1hdt tuners in the US? (1 Viewer)

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i personally would not grind my pin cant go back if you wanted to...

I went with Trundles because it claims to have been hardened to 52-54 HRC also the liner profile and can't beat the price for $70 nzd way cheaper than zeal power rod in $375Cad yeah no thanks.
I saw a Trundles pin with a groove in it as well. Are any made of chromoly?
 
I saw a Trundles pin with a groove in it as well. Are any made of chromoly?
the trundles pin is now on Version 3 so hopefully, they have fixed the issue in this revision.. mines a V3 so time will tell

its dry where the pin rides so I've also seen some people use a light coat of grease to help the pin slide
 
the trundles pin is now on Version 3 so hopefully, they have fixed the issue in this revision.. mines a V3 so time will tell

its dry where the pin rides so I've also seen some people use a light coat of grease to help the pin slide
Wish I would of known that before I placed the order for the Boost compensator cap the other day 🥴 could of saved on shipping.

I’ll order one of their pins and keep the OEM as a backup.
 
Wish I would of known that before I placed the order for the Boost compensator cap the other day 🥴 could of saved on shipping.

I’ll order one of their pins and keep the OEM as a backup.
Yeah same I should of ordered there frame stiffener at the same time. I did the same.
 
Now that I’ve got the confidence to finish what I started. Where do y’all think I should set the boost? Currently at 18-19. Bump it to 20-22?
 
Now that I’ve got the confidence to finish what I started. Where do y’all think I should set the boost? Currently at 18-19. Bump it to 20-22?
depends on your air density and lambda

Shoot for 18 see how it goes. Go from there depends on how much the fuel pump can give you could go up to 25-30. Are you aiming for 250HP+ ?
 
depends on your air density and lambda

Shoot for 18 see how it goes. Go from there depends on how much the fuel pump can give you could go up to 25-30. Are you aiming for 250HP+ ?
I’m not shooting for a number per se.

The butt dyno is what counts the most to me. I’m nearly happy with where it’s at currently (18psi).

I have enough power to get out the way in traffic where as I didn’t when I first got it. It was a turd. The fueling was never touched.
 
I’m not shooting for a number per se.

The butt dyno is what counts the most to me. I’m nearly happy with where it’s at currently (18psi).

I have enough power to get out the way in traffic where as I didn’t when I first got it. It was a turd. The fueling was never touched.
It’s a balancing act to get good clean power with minimal smoke and efficiency and low EGTs. Good luck.
 
I’m not shooting for a number per se.

The butt dyno is what counts the most to me. I’m nearly happy with where it’s at currently (18psi).

I have enough power to get out the way in traffic where as I didn’t when I first got it. It was a turd. The fueling was never touched.
If the engine is healthy, you've got enough turbo to use all the fuel your pump will give (I assume it's a stock pump etc)
25ish PSI is usually about the end of the fuel on a stock pump, AFR 21:1ish on boost and about 200 rwhp.

One thing to be mindful of, if your pump is tired, the internal advance mechanism seems to be unable to provide the needed advance as the RPMs increase so she'll make good torque but drop off power and send the EGT through the roof at 2k rpm or so.
 
It seems like not too many people make an AFR gauge that goes over 20:1. Even Glow Shift (a diesel company doesn’t make one.

Any recommendations? I found 1 out of Australia and that’s about it.
I’m thinking of getting off of these AFR meters


Vs


Apps look identical.

As per performance electronics:

“The sensor that you can use is a Bosch Wideband A/F Sensor part number 17212. You can use the sensor that comes with the PE-Wideband Kit, however the sensor element will get clogged from the soot in the diesel exhaust. The sensor from the part number I sent you has a different design for a diesel that will not get clogged.”
 

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