1FZE Naturally Aspirated Upgrade (CLOSED) (1 Viewer)

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I also regret my decision on selecting the RXT Mcleod for my RIG, which is great for comfort and after about 2k miles of testing it its pretty smooth and very driveable while also having great clamping force, however it does not have the "signature Mcleod hesitation tone" that the MagForce clutch offers. The Mcleod MagForce clutch for the 1FZE is the most popular and known clutch here in Qatar for any 1FZE motor.

I will be swapping my Mcleod RXT with the Mcleod Magforce next week since it was out of stock.

The hesitation sound comes from the sheer clamping force that shakes the rear diff housing and causes that well-known sound which is music to our "Qatari" ears lol. However, I will have to bare with the stiffness of the clutch, it will be a lot more of a headache to drive, anything for that adrenaline rush though.

Magforce sound(credits: 3K, qatar454hotmail, mahmoud alzarouni, Mesfer Alahbabi) :


Magorce pic:

Magforce.JPG
 
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Update:

My rig just got done, the new electric puller fans are now successfully connected to the MOTEC M130 ECU and now they turn off and on and operate at different speeds depending on the water temp.

The new head gasket is very slightly thicker than the previous one. It is a steel gasket from cosmetic.

We ran it on the dyno today and it got 304 whp slightly flucating up and down between runs. Torque is at 295 which is a major improvment with the stroker, before the stroker the torque was at 255 so the stroker crankshaft mainly contributed to a much flatter and better torque curve

I also requested to make the backfire louder when the switch is on, my other request for the tuner was to let the rev limiter bounce slowly like the stock ECU however he said it is not possible on M1 motecs only on the older gold box ones where they default to a slower rev bounce (similar to stock) as opposed to the current “rrrrrrr” sound which I don’t like at all. When the backfire switch is on though it does bounce slower which I am happy with.

I also decided to remove the right side spal pusher fan in front of the radiator since it’s pointless to have two auxiliary fans upfront it would just be blocking airflow at medium to high speeds.

I will update you guys in the water temps with the new electric fan setup when I go test it in the dunes tommorow.

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Raced against a stock 2018 LC200 , roiling race, started off in second gear.


Water temps seem really good so far, did not exceed 90 degrees Celsius yet. However the factory gauge sometimes throws me off by being all the way up to the H. Must be busted.

average temp is around 70-75 Celsius

Mechanical fan delete:

One thing I do like is that there is no more loud whine noise when you rev it up on low speeds.

No noticeable difference in power after the clutch fan delete, though maybe just a little bit more responsive, could be fooling myself though.
 
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Jeez, blew the head gasket again today at the dunes. When I checked the radiator it was fairly empty.

No choice but to go with the PWR radiator now + a new lower temp thermostat just in case.

Issue is the water temp gauge goes over 90 and the factory gauge is all the way up ?!

I thought 105+ was overheating


DF196B8A-F05D-40C2-85C5-296AF7903384.jpeg
 
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So I added around 5 liters of coolant to the radiator and drove it home from the dunes, going slow it drove fine however it did hesitate and stutter a few times on low rpm, probably the coolant getting mixed with the oil inside the engine, temperature was fine since I was driving slowly around 2.5k rpm on the highway, the temperature went right to the H when I got home and it started hesitating a lot turned it off immediately (lucky me, just arrived home at this point) and parked it with the momentum I had while it was off , Ill add coolant again and take it to the garage tomorrow for another head gasket replacement and the aluminum radiator from PWR + a new lower temp thermostat from "Exceed Performance". If its starts. stuttering tomorrow again then Ill have to tow it.


One thing to keep in mind, I talked to the engine builder today and he told me to trust the factory gauge more than the added water temp gauge to my surprise ?! Well that kind of makes the temp gauge seem useless...

+ I remembered two months ago before I installed the new OEM radiator, while breaking the engine in the temperature barely went over the white mark, what could this tell me?, well that might mean the new radiator I purchased is not working as well ??. I was not paying as much attention to the water temps as I am now. All the more reason to go with the new aluminum radiator.
 

AussieHJCruza

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[QUOTE="ToyotaIsLife, post: 13527023,

One thing to keep in mind, I talked to the engine builder today and he told me to trust the factory gauge more than the added water temp gauge to my surprise ?! Well that kind of makes the temp gauge seem useless...

[/QUOTE]

Without being difficult, I'd wonder about finding a new engine builder... numbers on an accurate gauge don't lie...
 
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[QUOTE="ToyotaIsLife, post: 13527023,

One thing to keep in mind, I talked to the engine builder today and he told me to trust the factory gauge more than the added water temp gauge to my surprise ?! Well that kind of makes the temp gauge seem useless...

Without being difficult, I'd wonder about finding a new engine builder... numbers on an accurate gauge don't lie...
[/QUOTE]

I could go to the other garage "High Technology" which is another reputable 1FZE builder, or "Four stroke garage", or "Top RPM" all 1FZE specialists. Since it is true didn't have very good luck with this garage I am working with right now.

The garage I'm working with right now has the most experience with 1FZEs overall here in Qatar so I was expecting a lot going into this build.

I had a conversation over the phone a couple of weeks ago with the owner of "High Technology" and he told me with my current setup on my 1FZE I should be outputting 350+whp no questions asked. but to be fair the current engine builder also told me that I should expect 350+ with a stroker. Soo...
 

AussieHJCruza

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IMHO, something is wrong if she keeps blowing Head Gaskets, 90 degrees isn't overheating - I didn't used to lift off the throttle till about 105c, if I remember correctly the factory AC cutoff is about 108c
 
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Well I have a lot of issues with things and I don’t think they have been done correctly, and this engine builder keeps making things up to cover his ass.

I don’t know where your aftermarket gauge sensor is placed. That alone is going to determine if it is something you even bother looking at. The stock gauge sensor is in the block.

additionally there is more here to worry about than just the type of radiator. I have voiced my opinion many times on the poor idea of the BC stroker kit.

Find a new shop and have them go through this shop’s work.
 
Joined
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Well I have a lot of issues with things and I don’t think they have been done correctly, and this engine builder keeps making things up to cover his ass.

I don’t know where your aftermarket gauge sensor is placed. That alone is going to determine if it is something you even bother looking at. The stock gauge sensor is in the block.

additionally there is more here to worry about than just the type of radiator. I have voiced my opinion many times on the poor idea of the BC stroker kit.

Find a new shop and have them go through this shop’s work.

Well put
 
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Jeez, blew the head gasket again today at the dunes. When I checked the radiator it was fairly empty.

No choice but to go with the PWR radiator now + a new lower temp thermostat just in case.

Issue is the water temp gauge goes over 90 and the factory gauge is all the way up ?!

I thought 105+ was overheating


View attachment 2515084

Sorry to hear man. How long is it taking you to get your head gaskets from Cometic? Mine took a month, and now they are saying it's 5weeks. Are you using MLS or MLX?
 

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