1HDT doesnt turn off (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 27, 2021
Threads
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Location
Alaska
I have a 1991 HDJ81, yesterday went to turn it off and it didn't shut off, my first thought was the fuel shut off had failed, but then I noticed the gear indicator on the dssh was still lit as we're my guages. When I pulled the 7.5a it shut off which leads me to think that the contact in the ignition is fused on since I had a charger on the batteries while cranking when I had started it that morning (it was -5°F, new batteries and an upgraded alternator are on the list to get soon) . My idea is to put a switch in line under the dash for the ignition wire to turn it off and add some theft protection. Unless someone with more knowledge and experience has a better idea of what it could be?
 
power going to the ignition from something like an OEM wich solenoid in my case
 
I have a 1991 HDJ81, yesterday went to turn it off and it didn't shut off, my first thought was the fuel shut off had failed, but then I noticed the gear indicator on the dssh was still lit as we're my guages. When I pulled the 7.5a it shut off which leads me to think that the contact in the ignition is fused on since I had a charger on the batteries while cranking when I had started it that morning (it was -5°F, new batteries and an upgraded alternator are on the list to get soon) . My idea is to put a switch in line under the dash for the ignition wire to turn it off and add some theft protection. Unless someone with more knowledge and experience has a better idea of what it could be?
A bad ground from the ignition to the OEM winch solenoid caused same problem for me.


what about the Electrical ROTORY Key switch itself ?
 
Probably not helpful but I had a 7.3L powerstroke that used to do this when it got really cold. A solenoid was sticking.
 
power going to the ignition from something like an OEM wich solenoid in my case
Mine doesn't have the oem winch and I don't know of anything that would be supplying between the ignition and fuse
what about the Electrical ROTORY Key switch itself ?
If I understand correctly that's what I'm leaning towards as the issue. It seems the IGN2 has latched on since there isn't anything between the ignition and the fuse that would be providing power to the circuit. I'm looking at the charging circuit on the 80 series electrical wiring diagram as I couldn't find the fuel shutoff circuit and when I disconnected the batteries the alternator was still providing power to keep it running until I pulled the fuse.
Probably not helpful but I had a 7.3L powerstroke that used to do this when it got really cold. A solenoid was sticking.
It's not temp related as far as I can tell since it wouldn't shut off after driving around town all day and there hadn't been a problem earlier in the week when it had gotten down to -10°F. I just had it charging since weak batteries and cold temps don't mix well for starting after sitting for a few days

hdj81 charge circuit.JPG
 
Well after letting it sit for 2 days with the batteries disconnected I took her for a drive and it turned off no problems, restarted and shut it off a couple times just to be extra sure. Not sure exactly what it was but have a new ignition switch on the way just in case.
 
Well after letting it sit for 2 days with the batteries disconnected I took her for a drive and it turned off no problems, restarted and shut it off a couple times just to be extra sure. Not sure exactly what it was but have a new ignition switch on the way just in case.


- did you purchase a Verified TOYOTA Genuine Parts ignition key switch from a trusted supplier / Vendor / or your local dealer itself ?

or

- a aftermarket one , that simply suggested it is / was OEM

- or

- chose aftermarket option for various reasons ?


- reason i ask is as of very lately , i have noticed a in-flux of all / any year land cruiser ignition key switches , on places like ebay , amazon etc . being pon'd off as OEM , when in my opinion there clearly not .........

- make sure you apply a normal amount of full synthetic Di-Electric grease to all the connection / connector points you un-plug and re-connect in the step by steps of this key switch replacement , its good measure , even if its inside the passenger compartment under the dash / steering column ...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

- note : i don't offer any 80 series key switches at this time , but OEM made in JAPAN ones will be here before the holiday , because of what i have seen and noticed in my above comment .....
 
Two things will keep an old landcruiser diesel with no ECU running - the fuel injector pump solenoid remaining powered, or the motor 'running' on it's own blow-by and oil residue atomised into the intake air.

If it won't shut of when the key is in 'off' is the electrical system actually 'off' or is some of it still powered? I've never heard of anyone wiring a 'kill switch' into the wire to the fuel solenoid.

I personally have only ever seen a diesel engine go haywire once - in a locomotive - because there was an electrical fault that as soon as the loco's control switch was switched from 'start' to 'run' the governor drove the fuel racks to full open and the V12 EMD 645 engine went up to full 8 notch throttle revs.

