1FZE Naturally Aspirated Upgrade (CLOSED) (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

A CNC head is only as good as the hand ported head it was modeled after. Do you know if this shop has any flow numbers for the before and after CNC porting? If it is a nice port job I bet they could sell a few outside of Qatar if they opted to.

UPDATE:

It's been a while guys. This is an update to the quest to reach 300+whp in my 1FZE without touching the crank.

The engine is still being worked on, I have still not used it since last time, unfortunately. The reason it took so long was that I had to get yet another set of cams custom ground this time with the same duration as the previous cam but with a tighter lobe separation, from 112 degrees to 108 degrees.

The second change is the most recent one which actually just got done today, and that is a CNC head port and polish, as opposed to the in house hand made port and polish.

I am hoping to get the picture of the powerband and some videos of the engine in use at the dunes, by the end of this week, and I hope I don't get any more delays.

I'm stoked and I can't wait to finally use it.

In Summary:

1. Tighter lobe cams (112-108)

2. CNC head port and polish.

3. Miscellaneous fixes such as the transfer case actuator not engaging 4WD , throttle cable lazy and stiff feel and the clutch pedal being to far and loose.

View attachment 2483306

View attachment 2483307

View attachment 2483308
 
A CNC head is only as good as the hand ported head it was modeled after. Do you know if this shop has any flow numbers for the before and after CNC porting? If it is a nice port job I bet they could sell a few outside of Qatar if they opted to.

Yes, I understand, a CNC only has an advantage when it comes to consistency. However, there must be a reason it's not hitting or going over the 300whp mark. An equivalent build got 310whp with the same parts. Another build with just a cam and a motec ecu hit 250whp which is just 20 shy of where my build was at before the recent cam swap, somethings not right. Compression is perfect so it must be an airflow problem which is why we decided to give CNC a try as a last resort. Wel see if it did any good or not.

Unfortunately, they don't have head flow benches so we can't measure the change or the current flow.
 
Something very strange happened,

My engine was swapped over to another LC100 and it got 325 whp on the same dyno while mine still is 270whp open headers , 255-260whp muffler connected.

55-60 whp difference just by swapping the engine to another frame? How is that even possible I have never seen anything like this.

Drivetrain loss is the only contributing factor I can think off however I can’t imagine it being this significant.

the only difference between my rig and his rig is the wheel, we are both using the same tire, he uses an alloy Toyota 16 inch wheel while I am using a steel Toyota wheel. Unsprung weight is heavier on my rig but not enough to justify that much of a difference.

Atleast we now know the issue is not with the engines power output, it’s something else whatever it is.

Garage owner told me they started inspecting drivetrain components
 
Hmm wonder if you have rear brakes dragging ..but of course you should smell that.
 
There is a reasonable loss in a cruiser driveline, I measured about 40% on my HDJ80, H151, 4.11 diff, 285/75/16 tyres, CDL locked, front driveshaft pulled
 
Were both ran in the same configuration of AWD or RWD? Not sure if you are doing the standard op of removing the front driveshaft and locking the center diff, making you effectively RWD, or you are running it as a true AWD. Just grasping at straws here, I'm quite sure a shop that knows what they are doing would understand the difference.
 
Hmm wonder if you have rear brakes dragging ..but of course you should smell that.
Were both ran in the same configuration of AWD or RWD? Not sure if you are doing the standard op of removing the front driveshaft and locking the center diff, making you effectively RWD, or you are running it as a true AWD. Just grasping at straws here, I'm quite sure a shop that knows what they are doing would understand the difference.

It's a part-time 4WD transfer case that 1998-2005 LC100s get, 2WD, with a press of a button you get 4WD. All tests are done on 2WD.
 
That is very hard to believe. Both trucks are using the same transmissions? Same gear boxes? Same rear axles? The only difference is wheels? If so there is no way wheels account for a 65whp difference. Maybe 8-10whp. Are they using the same intake? Something smells really fishy to me.


 
That is very hard to believe. Both trucks are using the same transmissions? Same gear boxes? Same rear axles? The only difference is wheels? If so there is no way wheels account for a 65whp difference. Maybe 8-10whp. Are they using the same intake? Something smells really fishy to me.

Everything is the same except the wheels and the ride height.

Both trucks are manual, BUT they are not the same transmissions.

Both use OEM rear axels however they are different. They did not swap any of the drivetrain parts, just the engine, flywheel, and clutch.
 
Everything is the same except the wheels and the ride height.

Both trucks are manual, BUT they are not the same transmissions.

Both use OEM rear axels however they are different. They did not swap any of the drivetrain parts, just the engine, flywheel, and clutch.

You say that everything is the same, but the axles and transmissions are different--it has to be something after the engine that's sucking up all that energy, unless you're using 2 different dynos and the calibration is off. How are the transmissions and axles different?
 
You say that everything is the same, but the axles and transmissions are different--it has to be something after the engine that's sucking up all that energy, unless you're using 2 different dynos and the calibration is off. How are the transmissions and axles different?

Yes must be something after the engine.

We are using the same dyno.

When I meant to say was both rigs use all OEM drivetrain components however we did not exchange parts just the engine.

so it must be that one or more of my drivetrain components are worn out or are not functioning properly there can’t be another explanation or at-least one that I can think of.

Nevertheless I will be taking it out of the garage tommorow to see how it drives and use it at the dunes this weekend hopefully better than the first try.
 
Engines back on my rig and thee final tune set ! Picked it up and on my way to the dunes for the test. I’ll be at the dunes testing it for two days.

Right now it’s at 290whp fluctuates a little below and above that number also added a ON OFF switch for the backfire, we also removed the electronic muffler and added a straight through standard muffler to avoid valves being stuck
Videos of it running in an hour or two when I get there.

09EA9BA8-E2D1-4C44-82A7-BD8C8B4064CD.jpeg
 
First start up and rev at the dunes.

night time to dark to shoot outside footage of dune bashing unfortunately I’ll leave that for tommorow.

So far first impressions, the low end power is suprisingly good it does not bog down at all when full throttle at a tall gear around the dunes, mid to top end is okay not amazing.

 
It looks like terrific fun! What tires and tire pressures are you running?
 
It looks like terrific fun! What tires and tire pressures are you running?

Yes tons of fun, just need to slap some king shocks and TC UCAS and it will be good to go. I slapped the bump stops to many times this weekend, however cruising around its comfy.

Tire pressure: 15 PSI.

Tire: We call them Ballons they are from Maxxis, They are a extremely popular here in Qatar, they are made of nylon only which makes them very light, and plush + it does not dig in sand. However it punctures easily and vibrates on road.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom