- Thread starter
- #401
Oh, yes, you are right. I remember that. Nate is correct
Builds 1FZFE overhaul (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter concretejungle
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #402
UPDATE:
IMHO the power steering system that Toyota has on these trucks, and pretty much in general, sucks. I have a new pump, new hoses, new PS cooler and my junk still leaks!! WTF
Anyways, i can deal with it as i have no groaning and no whining, but it does leak just a little and considering everything is clean and neat, it pisses me off.
I also was fighting a PO420 code. I have a new exhaust on from the down pipe back (2.5 inch pipe, dynamax muffler and flow master cat). I checked all the welds and they are tight with no leaks. My O2 sensors are still in good shape and only have about 40,000 miles on them... kept searching and realized that the flange where the exhaust manifold mates to the exhaust pipe was leaking like crazy, even with new OEM gaskets in place. I could feel the motor cutting back as i was driving compensating for the leak.
So, i went to the parts store and picked up a tube of exhaust joint putty. Took the manifold off and cleaned it up really well, put new studs in and a little putty around the OEM gasket. Put it back together, watched the putty mash out so i know it was a good seal and torqued it down. So far, no leaks and no check engine light. The idle is super smooth and it shifts smooth too. Pretty happy about that.
I'm fixing to pull the trigger on a snorkel and rebuild the front axle. The axle has 100,000 miles since the last rebuild and is just starting to leak at the knuckle.
IMHO the power steering system that Toyota has on these trucks, and pretty much in general, sucks. I have a new pump, new hoses, new PS cooler and my junk still leaks!! WTF
Anyways, i can deal with it as i have no groaning and no whining, but it does leak just a little and considering everything is clean and neat, it pisses me off.
I also was fighting a PO420 code. I have a new exhaust on from the down pipe back (2.5 inch pipe, dynamax muffler and flow master cat). I checked all the welds and they are tight with no leaks. My O2 sensors are still in good shape and only have about 40,000 miles on them... kept searching and realized that the flange where the exhaust manifold mates to the exhaust pipe was leaking like crazy, even with new OEM gaskets in place. I could feel the motor cutting back as i was driving compensating for the leak.
So, i went to the parts store and picked up a tube of exhaust joint putty. Took the manifold off and cleaned it up really well, put new studs in and a little putty around the OEM gasket. Put it back together, watched the putty mash out so i know it was a good seal and torqued it down. So far, no leaks and no check engine light. The idle is super smooth and it shifts smooth too. Pretty happy about that.
I'm fixing to pull the trigger on a snorkel and rebuild the front axle. The axle has 100,000 miles since the last rebuild and is just starting to leak at the knuckle.
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- Jan 16, 2003
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Alex did you replace the o-ring on the suction port? I had this exact issue last week and I replaced it and have no problems since.
- Thread starter
- #404
Greg, enlighten me on this suction port? Where is that? Are you talking about on the PS pump? I replaced all the o-rings and gaskets on the pump.
- Joined
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Yes the suction port is the from the reservoir to the pump. It is the port that has the small flange and bolts down with a 12mm head. Suction port has a small o-ring on it. I didn't replace it the first time and it was leaking from there. Pulled the port and replaced oring and all is well.
On another note, your power steering gear, did you ever swap it over to the new pump? I ask because I have the same tick and have a new pump. I am just slightly shy of flush and gear doesn't appear to be damaged. I am going to purchase another one this week but was curious if you swapped them from back when you just swapped in the old pump off donor 80.
On another note, your power steering gear, did you ever swap it over to the new pump? I ask because I have the same tick and have a new pump. I am just slightly shy of flush and gear doesn't appear to be damaged. I am going to purchase another one this week but was curious if you swapped them from back when you just swapped in the old pump off donor 80.
- Thread starter
- #406
I did. It was a matter of getting it to seat fully. I was pretty surprised at how difficult it was to get it to seat. I ended up using 600 grit sandpaper to smooth down the "shaft" that the gear sits on, then took a socket and hammered it down. No ticking!
- Thread starter
- #408
sure was!
- Thread starter
- #410
I figured i could give an update.
Since the rebuild, i have added the TRD supercharger. I plan on adding an intercooler and a smaller pulley in the near future.
