1HDT conversion for 3B BJ70 (1 Viewer)

[dcruiser666]

EDIT: This turned into a 1HDT conversion, original plan was 1HZ

1989 BJ70LV-KR (Lhd, 3B2, H55F)

I've been considering this swap for a long time and have finally started reaching out to some members on here that sell 1HZs. My requirement is to get everything necessary to complete this swap in one go and understand everything that needs to be done before pulling the trigger. Anyway, I'm posting my thoughts and asking for everything I'm overlooking, missing, or mistaken about. I haven't found detailed enough write-ups on here about this swap, but if there are, please link.

Cooling System -
1. Radiator - should a 1HZ radiator be a direct fit?
2. Fan
3. Shroud
4. Hoses

Heater core/routing/related parts? (No clue on this, my 70 has no heater)

Intake -
1. Air cleaner
2. Air duct/hoses - My 3B has a fully "under-the-hood" intake, all diagrams and pics I've seen of the air 1hz cleaner box show intake routing going through the side of the engine bay seemingly for a raised intake. I don't have any desire to go to a raised intake, but curious if it's necessary

Do any changes to the throttle linkages need to be made?
Any sensor/wiring related tasks?

Transmission - (I will not be purchasing transmission/transfer case with the motor as I have a h55f I purchased new a year ago)
1. 1HZ input shaft *
2. new OEM clutch kit - any upgrades I should consider?

* Can I reuse the 3B bearing retainer?
* Are these year specific?

Do I need a 1HZ bell housing and this rear end plate 1135517011? I don't want to make or use any adapters, so I will get these parts if they are otherwise necessary.
Any relocating of the transmission & cross member, and any drive shaft mods?

Installation -
1. weld new motor mount brackets - I'm assuming
2. electrical plumbing**

** I exclusively use a wilson switch due to living in a warm place and rarely needing pre glow to start the engine, 1 crank and that's it. I would like to maintain this setup so are there any components I can remove from the 1HZ and are there any changes to the current ignition I would need to consider?
** Is fuel cutoff always electrical or are there vacuum switch examples? I would like to know this in the event that I purchase a 24v unit.
** Engine related components that require electricity are glow plugs, ac, starter, fuel cutoff, starter, alternator?

Accessories -
1. AC - I have ac already, any hose routing changes with a 1hz AC compressor
2. Power steering - I don't have this. All engines I've seen have power steering and I will buy one with power steering. Since I don't have power steering, what else is needed to make this work?

All info/comments/help is greatly appreciated. Aside from helping me I think this might create a good document for future use.

 

[TonyP]

We'll be pulling my 1HZ/H55 soon. If you're looking for a complete package let me know.

 

[dcruiser666]

I will send you a pm shortly.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The 1HZ radiator should be a direct fit. I put the 1HZ rad in place of the 3F rad, and I know the 2H rad also fits.
You will probably need the 1HZ throttle linkage but it will fit to your accelerator pedal.
You will need the shroud and hoses
Im not sure what your current air intake looks like but usually its fairly easy to connect them to other engine
Most 1HZ have the air coming in through the front RH fender(if they dont have a snorkel), but it doesnt matter if you can get your old filter box to work.
The 1HZ has a fuel cut solenoid. My 3F also had one on the carburettor, so I just plugged the wire to it. You may be able to use some wiring from the EDIC.
You will need the 1HZ input shaft
I would recommend an Exedy clutch. They have a special edge on the plate linings to cut down on diesel vibration and its effective.
Yes you will need the bellhousing and rear end plate, its part of the engine. It should come with the engine.
I dont think you will need to change anything around the gearbox and transfer mountings. I bolted the gearbox transfer case to the crossmember to the chassis and welded the engine mount bracket to chassis once I was happy with the position.
So it seems with the 3F and 1HZ, the gearboxes are in the same place
All 1HZ use the fuel cut solenoid. You can jump it just by adding a wire from battery to solenoid. I think the solenoids are the same for 12v and 24v
You should be able to use your wilson switch on the 1HZ
Ac and power steering just need the appropriate hoses plugged into the old system. On the 1HZ and 3F , nearly everything was on opposite sides.
I used a BJ70 hydraulic clutch line to connect to the slave cylinder but you will have that.
There was something on the alternator that needed doing and I cant remember what is was. I got a mobile auto electrician to come around and add the wire.

I would take a complete radiator 1HZ/H55F/tcase combo if its available and sell your old H55F. Just so much easier.

 

[dcruiser666]

