18’s a commonly accepted safe limit, but you’ll have to defeat the boost cut (voltage clamp, boost defender, or good chips eg DTE or unichip have them native) to get there, and a chip to keep it there. As for the boost gauge - what about using the factory sensor and using a dongle/smartphone to read boost?
1HD-FTE maintenance and proformance in my hdj79 (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter Indestructible 47
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Indestructible 47
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Thanks, can't say that i have heard about the way that a smartphone will read my boost. Do you care expanding on that one?
You need an elm327 wifi dongle (Bluetooth also works but not well with iPhone). Plug it into the dlc3 port (physically an obd port essentially), get “carscanner” app for iOS (might be others) or torque pro (again maybe others) for Android. You need a custom string with torque pro and pay $5, might have to search for it, it’s fairly well documented.
Once you’re hooked up you can read boost, intake air temp, coolant temp, battery voltage and rpm
Once you’re hooked up you can read boost, intake air temp, coolant temp, battery voltage and rpm
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Indestructible 47
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So I have good and bad news. Start with the good.
DTE chip with a pre loaded tune is on its way as is a pdi and grunter extreme (green wheel) Gturbo. So going to run this for a bit and see how we go. I really don't want to do the clutch at the moment so I'll be running 26psi (ish) which should see me max out my stock injectors. Should be good for 150rwkw and 500 - 550rwnm. Normally should be good for more but I'll explain below.
The bad:
My cruiser is a Sept 01 build. The guys at gturbo swear that they can't make as much power out of the 01 1hd-fte ECUs. The motor is the same, but the ECU is different. I asked if they have put a later ECU in an 01 cruiser, and they said that they hadn't. So, I'm wondering if it would be possible to run a later model ECU in an 01 cruiser? I doubt this has been done before. I'm going to try it if i can find a later ECU thats not outrageous in price. I do expect the later cruisers to be different in wiring though, as they are OBD 2 compatible whereas the 01s are not.
I'll update this thread as this stuff rolls in, should be good.
DTE chip with a pre loaded tune is on its way as is a pdi and grunter extreme (green wheel) Gturbo. So going to run this for a bit and see how we go. I really don't want to do the clutch at the moment so I'll be running 26psi (ish) which should see me max out my stock injectors. Should be good for 150rwkw and 500 - 550rwnm. Normally should be good for more but I'll explain below.
The bad:
My cruiser is a Sept 01 build. The guys at gturbo swear that they can't make as much power out of the 01 1hd-fte ECUs. The motor is the same, but the ECU is different. I asked if they have put a later ECU in an 01 cruiser, and they said that they hadn't. So, I'm wondering if it would be possible to run a later model ECU in an 01 cruiser? I doubt this has been done before. I'm going to try it if i can find a later ECU thats not outrageous in price. I do expect the later cruisers to be different in wiring though, as they are OBD 2 compatible whereas the 01s are not.
I'll update this thread as this stuff rolls in, should be good.
Congrats - it’s going to be a weapon... I’m envious I’d love a DTE and a Gturbo!
As to your question - running a later ecu on an early vehicle is theoretically possible, but you’d have to change the pump and probably spill driver and pedal. Then redo all ecu wiring - big job. I’ve never heard of early ftes being less tuneable, but Gturbo would know.
Also, no hdj100 was ever obd2 (only uzj100), they’re all M-OBD.
As to your question - running a later ecu on an early vehicle is theoretically possible, but you’d have to change the pump and probably spill driver and pedal. Then redo all ecu wiring - big job. I’ve never heard of early ftes being less tuneable, but Gturbo would know.
Also, no hdj100 was ever obd2 (only uzj100), they’re all M-OBD.
Indestructible 47
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Thanks, yeah Gturbo said that they have tried everything but at all power stages the p1 always makes a bit less. I think I may have access to a 06 hdj79, which I will do a wiring harness swap. Big job but i need to clean years of dust out of the dash anyway.
In regards to the pump, the revs are really slow to come down when I change gear. Is this a pump sensor of something?
AussieHJCruza
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Dammit @Indestructible 47 - I'm gonna have to build this 12HT now to drag you off...
Ah sorry I forgot you’re using a 79 motor - my knowledge is mostly 100 orientated. I could well be wrong but I think all 79s used the same wiring (I thought ECUs too but it seems I am wrong here), so you might just be able to swap ECUs over. Although whether that includes pump and spill driver I’m not sure.
79s all have some “rev hang” - supposedly to make gear changing smoother. But if it’s extreme it can be a problem in the pump. There’s also a wire that gets talked about you can cut which can eliminate it or reduce it. Might have to do some searching on Facebook or eBay on that one
As much as I love them and they’re one cool engine, You’re going to struggle to get any 12H-T to compete with even a lightly modded FTE...
AussieHJCruza
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Yeah I realise I've got no chance of beating him, I did that with the Gturboed 1HDT and turbo 1FZ so a bit of a rivalry we've got going. 12HT seems appropriate for the HJ47 tho so I might have to make some sacrifices in the power department
Indestructible 47
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So a bit of an update. I got the gturbo on and the DTE tuning module installed and then promptly managed to find a flock of roos to hit the next day. Long and short of it, first impressions it was insane. Loads of power throughout the rev range. However, the clutch started to slip bad and I didn't yet have the correct silicone hose for the intake to turbo so I limited my driving of it in that state (mocked up a temporary hose for the intake). Anyhow hit the roos, took it in the next day and it has sat at the repairer ever since. (4 weeks ish).
