1HZ in a 1978 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Blackknight1

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 4, 2021
Threads
7
Messages
484
Location
Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Hey,
I have owned a 1978 fj40 since 1995. Thing came in with a 2 F engine and a 3 speed (non USA version) .
Did a cheap first renovation soon after getting it and drove it around for a few years sat for a few years after blowing the head gasket ' then one day , I decided to fully restore it. I redid the body work , added a Weber, DUI ignition, a header and best of all, upgraded the transmission to an H55F. Looked good. I loved it but in 2010 I got a new Hilux , so the cruiser got parked and got zero attention since.
My eldest son wanted it since it belonged to his grand father . So I gave it to him and a few months ago, I decided to bring it back to its glory days and did a full rebuild . The 2f was low milage since the last rebuild , so I thought it would not be necessary to go thru that expense again, so I started it' let it run a few minutes and left it alone while I redid everything else.
I fabricated front and rear bumpers,repainted both the engine, the h55 and the diffs. We put everything back on, did the electric and went to start the engine...... nothing ! He'll, the darn thing would not even turn over !!!!
We pulled it out of the truck (again) and took it apart. Turns out that it wasn't so well internally and would end up breaking down soon enough down the line..... looked up parts, then I decided to give up on the rebuild idea.
Found a 1hz and decided to the that route.
Before jumping in , I spent hours reading up on performing this swap on this forum and others, analyzed the pros and cons and took the dive.
Let me tell you thT it is an expensive endeavor.
The engine costed me 6500.00 by itself .
Then I read here that I had to find a bell housing suitable for that engine and tranny combo.... got a first one that would not fit the H55. Got the right one with the fork and bearing . The rest is history.
A lot of the info I found online claimed that it was necessary to switch the input shaft from the h55. In my observation so far it is quite an easy swap if you have the right parts .
It became clear to me that the input shaft DID NOT NEED TO BE SWITCHED FROM CORSE SPLINE TO FINE SPLINE.
The pressure plate and disc from the 2f motor are the same size as the 1hz's and fit PERFECTLY
I went thru the trouble of dismantling my danm transmission to switch a shaft that did not need to be swapped.
When I upgraded to the h55f, I used a 3f bellhousing . This would not mount to the 1hz engine but . in my case the rest worked just fine and bolted right up without a fuss.
I had already purchased a brand new Aisin clutch kit , which I had never even succeeded at starting the car with and was relieved to not have to buya new kit for the diesel. Here are some pics.
I can continue posting this write up if it's of any interest to anyone else.

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Ok. So , since I had gone ahead of myself and unnecessarily changed my input shaft from the H55F tranny, I was gonna have to buy a new clutch kit .
I sent the brand new disc i had purchased to a shop down here which had the corse flange and they took it apart and re installed all the components on the old 1hz clutch disc with the fine flanges. Mounted the pressure plate ... tightened to specs.... good to go !

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love it
 
Salut Blacknight1!
Great job so far, thanks for sharing with the community!

What about the motor/gearbobox mounts (front and rear)?
Do the the factory/stock 2F mounts fit, or you have to fabricate some custom ones?
 
Hello,

Looking good.





Juan
 
Interesting on the clutch disc similarities. So what pressure plate did you end up using? I would not be surprised if the diesel pressure plate has more clamping force
 
Salut Blacknight1!
Great job so far, thanks for sharing with the community!

What about the motor/gearbobox mounts (front and rear)?
Do the the factory/stock 2F mounts fit, or you have to fabricate some custom ones?
Salut,
Not by any means trying to say that others who have done this swap were wrong. It is possible that what they got to perform their swaps was different and required different parts.
I felt it was important to let everyone know that in the end this is quite straight forward and prevent others from wasting time and money.
 
Bonjour Blackknight1,

did I understand well: the existing factory mounts (front and rear) did fit for the new engine?

Or they did not, so you had to fabricate new custom made parts?

PS. It is clear to me that you, probably, have to do it in respect to the drive shafts
 
Last edited:
Bonjour Blackknight1,

did I understood well: the existing factory mounts (front and rear) did fit for the new engine?

Or they did not, so you had to fabricate new custom made parts?

PS. It is clear to me that you, probably, have to do it in respect to the drive shafts
I am not sure yet. I was supposed to install the engine on the truck yesterday but did not have the time to do it.
Trying to get that done today. I'll post pics and observations while doing it. Thanks for your interest.
 
Got a lot done today. We finally succeeded at pulling off the passenger side engine bracket from the chassis.
I figured the best way to install the engine/ transmission/ transfer case combo was all at once. We removed the transmission's crossmember and the sucker went right in.
I must say again that it is HEAVY..... so much so that the rubber filler cap from the engine hoist popped out during the operation and simply disappeared. Needless to say that it pissed hydronic fluid all over the danm place and the cap even after hours of 5-6 people looking for it , was never found again.
So I had to fix the danm hoist in a more definitive manner. We brazed a 13 mm nut right on top of the filler hole and cut the matching bolt to use as a plug. Wrapped it up with some Teflon tape.... refilled the ram , bled the air out and we were back in business.
That was easy and fast once I thought of it and it pissed me off that whomever makes those things preferred using that little push in rubber cap .....
Anyway, back to the install.
I noted that the old engine mounting brackets fromthe chassis had to be removed first
1) Because they were placed too far forward. The 2f brackets are placed all the way in the front while the 1hz's are quite a few inches further back.
2) The engine and tranny went in unobstructed by anything.
We simply pushed it into place.
Next, we installed the crossmenber and the rubber mount back in their original spot and bolted it in place. This helped us determine exactly where the mounting brackets should go.
Looks like the frame brackets and rubber mounts might work just fine too..... I'll know for sure today but we did a loose mock up and it looks like it all works just fine. Here are some pics.

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And some more.
In these pictures, you can see the engine brackets (original 1HZ), the rubber mounts (2F) and the frame brackets(78 fj40) . The engine needs to come down a bit, but it looks like once that is done, it will all work as if no one had ever messed with it. Works for me ! I'm happy !

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And some more.
In these pictures, you can see the engine brackets (original 1HZ), the rubber mounts (2F) and the frame brackets(78 fj40) . The engine needs to come down a bit, but it looks like once that is done, it will all work as if no one had ever messed with it. Works for me ! I'm happy !

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Ok. We installed the engine today. After carefulexamination, THE FRAME BRACKETS WILL NOT WORK. The engine sat too low and that inch or so too low completely modified the angle.
I built some new ones out of 3/16 gauge sheet metal and welded them on.
The drive shafts kept the original lengths.
I had a JT Outfitters power steering conversion on the truck and while I loved the PS, it was plagued with bump steer. I have an Fj60 sitting in the shop's yard with no hope of ever touching it again, I scavenged the steering system out of it and will install it on the 40 after rebuilding it.

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Have not posted much about this swap in a while but all is going well. While I was swappingthe engine , I decided to upgrade the steering to a fj80 power unit. Looks good and I am confident that I'll have a lot less bump steer than I ever did with the JT OUTFITTERS set up. Here are some pics of the progress.

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When I installed the engine cooling fan on the engine , the radiator was not on yet.
We installed the radiator and of course a problem arose..... the lower hose went right thru the fan blades..... this would clearly not work for obvious reasons .
I could use an electric fan but that did not seem appealing to me.
Next best thing is to lower the radiator down a few inches.
For this , we removed the radiator core supports and made new ones out of 3/16 gauge sheet metal. I offset the radiator a bit to the passenger side.
Seems like the OE fan shroud will not work. I'll have to fabricate something for it..
 

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