1hdt 80 series issues, becoming and endless pursuit of fixing (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 20, 2015
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22
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95
Location
India
Moving it into diesel section as instructed

Hey guys,

I live in India, a country where you see very few cruisers floating around. Happened to get my hands on a 1992 80 series, a dream since I hit puberty, which now came to life. Since I have bought this there has been a series of issues/questions I have been confronting and any advice from experienced lots would be very helpful. Please bear with me as the list is pretty long:

1: as soon as I took possession of the rig I was faced white smoke issues which slowly started becoming very prominent, so I began to fix the issue.

I was told that the turbo seals are blown, so removed it, replaced the seals and put it back, while at it also got the injectors cleaned and got a full service done.
The car came back with the same
Issue unresolved!

When we opened the turbo there was a slight oil leak from exhaust port 1 and 2, which lead to suspecting guides and head gasket, so we set out to replace those parts and relised the valves, steam seals had issues due to bad timing setting.
We ended up replacing the valves, head gasket, guides and seals, removed the turbo and fixed the seals again.
I was also told that the head gasket quality is bad when we first fixed it as we starting seeing coolant boiling in the radiator, because of which I was told the head gasket quality is bad, so removed it all again got another gasket and fitted it back.

2: After we did all this work, the white smoke stopped, oil spray from the turbo intake hose stopped but started seeing some black smoke from the exhaust.
Now they are suspecting diesel pump needs servicing, and retuning as there might be excess diesel being pumped in.

3. I somehow managed to drive it for a short weekend trip when I realised the car has significant loss of power with car struggling to climb a Tarmac incline up a moderate hill station and struggling to touch 100kms speed.
I really got frustrated and somehow fished out the number of the previous owner and to my surprise he tells me the engine had seized due to driving for a long distance in 3rd gear and created a crack on the block.

4. I called my mechanic and he tells me he could not see any signs of crack or seize in the cylinders when he was working on it and tells me sluggishness could be because of turbo going bad and fuel pump needing fixing and still thinks the second head gasket also being faulty and because of which there is loss of compression.

Summarisation: I am beginning to get worried how deep is the problem and is it worth it to keep the car. What am I really dealing with here and if I do, will it come back biting me hard in the future?

By the way this is a 1hdt, auto transmission with approx 200k kms on it with centre diff locks and AWD setup

Please advice
 
Unless you can find someone who knows a lot about these ,your problems will continue. At the moment you are paying people to guess what's wrong with it.
Fuel injection pumps are for specialists. Pumps need to be removed from the engine and placed on a test bench that simulates driving by turning the pump at various speeds.
Injectors are not cleaned on these,they need the nozzles to be replaced. They have 2 stage injector ,and not many shops have the equipment to do them properly, although I believe they can be made to work ok as a single stage.
If the head is coming off to do the gasket again , it should be tested for cracks and planed straight.
Cracks in the engine block can be hairline that virtually close up when the engine is cool.
Just driving in 3rd wont hurt the engine ,unless it overheats.
 
I'd start by having the block checked to confirm if it's cracked or not. If that's really the case, any and all money spent is wasted without addressing the root of your issues.

Maybe another call to the previous owner and get the info of the machine shop he used, or how he came to the conclusion it was cracked would be a great start. Did you buy it directly from the previous owner, and he didn't disclose this at the time?
 
Unless you can find someone who knows a lot about these ,your problems will continue. At the moment you are paying people to guess what's wrong with it.
Fuel injection pumps are for specialists. Pumps need to be removed from the engine and placed on a test bench that simulates driving by turning the pump at various speeds.
Injectors are not cleaned on these,they need the nozzles to be replaced. They have 2 stage injector ,and not many shops have the equipment to do them properly, although I believe they can be made to work ok as a single stage.
If the head is coming off to do the gasket again , it should be tested for cracks and planed straight.
Cracks in the engine block can be hairline that virtually close up when the engine is cool.
Just driving in 3rd wont hurt the engine ,unless it overheats.
That is what I intend to do, get the pump removed and take it to a specialist this weekend. The next thing on the list now is Turbo, coz opening and fixing it is not helping, wondering if it needs replacement
 
I'd start by having the block checked to confirm if it's cracked or not. If that's really the case, any and all money spent is wasted without addressing the root of your issues.

Maybe another call to the previous owner and get the info of the machine shop he used, or how he came to the conclusion it was cracked would be a great start. Did you buy it directly from the previous owner, and he didn't disclose this at the time?
I got this car through another dealer in between, so I really I am not sure if I can trust the whole transaction any more, if I decide to go down that path then it must be all self discovery from now on...
 
Do you have a boost gauge. Black smoke and overfuelling could be a lack of turbo pressue. And only use OEM toyota head gasket. Too many failures with non genuine.
I do have access to boost gauge, will get that check this weekend or sooner and I now beginning to feel the head gasket issue and in India given there are very few cars which it here (mostly embassies) parts are not easy to find and especially OEM
 
Any idea how to get block checked, does everything need to be opened up for this?
 

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