I have also driven the truck across the US several times, wheeled some incredible trails, explored extremely remote areas and felt confident that things are solid. The motor oil still looks extremely clean after 4,000 mile trips.
To fix the PO420 problem i ordered an O2 sensor simulator from mud member lilevo. I think that this is a great addition considering if you ever have an exhaust leak, you will not toss a code. I had this happen when heading out to Moab, Ut and the truck still ran great considering the leak.
And, to bring closure to the "tapping" noise that myself and many thought was a valve... it was the gear chatter from the power steering pump gear not being seated fully.
Since the rebuild, i have added the TRD supercharger. I plan on adding an intercooler and a smaller pulley in the near future.
I have also driven the truck across the US several times, wheeled some incredible trails, explored extremely remote areas and felt confident that things are solid. The motor oil still looks extremely clean after 4,000 mile trips.
To fix the PO420 problem i ordered an O2 sensor simulator from mud member lilevo. I think that this is a great addition considering if you ever have an exhaust leak, you will not toss a code. I had this happen when heading out to Moab, Ut and the truck still ran great considering the leak.
And, to bring closure to the "tapping" noise that myself and many thought was a valve... it was the gear chatter from the power steering pump gear not being seated fully.
Regarding the nut on the gear, what to you use to hold the gear while you tighten the nut? I used a rubber wrap type wrench, but not sure if I got it tight enough. Anyone remember or know the torque spec on that nut?
- Thread starter
- #412
I used a vice with two thin pieces of wood to clamp on the gear. Regarding tightening, i don't recall any torque specs, so we just used the impact gun to run it down.... BUT, this is important as you must make sure the gear is fully seated. If not then it will tick. So, measure the old gear anyway you feel comfortable and then run the new gear down to the same place no matter what the torque is.
Awesome thread. About 2 months ago I pulled my engine for a rebuild/refresh. I had low compression and was blowing blue smoke. I probably read through this thread several (more like 10) times. I really appreciate how you shared the pitfalls you encountered. Once I tore mine apart all internal pieces were still within spec except for worn bearings and rings. I reringed, put in new bearings honed the cylinder walls and put it back together. Late in the game I noticed wear on the oil pump drive gear bushing. Thankfully I was able to get a new one from NLXTACY and replace it. I had the head redone by a local shop (550 bucks) and put it all back together. Started dropping it in this last Saturday and it fired up first try on Tuesday. The FSM was key, but this thread helped me with a lot of the planning and parts ordering. It was a ton of work, but very satisfying in the end. Not a brand new motor but hopefully it should be good for another 250k.
Thanks
I did forget to mark one wire and initially had it misplaced in the picture above. Thankfully, it just didn't feel like it was in the right place. I had to drive over to my buddies house and look at his to correct my error.
Thanks
I did forget to mark one wire and initially had it misplaced in the picture above. Thankfully, it just didn't feel like it was in the right place. I had to drive over to my buddies house and look at his to correct my error.
- Thread starter
- #415
Love seeing another successful rebuild! It's sure satisfying when it fires up. 
NorCalFJ100
SILVER Star
Great thread! Thanks for all the info!! I am currently in the process of the same thing for my 80.
- Thread starter
- #417
glad i could contribute to Mud! So much great information here.
My rebuild is still going strong and hope it does for years to come.
My rebuild is still going strong and hope it does for years to come.
I'm reading this over and over whilst part way through assembling my new short block from Beno,...I'm doing well so far and pulled the entire driveline by myself with no damage...did order a new harness and blank offs for the egr...I'm not going to let the harness get destroyed by unessecary heat again,...mountains of marke ziplock backs with bolts and nuts adorn my buddy's hangar, along with the pile of parts from Beno, and parts taken from the truck in its dissassembly, I have many pictures but you post and pictures are of great value and will keep me on track and hopefully installed by next weekend...
HOLA necesito me orienten por favor, donde se conecta el manometro de presion de gasolina para hacer las pruebas de presion de gasolina les agradezco sus fotos
y cual es las medidas que debo tener en cuenta de PSI y otra, mi camioneta es fzj80 fzfe, 4500 ccc 1994 gracias
y cual es las medidas que debo tener en cuenta de PSI y otra, mi camioneta es fzj80 fzfe, 4500 ccc 1994 gracias
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