see the problem from the pictures, but I will take your word for it. If there is a gap at the top between the seal surface and the crank and it looks like the crank is sitting low in relation to the seal holder, there are only two possibilities: The crank is in fact low because of bearing wear or the seal holder is off center. Does the crank have any up and down play? If not take the seal holder off and look for some dimensional incompatibility.
 
I can’t really see the problem from the pictures, but I will take your word for it. If there is a gap at the top between the seal surface and the crank and it looks like the crank is sitting low in relation to the seal holder, there are only two possibilities: The crank is in fact low because of bearing wear or the seal holder is off center. Does the crank have any up and down play? If not take the seal holder off and look for some dimensional incompatibility.
Thanks for reply I tried crank but couldn't move it, also engine ran smoothly. Definitely think its the holder, but not sure if just wrong one.
 
Remove seal from holder and reinstall. Then mount a dial indicator on the crank flange and check for concentricity with the holder bore. A dial indicator won’t lie. If you don’t have access to a dial indicator, try a drill as a spacer and a feeler gage in between the drill and the crank flange. It will probably be accurate to 0.1 mm or better.
 
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Remove seal from holder and reinstall. Then mount a dial indicator on the crank flange and check for concentricity with the holder bore. A dial indicator won’t lie. If you don’t have access to a dial indicator, try a drill as a spacer and a feeler gage in between the drill and the crank flange. It will probably be accurate to 0.1 mm or better.
Thanks for reply, it doesn't come out on pictures very good but you can see crank is not in center of seal housing by a few mil.
 
How long did you run this motor previously? almost seems like the freaking crank would have to be bent, that would not go unnoticed though lol.
 
How long did you run this motor previously? almost seems like the freaking crank would have to be bent, that would not go unnoticed though lol.
Thanks for reply, i don't think it's the crank, i actually got through to toyota parts and guy was very helpful, checked part numbers of housing, compared to 1hd motor and even cross referenced with 100 series, all part numbers the same so think I'm gonna just put it together as is, hope doesn't wreck my new clutch.
 
Try posting in the diesel forum, you will get better help.

To me it looks like the seal is rolled. Does that crank have a spacer like the 1FZ?

One trick I do is find an old plastic yogurt container or whatever and use it to guide the seal on the crank so the lip does not roll. You can use brake clean as a lube if you need it because it will dry pretty quick.

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Hi mate, sorry for late reply, just wondering what the second picture is here, looks like the end of the my crank shaft but separated, isn't that part of the crank or is it taper fitted somehow?
 
The 1fz had that spacer that comes off. Not sure about your engine
 

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