Stock dyno numbers for mine this summer were 157hp and 260lb/ft. Diesel doctors in georgetown did the work and wanted to turn up the fuel and really let it howl, but I said leave it be until I did the beb's and got a 3" ex. and intercooler.
1HD-T Turbo & Performance Options (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter canadian bum
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
here is another interesting read.
46psi from compound turbos on a stock 1HD-T
Outer Limits 4x4 Board • View topic - My twin turbo experiment = 46psi
46psi from compound turbos on a stock 1HD-T
Outer Limits 4x4 Board • View topic - My twin turbo experiment = 46psi
canadian bum
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #23
Now that we have an idea of boost numbers what kind of injection pump mods need to be done and where to get the parts? All I can find is that they mod the pump but don't say in what way. I will mod and work on my own pump and document how difficult the mods are so you guys will know what to expect. Since most people probably just send it off to an injection pump place for the work.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
the pump in the thread I linked above was heavily modded by the owner (Dzltec on Outerlimits) from memory he used 13mm distributive head and plunger from an Isuzu pump (std pump uses 12mm elements)
He was having issues supplying enough fuel to be able to make use of all the boost
the boost controller or aneroid also needs some modifying to prevent it going into overboost fuel cut mode at approx 15psi boost.
Basically you need to limit the down travel on the boost compensator plunger rod
He was having issues supplying enough fuel to be able to make use of all the boost
the boost controller or aneroid also needs some modifying to prevent it going into overboost fuel cut mode at approx 15psi boost.
Basically you need to limit the down travel on the boost compensator plunger rod
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I have often wondered wether sourcing and adapting a pump from an Isuzu or something else with higher output would be an easier option to modding the std pump?
I would be looking to compound turbo's to give the broadest power band without lag or running out of top end flow.
With a std pump tweaked as much as EGTs would allow, I had my CT26 producing usefulll boost from around 1600RPM, (I would have liked to see this around 1200RPM) it peaked at around 2200RPM and started running out of top end flow around 3600RPM.
What year 1HD-T do you have?
The early ones had issues with injector lines being too small. A lot of early Australian delivered 80series had new larger fuel delivery and return lines and larger injector lines fitted as a warranty item due to mid range fuel surge issues
I would be looking to compound turbo's to give the broadest power band without lag or running out of top end flow.
With a std pump tweaked as much as EGTs would allow, I had my CT26 producing usefulll boost from around 1600RPM, (I would have liked to see this around 1200RPM) it peaked at around 2200RPM and started running out of top end flow around 3600RPM.
What year 1HD-T do you have?
The early ones had issues with injector lines being too small. A lot of early Australian delivered 80series had new larger fuel delivery and return lines and larger injector lines fitted as a warranty item due to mid range fuel surge issues
canadian bum
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #26
Engines are 92-93 range. I have more than one to tune. Thanks for the fuel info. I will look into the lines, and do some more research on the mods.
I had my 1hdt dynoed and I got 135hp to the wheels full time 4wd set up is 40ar turbo fmic intercooler power rod and kn cone air cleAner 3 inch exhaust
Don't compare a Yanmar with our engines: they are cooled by the water they run in (obviously). That water is around 25 celsius; our engines have to be cooled with water of 100 celsius.
Also those Yanmars have a complete lake as cooling water; we have just a bucket.
If you want power: why not lpg injection. 30% more power and 30% less fuel consumption.
Also those Yanmars have a complete lake as cooling water; we have just a bucket.
If you want power: why not lpg injection. 30% more power and 30% less fuel consumption.
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
pardon my ignorance: what are the dangers of more boost?
more blow-by?
popping your head gasket?
damaging.... what?
I'm running stock (tops at about 11psi) and my egts are higher than I want
so I've been thinking that I can reduce fuel or increase boost, more fun to add boost.
of course, I also need a bigger exhaust
more blow-by?
popping your head gasket?
damaging.... what?
I'm running stock (tops at about 11psi) and my egts are higher than I want
so I've been thinking that I can reduce fuel or increase boost, more fun to add boost.
of course, I also need a bigger exhaust
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
more boost more stress in your engine .. and on tip of that there is a limit on the boost capacity of your turbo .. been said that your factory CT26 it's easily 14 PSI capable .. I'm boosting that .. or at least that's the most that I allow .. but I usually don't use all that bosot ..
Back on your question .. more stress yes, head, studs, but much more rings ..
Back on your question .. more stress yes, head, studs, but much more rings ..
