1HD-T & H151F Swap: What Should I Refresh While They're Out (1 Viewer)

[CaptBeardilocks]

Hey All,

I am getting ready to pull the drivetrain from a 1990 JDM RHD HDJ80 to swap into my LHD 1995 FZJ80. The manual to auto/RHD to LHD part of the swap is probably a topic I'll bring up later. But for now I'm wondering what should be addressed on the 1HD-T and H151F while they're out and before they go back in.

The HDJ80 shows ~194k miles. It is currently still running & driving and it starts immediately every time, little to zero blow by, has great power, shifts nice, and generally feels great as is. Timing belt was done ~20k miles and many years ago, but that's about the only maintenance record I have.

From research so far I'm guessing I should do the BEBs. I'll be installing a GTurbo kit with matching pump & intercooler. I'll put a new HD clutch in during the swap (recommendations welcome!). Change to 12V starter and keep the second battery as a house battery. Anything else you would do "while you were in there"?

Thanks!

 

[Workhorse]

Congratulations on your donor and undertaking the swap. You’ll love it!

Basic maintenance is always a good place to start. I’m a fan of base lining as much as possible, especially when it’s out of the truck. In the truck can be a royal pain.

T-belt and tensioner (even if you think it’s been done recently), upper and lower radiator hoses, coolant and pipe lines/hoses to and from the turbo especially since you’re swapping in a Gturbo. Oil lines and oil return from the turbo as well. Possibly exhaust manifold gaskets. In fact all coolant and heater hoses in the engine bay wouldn’t hurt either. Again, much simpler to change them with an empty engine bay and the engine out.

That’s a start. I’m sure the other guys will have a lot that I missed. Hope this helps at least a little.

 

[Workhorse]

There are a couple great swap threads you will find useful, here is one:

Builds - Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap

I believe the title says it, I'm going to begin a 24 valve 1HD-FT turbo diesel and matching 5 speed manual transmission swap into a USA model 1996 FZJ80 truck. A little background first: I've owned the 96' FZJ80 since January/2014 and it's been sitting in my shop ever since while I've...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

She’s getting a full spa treatment with the swap. Body is currently off the frame for a frame/axle rust treat/repaint. All new OEM brake & fuel lines, under hood refresh. Bitch is in the details right?

It’s my first 1HDT so I just want to make sure to get that baselines correctly. Seems a bit early for a full rebuild with how well it runs.

Anyone have any thoughts on the T-Case? The drivetrain has an HF2A on it and I have the HF2AV (with VC). All the driveshafts should swap right over if i meek it all as a package. Not sure if the non VC has any issues to worry about. Is it as good as a VC TCase with part time kit?

 

[BarnFab]

Hdj80 or HDJ81? Guessingb81 if RHD

 

[roscoFJ73]

I would do the rear main oil seal. You should remove the flywheel for machining, so the seal will be a 10 minute job. On rear main oil seals, only use OEM.
I would check the float on the crankshaft.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I agree with changing the tbelt, idler and tensioner. A failure is mission critical and can mean a full rebuild.
BEBs is probably a good idea to while you're at it. I personally don't buy into the "change them every 100k km" school of thought.
Definitely change all rubber hoses.
Intake manifold gaskets can be a problem, the rubber shrinks.
I'm not sure if touch the exhaust manifold. The centre seal is likely to leak after is been distributed.

I wouldn't touch the T-case unless the was an obvious need to. Drop the oil, check for metal in the oil and refill.
Same with the gearbox. I'd fill both with Castrol VMX-M. The H151 can suffer from a clunky gear shift often this is simply because the oil is old, or the wrong grade is in it.
Run the VMX-M for 10-15k and drop it and refresh again to clear out any old remnants.
Castrol VMX-M is the same spec as what Toyota specify, but is a slightly lighter viscosity and has friction modifiers in it.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Also, put a fresh set of injectors in it

 

[chapel gate]

Water pump.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

rebuild Injectors, have fuel pump bench tested, replace timing belt, tensioner, idler and water pump, big end bearings and all external gaskets and front and rear main seals. Easy now but a pain when the engine is in the truck

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

Hdj80 or HDJ81? Guessingb81 if RHD

VIN plate shows it as a 1990 HDJ80R.

The early build date is one reason that I was thinking about the BEBs. I don't think I made it to 193k miles w/o them being done at some point, but not hard to do with it out.

@mudgudgeon Thanks for the oil spec.
@roscoFJ73 I forgot about about the rear main. Good catch. What work should I be getting done to the flywheel?
@AussieHJCruza Getting a rebuilt/built pump from GTurbo to match the turbo upgrade (more than likely).

Any recommendations on injector rebuilders in the US? Nothing in my area that I would trust. Or is it worth just getting new ones?

 

[mattimooseprime]

Do the tbelt and tensioner. I would hate to see another one blow up like mine did (all though I had done mine!)

