1FZE Naturally Aspirated Upgrade (CLOSED) (1 Viewer)

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I would go with the aluminum alloy Lexus wheel. You don't need steelies for the dunes and in and around driving.

Yeah looks like I’m going to switch to the alloy wheel, however not the Lexus one the Toyota one which is around 1kg heavier but looks nicer still going to save 3.3 kg per corner which in terms of rotational inertia and unsprung weight should be a good improvement .
 
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I am also considering switching from the conventional Toyota 20W-50 to synthetic AMSOIL 5W-30 however the climate here is really hot and right now in winter the coolest it gets is around 70 degrees Fahrenheit . The average is 95 degrees Fahrenheit in the “winter” so it does not seem like a good idea to switch to a singicantly lighter oil. 120+ in the summer.

What made me think about oil weights was an article claiming a good hp gain from a lighter oil. Dont want to risk it though I’ll keep doing more research first.
 
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First test with the stroker, 4.88 and ARB locker.

Now I am pleased with the power and torque really drives forward on large dunes and is fun to drive.

however I did overheat it new radiator and full coolant this time strange that it overheated I only went full throttle for like 2 min at a time max I’ll check the pressure when I get home.


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Do you guys know if the 1FZE clutch fan is adjustable ? Can’t seem to think of the problem or why it overheated to the point of blowing the gasket , since I only go full throttle in short bursts and the whole cooling system is brand new (water pump , hoses, radiator, clutch fan fan shroud etc including a lower temp thermostat)

I will also be installing a water temp gauge to ensure I always lay back when it gets too hot I don’t want to rely on the factory gauge
 

clx16

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The fan clutch is sort of adjustable. People change the fluid in them to various viscosities to improve airflow. Someone after than me can point you to the fan clutch mod threads but the answer is yes but a little bit involved.


Also factory temp gauge on the 80 is garbage. I keep watch of mine using an obd2 reader i installed in my dash.
Page 1 has mount for scanguage and page 2 has my version for monitoring temps 3D Printing Parts for the 80
 
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The fan clutch is sort of adjustable. People change the fluid in them to various viscosities to improve airflow. Someone after than me can point you to the fan clutch mod threads but the answer is yes but a little bit involved.


Also factory temp gauge on the 80 is garbage. I keep watch of mine using an obd2 reader i installed in my dash.
Page 1 has mount for scanguage and page 2 has my version for monitoring temps 3D Printing Parts for the 80

Ahh yes I have heard that somewhere before , changing the oil viscosity on the clutch fan, I’ll do more digging on that appreciate you bringing that up , and yeah the water temp gauge is a must for me to prevent this from happening again.
 
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clx16

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Will your fan shroud fit on that one? it might not really help much if you can't use the fan shroud. I would make sure you can use a fan shroud or it might get worse with that upgrade.
 

brettk

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I am also considering this radiator from PWR Australia which is larger than the stock radiator, however it’s an aluminum radiator which means it cools quickly and heats up quickly ? Or does it expel the heat faster ? That is what I do not understand currently.



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I can’t speak for them as I do not have one (yet?), but there’s several people on here that have bought Ron Davis Racing radiators. Seems to be the go to.
 
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Will your fan shroud fit on that one? it might not really help much if you can't use the fan shroud. I would make sure you can use a fan shroud or it might get worse with that upgrade.

yes offcourse I know the importance of a fan shroud, without it the fan will take care from allover the place therefore reducing the efficiency significantly
 
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I just contacted Ron Davis and they told me they have not built a radiator for the 100 series yet, since I am sure the radiator on the 100 is different from the 80 even though its 1fze. I asked if I could custom order and he told me the lead time is 12 weeks minimum or February next year. Thats not going to work for me unfortunately. However he did address my concern about using aluminum on radiators and he did tell me that if the radiator is built right the aluminum can dissipate the heat more quickly.
 
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Update:

1. Head gasket replaced.

2. Water temp gauge installed.

3. Mechanical fan is deleted, now I am running two electric puller fans with fan shrouds + two electric pusher fans so push pull configuration. All fans are high output high CFM so total of 4 high output fans , RIP alternator

if it still overheats I will replace the radiator with PWR

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Better get that whole radiator covered with shroud. I didn’t do that initially with my dual electric fan set up and while it worked ok when it wasn’t stupid hot out, it won’t once it’s too warm. You’re not using all of the surface area of that rad as is.
 
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Better get that whole radiator covered with shroud. I didn’t do that initially with my dual electric fan set up and while it worked ok when it wasn’t stupid hot out, it won’t once it’s too warm. You’re not using all of the surface area of that rad as is.

Your right , I’ll look into that.
 

Tachycardic

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Not sure if you'll get significant sand ingress, but I would also consider a hood louvre like this:
 
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Not sure if you'll get significant sand ingress, but I would also consider a hood louvre like this:

The garage that is working on my 1FZE actually does offer a fiberglass hood/bonnet with vents just like that Ill consider it. The idea seems promising, since sand is already getting inside the engine bay from all corners that shouldn't be a problem.
 

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