1HZ head gasket for adding turbo (1 Viewer)

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I have been reading here for days and found tons of good info. But I want opinions on my situation regarding head gasket when adding a turbo to a 1HZ



The rig I have for my wife is a 1992 HZJ77 with auto trans and 31" tires no re-gearing. I'm replacing the head on my motor with a stock 1HZ head ( I found two cracks in the head from an old clogged radiator and it got hot-very likely from previous owner) it had the 2 notch (Mark II as i understand) head gasket

My question is: should I place a five notch Mark V gasket on it to reduce the compression a little bit to help lower compression for a turbo? I plan to add a turbo very soon I don't want anything crazy at all. I'm thinking 8-12 of boost keeping the EGTs well below 500C and I'll likely get an AFR gauge too. I believe this will assist in tuning. I need to research the boost compensator cause I'm learning this is pretty important so if this isn't too difficult I'll for sure do this too. I want it reliable so I don't want to over do any thing. (It is my wife's rig) but she did give me full permission to turbo it so Iv been set loose to get some more pep to her wheels 🚜



Second question: Is the CT26 turbo a good choice for low-end boost? Is there another turbo I should look into? I want boost at or below 1500 and only really need it past 3k or 3500.

Any and all advice will be appreciated. We just feel with the auto trans and slightly larger mud tires that motor needs some more help. (Possibly with the two cylinders halfway down from the cracks we probably had lower power too. But know it should get better MPG and do better on trips over the mountain passes after fitted with a turbo.
 
I like the way you are thinking, if you are replacing the head gasket anyways, you could go to a grade 5. The biggest reason to go with differing thicknesses of head gasket is after measuring piston protrusion. However, I see no harm in just putting in the thickest one. Just remember to use new head bolts, and with a new head going on, check the block surface as well to make sure it does not need any TLC (resurfacing to make it perfectly flat).

I used the CT26 as it is perfect for going up to around 22PSI max boost, and with the 6 cylinders, it spools up quickly around 1500RPM. You may not see much in the way of mileage increase, but you definitely get there quicker! If you want to get it all done in one go, get the front mount PDI intercooler and a PWR radiator to keep the forced air and engine cool.... this way you do not have to keep so religious about watching the EGT's. :cheers:
 
I like the way you are thinking, if you are replacing the head gasket anyways, you could go to a grade 5. The biggest reason to go with differing thicknesses of head gasket is after measuring piston protrusion. However, I see no harm in just putting in the thickest one. Just remember to use new head bolts, and with a new head going on, check the block surface as well to make sure it does not need any TLC (resurfacing to make it perfectly flat).







I used the CT26 as it is perfect for going up to around 22PSI max boost, and with the 6 cylinders, it spools up quickly around 1500RPM. You may not see much in the way of mileage increase, but you definitely get there quicker! If you want to get it all done in one go, get the front mount PDI intercooler and a PWR radiator to keep the forced air and engine cool.... this way you do not have to keep so religious about watching the EGT's. 





Thanks for the advice. I bought a 4 core aluminum rad already, but I'll take a look into that intercooler
 

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