1HD-FTE fuel pump (2 Viewers)

[meps161091]

Hi all,

Recently brought a new to me landcruiser - im impressed with it!

But last week it died on me, engine management light came on, no power.

Quick google brought up the accelerator position sensor plug, on the top left of the engine, checked all the plugs, seemed fine, even did the wiggle test, no change.

I googled how to read the computer on the landcruiser - which brought me here to learn and setup Techstream on my Mac using Virtual box (thanks too all those that documented that!!)

Using Techstream I was about to get the code 14(4) which was described as a Timing Control System Malfunction - sounds expensive!!

A deeper google with the above brought up the sensors on the fuel pump, the spill valve, timing control valve, engine speed sensor, fuel temp sensor and another sensor (forget its name)

So I went inspecting them plugs and wires - someone has already been in there as the wires where cut, soldered and insulated before -- so I re-did them all, without any luck.
I had the exact same issue as this post - but they dont mention the part number

Thats when I came across links to individual pages of the FSM like this

Which then lead me to a complete PDF of the FSM, which listed readings for the sensors resistence - which I tested them all, sure enough the Timing Control Valve was the culpit, I think it was reading about 200 ohms, when it should be 10 - 14 ohms.

Next task - no one, not even toyota want to sell you that part, they want you to buy a full pump......so your faced with buying a recondition pump for....say about £1k here in the UK, just because a sensor goes bad.
My dad has an 80 series with the 1hdt in it.....even though I like the power of the 1hdfte, that motor and pump seems much more bullet proof than this combo right now.

Anyway tracked down a sensor - for those in a similar position who have tested the timing control valve resistance and are looking for a part number, this is it - denso 096360-0580

I found it stocked locally only an hour away from me at this place - Denso Suction Control Valve 096360-0580

So I was really lucky.

Fitting it consisted of taking off about 3 injector pipes, the pump stay bracket on the back and undoing the two bolts that held it in - pretty simple to do through the passenger wheel arch.

Although now seems to be more ticky that what I remember :/ so thats something I need to keep an eye on.
Anyone have any recommendations for a pump thats a bit "ticky"?

Any questions ask away

Liam

 

[Moridinbg]

Pump needs recalibration. These pumps are really well made to exceptionally small tolerances. The pressures there are closer to a common rail engine, than to the 80s mechanical pump. They are usually good for 500-600 000km, before starting to need (expensive) rebuild.
Older pumps usually deliver less fuel once warm and are noisier. In the UK it's £700-800 to calibrate it on a diesel bench, but there are few places that are familiar with the pump and have the equipment to do this kind of pumps. It's Denso ECD V4.
You can find the repair manual for it online, but there are specialised tools needed to service it and a bench to run it and set fuel delivery - http://gershon.ucoz.com/Denso/injpumpECDV3-5/tnvddenso-s-klap.pdf

I am having mine done at the moment by Shaun at Denso
The cruiser was running great, acceleration, speed, etc, but was making 15% less power on the dyno and was "ticky". Turns out pump was delivering 20% less fuel when hot, the fuel temperature sensor was out of whack and the feed pump had lost some pressure.

 

[meps161091]

Pump needs recalibration. These pumps are really well made to exceptionally small tolerances. The pressures there are closer to a common rail engine, than to the 80s mechanical pump. They are usually good for 500-600 000km, before starting to need (expensive) rebuild.
Older pumps usually deliver less fuel once warm and are noisier. In the UK it's £700-800 to calibrate it on a diesel bench, but there are few places that are familiar with the pump and have the equipment to do this kind of pumps. It's Denso ECD V4.
You can find the repair manual for it online, but there are specialised tools needed to service it and a bench to run it and set fuel delivery - http://gershon.ucoz.com/Denso/injpumpECDV3-5/tnvddenso-s-klap.pdf

I am having mine done at the moment by Shaun at Denso
The cruiser was running great, acceleration, speed, etc, but was making 15% less power on the dyno and was "ticky". Turns out pump was delivering 20% less fuel when hot, the fuel temperature sensor was out of whack and the feed pump had lost some pressure.

