I recently set up the 1HZ engine I removed from my old 2002 HZJ105 on a stand so I can run it, and do some work on it.
105 series 1HZ have a smart RFID key and an engine Imobilizer module on the injector pump fuel cut solenoid.
For me to start the engine out of the chassis, I needed to eliminate the immobilizer module.
I searched, and found a few inconclusive threads, so figured I'd add some info.
This is what it looks like
Minty fresh OEM.
The factory fasteners are security fasteners (not the torx shown above). They are hardened and have a domed head on them.
In the wild
(after going a little bit caveman on it)
There's three wires, I think there's an ECU that talks to the immobilizer and the key.
The immobilizer module has a printed circuit board in it cast in epoxy.
To get it off, I used a screw driver to chisel some of the plastic casing away from fasteners.
Then I used a double hex (12point) 8mm socket, an extension bar, and hammered it onto the domed head. 8mm was the perfect size. Only took a few taps, and it was snugly on with enough friction to undo them.
You can see the domed heads, and the steel plate the immobilizer circuitry is mounted to.
There's a half collar that clamps the module around the fuel cut solenoid. Once fasteners were out, removing the bits was easy.
I was a bit to rough, and broke the single wire that connects to the fuel cut solenoid, but I had maybe 3" of length left to connect onto.
I tried powering different combinations of the three wires before I busted the immobilizer open, but had no joy.
With the single wire exposed, 12 volts operated the solenoid as expected.
The solenoid inside the module looks the same as a standard fuel cut solenoid used in earlier models.
105 series 1HZ have a smart RFID key and an engine Imobilizer module on the injector pump fuel cut solenoid.
For me to start the engine out of the chassis, I needed to eliminate the immobilizer module.
I searched, and found a few inconclusive threads, so figured I'd add some info.
This is what it looks like
Minty fresh OEM.
The factory fasteners are security fasteners (not the torx shown above). They are hardened and have a domed head on them.
In the wild
(after going a little bit caveman on it)
There's three wires, I think there's an ECU that talks to the immobilizer and the key.
The immobilizer module has a printed circuit board in it cast in epoxy.
To get it off, I used a screw driver to chisel some of the plastic casing away from fasteners.
Then I used a double hex (12point) 8mm socket, an extension bar, and hammered it onto the domed head. 8mm was the perfect size. Only took a few taps, and it was snugly on with enough friction to undo them.
You can see the domed heads, and the steel plate the immobilizer circuitry is mounted to.
There's a half collar that clamps the module around the fuel cut solenoid. Once fasteners were out, removing the bits was easy.
I was a bit to rough, and broke the single wire that connects to the fuel cut solenoid, but I had maybe 3" of length left to connect onto.
I tried powering different combinations of the three wires before I busted the immobilizer open, but had no joy.
With the single wire exposed, 12 volts operated the solenoid as expected.
The solenoid inside the module looks the same as a standard fuel cut solenoid used in earlier models.