Hey guys thought i would chime in as ive been playing this game for a year or so now
i have
top mount intercooler
water meth injection
gt2860
3" zorst
3"intake through safari snorkel
and a s*** load of fuel going in infront of the auto i find it hard to keep in boost but i will update u when its all done and running mint?
i have
top mount intercooler
water meth injection
gt2860
3" zorst
3"intake through safari snorkel
and a s*** load of fuel going in infront of the auto i find it hard to keep in boost but i will update u when its all done and running mint?
canadian bum
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #32
Got an H1C turbo that has a 21 mm exhaust housing but I am going to put a smaller wastegated housing off of an HX35 on it. Now too see if I can get the boost out of it.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Well the mm part is a typo, I think? The size of the turbo housing is 21cm sq. don't know what that is in mm though. I think they were in 91-93 Dodge Rams.
Last edited:
Is the HD-FTE turbo any sort of upgrade for a 1HD-T? Thought I read that somewhere.
Anyone thinking mo' powa, might want to check out Japan 4x4...... many turn-key kits available from Japan (HKS for one) specifically for the 1HD-Turbolicious crowd.
30psi is not an efficient number for no intercooler. You could make power with it but losing the benefit of Di diesel a bit.
I have a nice upgrade that delivers 1.7 bar early in revs without IC on a 12HT. Not overfueled either to get there.
I met Andy at Dieseltec and spoke to him about his 1HDT. At the time he said it was a stock pump. The TD42 that spat a rod at 55psi and 177rwkw was modded. My cousins race winning truck with TD42 does over 210kw at wheels at 35psi. no smoke under load and EGTs are high.
I am developing a higher performance version on my new turbo mod that should do what you are asking. It uses a custom turbine wheel and compressor and I wont get delivery of either for 6 weeks or so. Even so, without an intercooler and at a guess (its 2am right now) with 30psi I wouldnt expect more than 170 safe hp @ wheels. You dont want to melt a piston crown.
I will be testing it on a 1HD-FT that apparantly gets 240hp @ wheels. I'll believe it when I see it. In any case, I will be dynoing it before I trial the new turbo to get a baseline
Dont forget to consider there is a efficiency decrease ~ 25% going from 2000rpm to 3500rpm. As a result better to bring the torque on early.
@ Hulsty, the compound 1HD-FTE sounds great but like Dougal said, and his numbers have always been about right, you will need 70 psi on land to get 1000nm and have a chance at nt melting your pistons.
I have a nice upgrade that delivers 1.7 bar early in revs without IC on a 12HT. Not overfueled either to get there.
I met Andy at Dieseltec and spoke to him about his 1HDT. At the time he said it was a stock pump. The TD42 that spat a rod at 55psi and 177rwkw was modded. My cousins race winning truck with TD42 does over 210kw at wheels at 35psi. no smoke under load and EGTs are high.
I am developing a higher performance version on my new turbo mod that should do what you are asking. It uses a custom turbine wheel and compressor and I wont get delivery of either for 6 weeks or so. Even so, without an intercooler and at a guess (its 2am right now) with 30psi I wouldnt expect more than 170 safe hp @ wheels. You dont want to melt a piston crown.
I will be testing it on a 1HD-FT that apparantly gets 240hp @ wheels. I'll believe it when I see it. In any case, I will be dynoing it before I trial the new turbo to get a baseline
Dont forget to consider there is a efficiency decrease ~ 25% going from 2000rpm to 3500rpm. As a result better to bring the torque on early.
@ Hulsty, the compound 1HD-FTE sounds great but like Dougal said, and his numbers have always been about right, you will need 70 psi on land to get 1000nm and have a chance at nt melting your pistons.
Bump from the dead.
I'm dealing with skyrocketing EGT's when I hit 4th gear lockup. I have a 1HDT with rebuilt IP/Inj and a Gturbo Gx.
Reading this here is interesting:
"A lot of early Australian delivered 80series had new larger fuel delivery and return lines and larger injector lines fitted as a warranty item due to mid range fuel surge issues"
This sounds like an issue that could contribute to my skyrocketing EGTs? Any clear way of seeing if you have the smaller fuel lines?
I'm dealing with skyrocketing EGT's when I hit 4th gear lockup. I have a 1HDT with rebuilt IP/Inj and a Gturbo Gx.
Reading this here is interesting:
"A lot of early Australian delivered 80series had new larger fuel delivery and return lines and larger injector lines fitted as a warranty item due to mid range fuel surge issues"
This sounds like an issue that could contribute to my skyrocketing EGTs? Any clear way of seeing if you have the smaller fuel lines?
Smaller fuel lines would mean LESS fuel than requested being injected, right? Less fuel = lower EGT's, so I think you're on the wrong track here in searching for a cause of high EGT's.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Fuel line changes was to increase hard and rubber lines from tank to injection pump to 12mm
Injector lines from pump to injector where increased in diameter too, and the orifice in the tapered fittings on the end of injector lines was made larger.
Orifice is something like 2.5mm vs 1.5mm
Injector lines from pump to injector where increased in diameter too, and the orifice in the tapered fittings on the end of injector lines was made larger.
Orifice is something like 2.5mm vs 1.5mm