Thank you for the information, very informative!

Where are you based, in the UK?
How fast can Shaun recalibrate them? This is my daily drive, but I could do without it for a week.

Currently im just monitoring the ticky noise from the pump, but dont want to damage anything in the engine

 

[Moridinbg]

No, not in the UK, but in the EU.
He is not fast. Maybe if you are upfront that you are in a hurry it might be different.
You can give them a call and just chat and ask about the ticking noise.

 

[meps161091]

No, not in the UK, but in the EU.
He is not fast. Maybe if you are upfront that you are in a hurry it might be different.
You can give them a call and just chat and ask about the ticking noise.

Thanks,

Just phoned him and spoke for 20mins, he was very reasuring, gave me a few points to explore and try, but reassured me these are noisey in their injection process by nature - and maybe it was the timing control value on the way out that made the pump so quiet, and now its working, its much more noisey

No wonder they put a inch of cover around them

 

[l3n0x]

Mine is also ticky, I thought that was normal (I've listened to 4-5 fte's and they where all ticky). I'd use it until it starts acting up, instead of doing preventive maintance on it.
Good find on the pdf and tcvalve!

One question though you guys might now the answer to:
I've replaced all 6 pipes last year as good measure, but one of them is leaking a very-very-very tiny amount at the injector (just some diesel mist accumulation over 10k km's). Is it worth to touch it and try to torque the nut on it further (which would mean I have to remove the intake cross-over-elbow, as sadly it blocks getting a wrench there), or should I just leave it as chaces are it would only get worse if I'd touch it?

 

[meps161091]

Mine is also ticky, I thought that was normal (I've listened to 4-5 fte's and they where all ticky). I'd use it until it starts acting up, instead of doing preventive maintance on it.
Good find on the pdf and tcvalve!

One question though you guys might now the answer to:
I've replaced all 6 pipes last year as good measure, but one of them is leaking a very-very-very tiny amount at the injector (just some diesel mist accumulation over 10k km's). Is it worth to touch it and try to torque the nut on it further (which would mean I have to remove the intake cross-over-elbow, as sadly it blocks getting a wrench there), or should I just leave it as chaces are it would only get worse if I'd touch it?

Yes, im starting to understand now the ticky sound might just be normal, i only have my dads 80 4.2 1hdt machanical pump for reference.

Shaun who runs/part owns the company mentioned above, did say to check any of the rubber pipes going to the pump, as the pump is always sucking, IIRC he mentioned about it returning about a 1 litre of fuel every second to the tank as they are self bleeding pumps, the air will cause a ticking sound and will ruin the pump, so I will check that now. But it shows how much pressure that pump is creating to pull the fuel upto the engine.

The injector pipe leaking might mean one injector doesnt get the pressure it needs - these are 2 stage injectors, so one piston might be running lean.
its probably just not seated right on the injector?

 

[Moridinbg]

As a reference for other people in the future, here is the rough pricing I got from Shaun before sending the pump.

njectors are £60.00 each to service

Service pump test and calibrate £780.00
Pump service kit £140.70
Accumulator £160.47
Advance Control valve £72.74
Transfer pressure regulator £92.30

These are the parts fitted to the pump we just did. Yours could need less or different parts but they are typical. All is plus VAT.

I received similar prices from a few other places in the UK that I checked, but Shaun sounded the most knowledgeable.
I know of one place in France that does them and one in Spain.

Back in the day Toyota was doing complete replacement when something went wrong. Unconfirmed info is that there was a single Toyota place that was working on them.
This kind of pumps are extremely rare, compared to the normal mechanical distributor pumps or the now ubiquitous common rail systems and few places handle them. On the other hand they are very, very well made and apart from the general wear at around 500 000km or the occasional corroded cables on the SCV valve, they hardly ever go wrong. And even at the 500k mark they will usually just deliver less fuel > less power, but otherwise can run for a few hundred k more.