Thankfully, repairs to the suspension are done (New steering damper and swaybar) and whilst the body quote is waiting approval I got the ute back for this weekend. Booked it in for a clutch job on Tuesday.... I couldn't do much better than this clutch:
Well, last night I put the right intake silicone hose on, installed the manual boost controller, tides up a few other things and took it on it's maiden highway run. All was well for the first 15m, then things went pear shaped. First blew the BC t piece off on the compressor side. Fine. Put it back on and clamped it. Then a few kms later, I lost all power. Well, back to stock feeling anyway. So drove it home and parked it up for the night.
This afternoon, started to try and diagnose the issue. Determined that the DTE had power and I had no boost leaks. Then I wound my MBC down to nothing (was on the same setting that I had the stock turbo) and noticed that the turbo was making only 10psi and was super slow to spool (10psi @ 2600). Checked that the hoses were all good, that the wastegate worked as it should. No issues. Pulled the intake hose. Tired to turn the compressor wheel and it was stiff. So I'm feeling a bit angry right now because im staring down a new turbo. Anyhow going to call Gturbo on Monday and see what they say.
Thankfully, repairs to the suspension are done (New steering damper and swaybar) and whilst the body quote is waiting approval I got the ute back for this weekend. Booked it in for a clutch job on Tuesday.... I couldn't do much better than this clutch:
Well, last night I put the right intake silicone hose on, installed the manual boost controller, tides up a few other things and took it on it's maiden highway run. All was well for the first 15m, then things went pear shaped. First blew the BC t piece off on the compressor side. Fine. Put it back on and clamped it. Then a few kms later, I lost all power. Well, back to stock feeling anyway. So drove it home and parked it up for the night.
This afternoon, started to try and diagnose the issue. Determined that the DTE had power and I had no boost leaks. Then I wound my MBC down to nothing (was on the same setting that I had the stock turbo) and noticed that the turbo was making only 10psi and was super slow to spool (10psi @ 2600). Checked that the hoses were all good, that the wastegate worked as it should. No issues. Pulled the intake hose. Tired to turn the compressor wheel and it was stiff. So I'm feeling a bit angry right now because im staring down a new turbo. Anyhow going to call Gturbo on Monday and see what they say.
Fark what rotten luck! Sorry to hear, I've been through something very similar recently with mine and took months to repair after I was hit by a drunk driver.
What happened when the boost controller hose blew off, did the boost spike very high?
What happened when the boost controller hose blew off, did the boost spike very high?
Indestructible 47
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Yeah it sucks a bit but that's life. Insurance is nicely paying for some upgrades so that's ok.
The boost stayed the same throughout, which was actually not much at all because I was on a very slight decline. Thinking I'm going a red wheel vortex and +70 Injectors seeing as I have a clutch and IC that will take it.
Do you have to send it back to Gturbo for them to see whether it was just a faulty turbo or warranty claim?
Regretting you got the smaller green wheel already and stepping up to the red wheel
Regretting you got the smaller green wheel already and stepping up to the red wheel
Indestructible 47
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I haven't talked to gturbo yet, I'll call them on Monday and see what they say. Defo bearings I reckon, turbo will make 18psi but feels like I have an exhaust brake on the whole time.Do you have to send it back to Gturbo for them to see whether it was just a faulty turbo or warranty claim?
Regretting you got the smaller green wheel already and stepping up to the red wheel
Nah not regretting the green wheel, it's just now that I have a 76mm PDI and a NPC 1300nm clutch most of the infrastructure is there to make massive power. All I'm gunna need is +70 Injectors, airbox and the DTE retuned and I'm starring down 280+rwkw and 900+rwnm. The other thing is the red wheel vortex will run fine on the tune I have now so I can't see why I would go green wheel again with what I have.
Indestructible 47
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Called and spoke to the guys a Gturbo and it's going back to them. Can't speak highly enough of the customer service that I have received. Whatever happens, the grunter is not coming back, a red wheel vortex is in it's place. Gunning for 260+rwkw and 900+nm which they say is a minimum with +70 injectors
@Indestructible 47 Do you know what's different between the two on the hotside? Do they still use the same turbine wheel and maybe just a larger housing? I've seen the vortex green with the smaller turbine and 12 blades but never the red so I've always been curious.
Indestructible 47
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Sorry mate I don't know 100%. I'm still learning about the way a turbo works, coming in hot tho
So weird experience today. Dropped the ute off last night with the poor turbo symptoms to have the clutch changed and aircon regassed. Never told them about the turbo issue. So picked the ute up this arvo and like magic it's definitely making more power again. Still a little funny noise but I'm stumped. I and they changed nothing. Didn't step on it, trying to have a little bit of respect for the clutch at this stage. Any idea's?
David*BJ70
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You mentioned it was hard to spin the comp wheel by hand which means its either something failed in the bearings or a wheel rubbing on the housing. Are both housings secure and in place as they should be, the big circlip holding the comp housing in place is a common issue. Could also be a faulty oil seal not seated properly and now jamming the shaft, are you getting any oil passing from either end? So many things it could be until you take it out and inspect
Indestructible 47
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I'm beginning to think that the turbo needs new bearings. Only because it's making a funny noise. Took it for a drive today and it was making power as it should. After about 25 mins though, it suddenly reverted to it's tricks again. Feeling sceptical about it being the turbo I pulled the chip out and put the blank in. Absolutely the same, with and without the chip. So I'm getting no fuel. Making boost but no fuel. I know I have not wired the positive wire like gturbo want but this is because I can't see what they mean or find the right cable. Maybe someone can shed some light on this for me?