The 1HZ radiator should be a direct fit. I put the 1HZ rad in place of the 3F rad, and I know the 2H rad also fits.
You will probably need the 1HZ throttle linkage but it will fit to your accelerator pedal.
You will need the shroud and hoses
Im not sure what your current air intake looks like but usually its fairly easy to connect them to other engine
Most 1HZ have the air coming in through the front RH fender(if they dont have a snorkel), but it doesnt matter if you can get your old filter box to work.
The 1HZ has a fuel cut solenoid. My 3F also had one on the carburettor, so I just plugged the wire to it. You may be able to use some wiring from the EDIC.
You will need the 1HZ input shaft
I would recommend an Exedy clutch. They have a special edge on the plate linings to cut down on diesel vibration and its effective.
Yes you will need the bellhousing and rear end plate, its part of the engine. It should come with the engine.
I dont think you will need to change anything around the gearbox and transfer mountings. I bolted the gearbox transfer case to the crossmember to the chassis and welded the engine mount bracket to chassis once I was happy with the position.
So it seems with the 3F and 1HZ, the gearboxes are in the same place
All 1HZ use the fuel cut solenoid. You can jump it just by adding a wire from battery to solenoid. I think the solenoids are the same for 12v and 24v
You should be able to use your wilson switch on the 1HZ
Ac and power steering just need the appropriate hoses plugged into the old system. On the 1HZ and 3F , nearly everything was on opposite sides.
I used a BJ70 hydraulic clutch line to connect to the slave cylinder but you will have that.
There was something on the alternator that needed doing and I cant remember what is was. I got a mobile auto electrician to come around and add the wire.

I would take a complete radiator 1HZ/H55F/tcase combo if its available and sell your old H55F. Just so much easier.

Thanks for all the information, really helpful. I'll be taking many of your notes down into my planning.

Regarding your conversion, were you putting an engine from a RHD into a LHD or vice versa? Mine is LHD and I haven't considered any issues that might exist if I use one from a RHD. I just thought about that because I assume, at least, throttle linkage -> pedal will have different configurations.

My 3BII doesn't have an EDIC, not sure if it's supposed to or not though. I assume the 1HZ doesn't use one?

I'm also super torn about getting the transmission and t case. The H55F I have in the truck now has virtually no miles on it and I rebuilt the t-case for that install... I guess it'll really depend on price. If it's cheap enough to get everything I will, for the sake of transferring the parts, just can't decide if it's worth all the extra work. Maybe I should start a poll.

 

[roscoFJ73]

My FJ73 was RH drive. The engines are all the same. On the 1HZ ,they use the same throttle linkage. There is a place where the cable can come from the firewall on LHD , and do a u turn back to the fuel pump by attaching to the air intake. Im not sure this one is correct but you get the idea. I thought the cable looped over the rear of the engine

All 1 HZs had a fuel cut solenoid , no edic. They were designed to eliminate the EDIC. I think your 3BII may have a fuel cut solenoid if it has a rotary fuel pump.
I wouldnt bother with a poll, just start working out the $$$ figures, like what you can sell it for vs the cost of paying extra for one fitted to the 1hz.

Temperature and oil pressure were plug and play, you may need to extend the temp wire depending which 1HZ , the Australian ones had some sensors in different places.

 

[dcruiser666]

Thanks again. And I was just kidding about the poll. But you're right, the transmission situation should really just be a money thing.

The throttle linkage picture you posted looks interesting. Mine has something very similar going on, it comes out of the firewall and loops all the way around the front and back toward the intake, very close to where it started. Probably just something I'll have to figure out in person.

 

[roscoFJ73]

You will probably just need the 1HZ cable at most and connect it to your pedal

 

[HDJ73]

Have a watch of my vid, I realise you're going 1hz but they are the same family so mounts the same etc.

 

[roscoFJ73]

What are the blue plates on the firewall for? Ive seen them on mining vehicles from QLD with modifications.I did my exhaust the same as you. Good video.

 

[dcruiser666]

Have a watch of my vid, I realise you're going 1hz but they are the same family so mounts the same etc.

Yes, great video. Thanks for that. Seeing that an FTE conversion was that easy gives me a lot more confidence about the 1HZ

 

[HDJ73]

What are the blue plates on the firewall for? Ive seen them on mining vehicles from QLD with modifications.I did my exhaust the same as you. Good video.

Blue plates are for modifications over the years and can't be removed it's a Queensland government thing. Rear seat mod, old 3b turbo, long range tank, and the new engine and gearbox all had to be mod plated to comply, just a gov money making scheme really.

 

[dcruiser666]

@HDJ73

I'm at the point of needing to weld the mounting brackets for the motor. On the right side there doesn't seem to be any hole pattern on the rail, you mention in the video, that would line up with the bracket. Is it possible to indicate in these images what would go where? I'd like to avoid test fitting everything just to mark where the welds need to go.

 

[dcruiser666]

If anyone has measurements from a HZJ7x that would be much appreciated as well.

 

[HDJ73]

Does this help?

 

[dcruiser666]

Yes. Immensely. Do you happen to have the other side as well? With the pto shaft brackets off it became a lot more testy.

Really, what I'm trying to avoid is putting the engine and transmissions in to bolt down the cross member, mark the spots where the brackets should be, remove everything for the space to weld properly/safely, and put everything back in finally. I don't have access to an hzj7x to compare and I'm doing this alone, any good information here would save so much time.

 

[HDJ73]

You'll have to wait till tomorrow now near it atm

 

[dcruiser666]

No worries at all. Thank you

 

[HDJ73]

I can't answer your questions regarding the PTO as mine never had it. If you weld the engine mounts on as per my photos ( assuming you have the same brackets) you should be able to install the engine and gearbox together and jack up the gearbox with the cross member and were it rests is where you weld the cross member brackets on the chassis so you shouldn't have to remove the engine and gearbox again. In the photo with the ruler it's 99mm from the edge of the mount ( the part of the mount that's 90 degrees to the chassis) to the closest hole (centre).

 

[dcruiser666]

This is great, thanks so much.