But in a landcruiser with a 1hz or 1hdt the system is a lot simpler.
 
When you say you had a charger connected whilst you were trying to start the engine was it connected to the correct battery, assuming you still have the ridiculous 24 volt start system?

Regards

Dave
 
- did you purchase a Verified TOYOTA Genuine Parts ignition key switch from a trusted supplier / Vendor / or your local dealer itself ?

or

- a aftermarket one , that simply suggested it is / was OEM

- or

- chose aftermarket option for various reasons ?


- reason i ask is as of very lately , i have noticed a in-flux of all / any year land cruiser ignition key switches , on places like ebay , amazon etc . being pon'd off as OEM , when in my opinion there clearly not .........

- make sure you apply a normal amount of full synthetic Di-Electric grease to all the connection / connector points you un-plug and re-connect in the step by steps of this key switch replacement , its good measure , even if its inside the passenger compartment under the dash / steering column ...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

- note : i don't offer any 80 series key switches at this time , but OEM made in JAPAN ones will be here before the holiday , because of what i have seen and noticed in my above comment .....
I did get the oem switch p/n 84450-60180, it's coming from Australia, just got it online as the nearest toyota dealer is a 4 hr drive away

Two things will keep an old landcruiser diesel with no ECU running - the fuel injector pump solenoid remaining powered, or the motor 'running' on it's own blow-by and oil residue atomised into the intake air.

If it won't shut of when the key is in 'off' is the electrical system actually 'off' or is some of it still powered? I've never heard of anyone wiring a 'kill switch' into the wire to the fuel solenoid.

I personally have only ever seen a diesel engine go haywire once - in a locomotive - because there was an electrical fault that as soon as the loco's control switch was switched from 'start' to 'run' the governor drove the fuel racks to full open and the V12 EMD 645 engine went up to full 8 notch throttle revs.

But in a landcruiser with a 1hz or 1hdt the system is a lot simpler.
I'm almost positive it wasn't the engine running on it's own blow-by as the alternator was still charging and the gauges I have piggybacked off the 7.5 amp ign fuse were still on and if just the injector pump solenoid was just staying energized by itself the others would've shut off.

The switch I was thinking of putting in (and may still put in if it starts acting up again) would just be under the dash between the ignition and the 7.5 amp fuse. Might try spraying it out with electrical contact cleaner also incase it was just that contact sticking

When you say you had a charger connected whilst you were trying to start the engine was it connected to the correct battery, assuming you still have the ridiculous 24 volt start system?

Regards

Dave
Upon further research I was charging off the wrong battery, when I first needed to toss a charger on it I didn't have an internet connection to search on it and just traced the alternator wires to the left side battery and since I didn't have any issues kept doing that. Previous owner must've tossed the cover with the warning label 😬
 
Australia ,,,,, 🤔

as in the other side of the world and down under too , really ?

do u understand the real actual shipping time on a small light weight item like that ?

for real !

you might see it possibly 1st week of January :confused:



i could of ordered you one up and had it in your hands in less then 72 hours , yes 72 hours up there is ALASKA via USPS EMS express ......
 
Last edited:
Australia ,,,,, 🤔

as in the other side of the world and down under too , really ?

do u understand the real actual shipping time on a small light weight item like that ?

for real !

you might see it possibly 1st week of January :confused:



i could of ordered you one up and had it in your hands in less then 72 hours , yes 72 hours up there is ALASKA via USPS EMS express ......
:rofl: I know I know, like I said it's a backup so I wasn't too worried about I getting here fast..... the o ring and gasket that I ordered for my leaky injection pump on the other hand.....
 
Global shipping since Covid wrecked it is awfully slow but it's getting better. Christmas time now so the traditional 10x normal parcel volume won't help.
 
Global shipping since Covid wrecked it is awfully slow but it's getting better. Christmas time now so the traditional 10x normal parcel volume won't help.


:rofl: I know I know, like I said it's a backup so I wasn't too worried about I getting here fast..... the o ring and gasket that I ordered for my leaky injection pump on the other hand.....


@sunrk knows too Covid and the fact its down in OZ make it a long time haul ...........

there is a reason its call OZ .........





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