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- #121
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1FZE Naturally Aspirated Upgrade (CLOSED) (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #122
I am thinking of regearing to a higher final drive ratio, nitrogear 4.88. More wheel torque for the sand dunes, + faster acceleration. Since the powerband is shifted higher with the engine work, I assume It would be easier to stay on the higher powerband with a higher final drive ratio.
Chime in please if you have any thoughts on this.
Chime in please if you have any thoughts on this.
dewd.....its not all about horsepower......its about power to weight ratio.
go back to the drawing board and get yourself a sawzall and an old fj55 series.
at 4000lbs - my gen1 1fz is making around 254.4hp effectively and $0 spent on motor....
In your country- id just grab a carbon fiber hood- rear hatch and tailgate- cloth front seats and lightweight racing battery and some jumper cables (lol) and maybe aluminum control arms.....and you will have shaved close to 1000lbs and added an effective 45hp..................and 20% less weight means your axles are 20% stronger.
go back to the drawing board and get yourself a sawzall and an old fj55 series.
at 4000lbs - my gen1 1fz is making around 254.4hp effectively and $0 spent on motor....
In your country- id just grab a carbon fiber hood- rear hatch and tailgate- cloth front seats and lightweight racing battery and some jumper cables (lol) and maybe aluminum control arms.....and you will have shaved close to 1000lbs and added an effective 45hp..................and 20% less weight means your axles are 20% stronger.
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Man, I forgot about "bacon bits"; love that build.dewd.....its not all about horsepower......its about power to weight ratio.
go back to the drawing board and get yourself a sawzall and an old fj55 series.
at 4000lbs - my gen1 1fz is making around 254.4hp effectively and $0 spent on motor....
In your country- id just grab a carbon fiber hood- rear hatch and tailgate- cloth front seats and lightweight racing battery and some jumper cables (lol) and maybe aluminum control arms.....and you will have shaved close to 1000lbs and added an effective 45hp.
View attachment 2443760
THAT is bad ass!!dewd.....its not all about horsepower......its about power to weight ratio.
go back to the drawing board and get yourself a sawzall and an old fj55 series.
at 4000lbs - my gen1 1fz is making around 254.4hp effectively and $0 spent on motor....
In your country- id just grab a carbon fiber hood- rear hatch and tailgate- cloth front seats and lightweight racing battery and some jumper cables (lol) and maybe aluminum control arms.....and you will have shaved close to 1000lbs and added an effective 45hp.
View attachment 2443760
the comments(I see a 55 in my future...)
- Thread starter
- #126
dewd.....its not all about horsepower......its about power to weight ratio.
go back to the drawing board and get yourself a sawzall and an old fj55 series.
at 4000lbs - my gen1 1fz is making around 254.4hp effectively and $0 spent on motor....
In your country- id just grab a carbon fiber hood- rear hatch and tailgate- cloth front seats and lightweight racing battery and some jumper cables (lol) and maybe aluminum control arms.....and you will have shaved close to 1000lbs and added an effective 45hp..................and 20% less weight means your axles are 20% stronger.
View attachment 2443760
I 100% agree with you. Power to weight ratio is what really matters.
I have a side by side with 220hp (120 foot pounds of torque) weighs roughly 1500 pounds and man its fast !
Carbon hood, seats, race battery, lightweight wheels, race cloth seats. All these options are available in the garage that are working on my LC right now, and all those parts are ready to fit on my LC100, its tempting. I might do it.
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thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Hell, may as well get Kirkey seats
Hey! What happened to this post???? I liked the part about taking the number plate off and out running the cops! Haha
- Thread starter
- #130
Yeah I couldent explain it well so I decided to just not explain it
its strange how it works here , our culture with the land cruisers etc
So are you going to get a lighter clutch plate next and replace the harmonic balancer with something lighter ? 
What is your compression ratio? You said you had the heads port n polished. Did you have them flow benched before and after porting? Stage 2 cam may be holding you back if after horsepower. What is your red line rpm? More rpm can mean more hp with the right cams.
- Thread starter
- #133
1. No idea what my compression is, but its higher than stock, when I get an answer ill write it down here.
2. Heads were not flow benched unfortunately, they did not have the equipment.
3. Redline rpm is where the powerband ends, 100+ more than stock so 5600.
4. We already swapped stage 2 cames to a stage 4 cam which is much more aggressive. We will be swapping to a completely different cam again as with some other changes this week, I got promised 300whp, only time will tell.
- Thread starter
- #134
So are you going to get a lighter clutch plate next and replace the harmonic balancer with something lighter ?
This is what i was talking about ,this is a fully stripped lc , they offer stages of how light you want it.
Following 
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- #136
UPDATE:
It's been a while guys. This is an update to the quest to reach 300+whp in my 1FZE without touching the crank.
The engine is still being worked on, I have still not used it since last time, unfortunately. The reason it took so long was that I had to get yet another set of cams custom ground this time with the same duration as the previous cam but with a tighter lobe separation, from 112 degrees to 108 degrees.
The second change is the most recent one which actually just got done today, and that is a CNC head port and polish, as opposed to the in house hand made port and polish.
I am hoping to get the picture of the powerband and some videos of the engine in use at the dunes, by the end of this week, and I hope I don't get any more delays.
I'm stoked and I can't wait to finally use it.
In Summary:
1. Tighter lobe cams (112-108)
2. CNC head port and polish.
3. Miscellaneous fixes such as the transfer case actuator not engaging 4WD , throttle cable lazy and stiff feel and the clutch pedal being to far and loose.
It's been a while guys. This is an update to the quest to reach 300+whp in my 1FZE without touching the crank.
The engine is still being worked on, I have still not used it since last time, unfortunately. The reason it took so long was that I had to get yet another set of cams custom ground this time with the same duration as the previous cam but with a tighter lobe separation, from 112 degrees to 108 degrees.
The second change is the most recent one which actually just got done today, and that is a CNC head port and polish, as opposed to the in house hand made port and polish.
I am hoping to get the picture of the powerband and some videos of the engine in use at the dunes, by the end of this week, and I hope I don't get any more delays.
I'm stoked and I can't wait to finally use it.
In Summary:
1. Tighter lobe cams (112-108)
2. CNC head port and polish.
3. Miscellaneous fixes such as the transfer case actuator not engaging 4WD , throttle cable lazy and stiff feel and the clutch pedal being to far and loose.
This IS a 105 series head, correct ? Or did they mill away the quench pads in the combustion chamber ? It looks good. What change in the compression ratio did the porting/polishing of the chamber bring about ? I’ll bet you’ll be able to hear that change in LSA. bumpity bump.
bumpity bump.- Thread starter
- #138
This IS a 105 series head, correct ? Or did they mill away the quench pads in the combustion chamber ? It looks good. What change in the compression ratio did the porting/polishing of the chamber bring about ? I’ll bet you’ll be able to hear that change in LSA.
100 series, in the Middle East the 100 series comes in trims of which includes the 1FZE, and the 4.7 V8
And yes I am anticipating the choppier idle definitely
This would be what I like to call the Gen II 1FZFE head. Different combustion chambers, different intake ports, different intake, distributor-less ignition, different rods and pistons.
If you’re going for all out performance this is the head to start with. As long as you’re ok adapting their ECU or running stand-alone.
If you’re going for all out performance this is the head to start with. As long as you’re ok adapting their ECU or running stand-alone.
This IS a 105 series head, correct ? Or did they mill away the quench pads in the combustion chamber ? It looks good. What change in the compression ratio did the porting/polishing of the chamber bring about ? I’ll bet you’ll be able to hear that change in LSA.