 

[meps161091]

So its back....the dreaded DCT 14(4) Timing control valve malfunction....

I noticed different symptoms this time around....a few days ago I head the engine sound change - I now know thats it advancing/retarding the injection timing to protect itself.
It intially was for like .5 a second, so thought it was a blip, then yesterday the engine light came and and the change in engine pitch again.
Starts fine, runs fine for the first 5mins then iradic between ok and low power.
Today I get the reduced power straight away, so much so going up a hill is a struggle.

So picked the FSM up again DI-24 and FU-113 are the sections to refer to for this issue.

FU-113 is step 1 of the DI-24, which is testing all the sensors - all checked out ok...to my suprise.
FU-113 for reference gives the readings and diagnostics steps.

Speed sensor - should be 205-255 Ohms - 253 Ohms read
Spill control valve - should be 1-2 Ohms - 1.3 Ohms read
Timing control valve - should be 10-14 Ohms - 11.7 Ohms read - was only replaced 3 months ago
Timing control value - apply 12v and should hear a click - confirmed working as should

Although I did read these when they might have been a bit warmer, so will double check again tonight.

Ive just checked the ECU E17 plug which is step 2 of the DI-24
pin 11 on the connector should have 9-14V with ignition on which should mean the ECD relay is closing/opening which ignition power

So just to check the ECU pin out...hope I dont have to replace ECU!! or get the pump rebuilt.

Strange I am getting the DCT 14 but the sensor checks out ok....I will double check I have a good connection on the pins of the sensor again later when I re-check.

Tough gig this V4 pump, im not liking the electronic gremlins!

Any pointers welcome!

 

[meps161091]

So just been out and checked sensors on the pump again.


Speed sensor - should be 205-255 Ohms - 230 Ohms read
Spill control valve - should be 1-2 Ohms - 1.2 Ohms read
Timing control valve - should be 10-14 Ohms - 11 Ohms read

all a bit lower due to reduced temps outside.

I checked both the connector pin and the ecu terminal for power on pin 11 on ignition on. Pin 3 which is the ground also has 10v across it which I thought was strange - time to look into wiring diagrams

 

[meps161091]

Fired up fine this morning, no engine light on.

Will take it for a longer run in a bit, heat might be the issue as it gets worse and worse as I drive

 

[Moridinbg]

Engine light and loss of power once warmed up is a pretty sure sign of a worn pump. My pump was delivering 80% fuel when warmed up (no engine light though) and there are a few old threads on lcool.org and www.tlocuk.co.uk that descibe the same issues.

 

[meps161091]

So this plug is the culprit, it’s the plug onto the timing control valve and if I push it in a certain direction it causes the engine to retard/advance in its injection timing.
I’ve cut it off and have removed the pins from the plug, which were pretty beaten up.
All straightened up and ready to go back in now.

thank gord it wasn’t a pump rebuild or the ECU gone.

 

[Moridinbg]

Happy to be proven wrong This was the best possible outcome.

 

[l3n0x]

One question though you guys might now the answer to:
I've replaced all 6 pipes last year as good measure, but one of them is leaking a very-very-very tiny amount at the injector (just some diesel mist accumulation over 10k km's). Is it worth to touch it and try to torque the nut on it further (which would mean I have to remove the intake cross-over-elbow, as sadly it blocks getting a wrench there), or should I just leave it as chaces are it would only get worse if I'd touch it?

Can anyone help me please with this? I’ve tightened the nut a bit more, but after 1-2k km’s I can see the very very tiny yellowish-oily tint/mist again on the nut What now?

 

[Feroz]

Thanks for the info. Mine is leaking from that same valve. I can't seem to locate one. Kindly advise where you managed to buy one.