Definitely get the injectors looked over. I had mine done and it made a hell of a difference. Remove the acsd or replace it if you live somewhere that gets real cold. Check the clutch fan!

need an intake manifold gasket /stud set? I have one from before I detonated my engine. Lol.

......what're you doing with the rest of the RHD chassis?

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

Do the tbelt and tensioner. I would hate to see another one blow up like mine did (all though I had done mine!)

Definitely get the injectors looked over. I had mine done and it made a hell of a difference. Remove the acsd or replace it if you live somewhere that gets real cold. Check the clutch fan!

need an intake manifold gasket /stud set? I have one from before I detonated my engine. Lol.

......what're you doing with the rest of the RHD chassis?

I didn't know about the ACSD. Thanks for the head's up. I'll have to see what the upgraded pump comes with when i get it.

How much for the intake set? OEM?

As for the chassis... What's left will likely be up for grabs. I'm either keeping the axles for parts or a friend is taking them (lockers). The body is pretty rusty (or I wouldn't have sacrificed her). The interior is really nice. Dash is perfect. Blue velour seats. I'm tempted to take the fronts for my build and eventually recover them (manual seats but with lumbar, adjustable bolsters, etc. But I'm having trouble finding replacement foam for the JDM seats...

 

[Feistl]

Not sure what Toyota dealers are like in the USA, but I buy all my spare parts through Carmarka.com.

They tend to be about 50-60% cheaper than Toyota dealers here in Aus.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Not sure what Toyota dealers are like in the USA, but I buy all my spare parts through Carmarka.com.

They tend to be about 50-60% cheaper than Toyota dealers here in Aus.

do they do genuine parts? First time I've heard of them

 

[Feistl]

Yes, 100% genuine Toyota. They are based in Abu Dabi or Dubai...

I’ve used them for around $4k worth of parts (rebuilt a 1hdt, 12ht and 1fzfe).

If you input your vin they’ll give you specific diagrams showing every part number, or if you’re doing a body swap I tend to use TOYOTA | Japan Parts EU as you can search by year/specific trim level.

Carmarka is good providing you spend $150usd or more, if you spend less they charge you a higher handling fee. The shipping costs is a little on the high side (Eg I probably wouldn’t bother ordering something large and light like a battery box) but for seals/gaskets etc it’s a really cheap option.

Btw no affiliation or anything. Just all my landcruisers get completely overhauled and this is the most cost effective way by far.

(Edit - I did actually buy a battery box from them, with shipping it was slightly more expensive than my local dealer, but I ordered a bunch of other small parts which fit inside the box making it very cost effective). Depending what you order the shipping time can be between 48 hours landed at your door, to 2 weeks if stuff is on back order. The crazy thing is they show where the parts are coming from, and some stuff they’ve ordered on back order from Australia to Dubai, packed it in a box and sent it back to me for less than a Australian dealership would selll to me for trade lol

 

[roscoFJ73]

What work should I be getting done to the flywheel?

Machining the flywheel helps in getting a smooth clutch that lasts longer. The machinist I used says he has a particular grind that works well with the friction pads on the clutch.
Brake and clutch mechanics can do it, but they often use a grinding stone on brake disc lathe instead of a proper lathe and cutting bit.
If your flywheel has done 190k, it is almost guaranteed it will need machining.

They have a max runout, so who ever does it needs to be aware of it. In the FSM somewhere.

 

[Workhorse]

@CaptBeardilocks

DFISX in Portland Oregon rebuilt my injectors and we’re quick and fairly priced. Rebuilt and bench tested using Denso parts. I’m sure there are other good sources, especially in Canada.

 

[kw90surf]

Subscribed

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yes, 100% genuine Toyota. They are based in Abu Dabi or Dubai...

I’ve used them for around $4k worth of parts (rebuilt a 1hdt, 12ht and 1fzfe).

If you input your vin they’ll give you specific diagrams showing every part number, or if you’re doing a body swap I tend to use TOYOTA | Japan Parts EU as you can search by year/specific trim level.

Carmarka is good providing you spend $150usd or more, if you spend less they charge you a higher handling fee. The shipping costs is a little on the high side (Eg I probably wouldn’t bother ordering something large and light like a battery box) but for seals/gaskets etc it’s a really cheap option.

Btw no affiliation or anything. Just all my landcruisers get completely overhauled and this is the most cost effective way by far.

(Edit - I did actually buy a battery box from them, with shipping it was slightly more expensive than my local dealer, but I ordered a bunch of other small parts which fit inside the box making it very cost effective). Depending what you order the shipping time can be between 48 hours landed at your door, to 2 weeks if stuff is on back order. The crazy thing is they show where the parts are coming from, and some stuff they’ve ordered on back order from Australia to Dubai, packed it in a box and sent it back to me for less than a Australian dealership would selll to me for trade lol

Cheers. Will check them out.

I've used Amayama and partsouq, and been amazed at how quickly I've got parts at times.