1FZE Naturally Aspirated Upgrade (CLOSED) (1 Viewer)

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Mar 12, 2018
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Doha Qatar
Ops ! Radiator is filled with normal water as opposed to coolant.

I heard the water boiling in the radiator !

Ill flush it out and add OEM coolant

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Joined
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This weeks goal (drivetrain):

* I already inspected the front and rear driveshafts and axels, the rear wheel hubs and bearings, they are in good condition.

1. Install 4.88 Nitro gears on the front and rear differentials, with new bearings.

2. Inspect transfer case as well as install mars4wd part-time 4WD kit with manual front hubs (contemplating whether I should install this kit since I already have a part-time transfer case).

3. Install rear ARB diff locker.

4. After breaking in the front and rear diffs, test it on the dyno to see if the differentials or transfer case were the issues. If it still not outputting more power I will inspect the transmission.
 
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Joined
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552
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Doha Qatar
Update:

I have completed this week's checklist, excluding the manual hubs, since I did not see any benefit of installing them, I still need to keep the center diff lock switch which already engages and disengages 4WD so not interested.

I am almost done breaking in the new 4.88 ring and pinion, mostly high way driving with 4WD engaged. I went back to the electronic muffler and reinstalled the OEM tail pipe resonator since it was to loud to drive around town + drone is obnoxious while crusing around the dunes. Now it sounds like stock and with a push of a button I get a straight-through muffler like before, however there is a small HP loss doesn't really matter though since now I can drive it around town! that's more than worth 8-12whp. 6-2-1 TRY-Y Headers were swapped with 6-1 long tubes with 1 7/8 primaries and a 3.5 inch collector, little too large for my liking but I got a good deal on it.

While my drivetrain was being worked on, I decided to install a 101mm stroker crankshaft from brian crower, I got the complete kit with 102mm bore CP pistons and steel connecting rods from BC as opposed to OEM. I exchanged my ROSS pistons and new OEM connecting rods however I kept the factory crankshaft.

Once the stroker kit was installed it was broken in at the garage, then when the lockers and 4.88 ring and pinons were installed I I took the vehicle and am now breaking the new ring and pinions. Mostly highway driving with 4WD engaged to work the front diff as well.

My engine displacement is currently 4.95L

Once I finish breaking in the ring and pinions I will take it to the dyno to see the results.

Brief Summary:

1. Installed nitro gear 4.88 ring and pinion with new bearings.

2. Installed rear ARB locker with air compressor.

3. Installed BrianCrower 101mm stroker crankshaft with 102 MM CP Pistons with BC steel connecting rods, current displacement 4.95L

3. Replaced 6-2-1 headers with 6-1 headers

4. Replaced downpipe straight-through muffler with electronic muffler and reinstalled factory resonator.

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Alpharetta GA
Except if you look at the land cruisers he posts pictures of, the rear tires have almost no tread on them. I think they do burnouts for distance or something...
 
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Amazing unexpected MPG gains from the stroker kit!

My previous max when the 1fze was bone stock was 420 km(260 miles)

And now I reached 560km (347 mile) without a single refill ! With A/C on and a rough mix of 70% highway 30 % city. I still had a bit in the tank left since when I refilled It did not fill up to 140L , impressive !

Increased stroke better thermal efficiency I guess + more compression and I’m using 95 octane pump gas ?, just imagine if I tuned the MOTEC for max fuel economy (lean air fuel ratio) it would even better ! Since I’m running slightly on the rich side

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Joined
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Did you ever figure out the hp loss differences between yours and the other truck's drivetrain? Any Idea what manual transmission they had that was maybe different than yours?

Still on the quest to find out the issue, right now since its a 101 mm stroker “I should” be getting around 350 whp (MINIMUM) to 380whp on their dyno thats the average stroker power output. So the power target is higher now.

Right now the differentials are out of the equation since when the nitro ring and pinons were getting installed on the differentials I inspected the stock ones and they were in good shape, its either than transfer case or the transmission, I think its the transmission since its hard to shift sometimes and it does not go into fourth gear properly unless I double clutch and rev match. Ill probably end up with a new manual trans.

Regardless I will be taking it to the dyno this week to get a bassline and see how it does with the new final drive ratio.
 
Joined
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Guys I measured the weight of the 16 Lexus alloy wheel that was used in the other lc100 that had my engine on the dyno and it was 9.2kg (20lbs) and my steel wheels are 13.5 kg (29.7 lbs) , so a unsprung weight reduction of 4.3 kg ( 9.47 lbs ) per corner

enough to have significant performance gains ?
 
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