Stock displacement is 100m bore x 95mm stroke = 4.477L
101mm bore x 95mm stroke = 4.567L
101mm bore x 95mm stroke = 4.567L
1FZE Naturally Aspirated Upgrade (CLOSED) (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter ToyotaIsLife
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- Thread starter
- #42
When you put it that way its clear, however what confused me is the terminology used locally here. People just call it piston 50 or piston 100. or the OEM piston ZERO. So I initially had the ridiculous assumption that piston 100 meant +100bore putting it to 200 bore x 95 stroke
Tachycardic
SILVER Star
I meant that one would ideally have a block with extra material in the cylinder walls already--to allow for an increased bore while maintaining long-term reliability.
Well when people say 50 or 100 over, that is short for 50 thousands of an inch or 100 thousands of an inch larger than stock. It surprises me that since the stock pistons are in millimeters and Qatar uses the metric system that they would use that terminology. The most common size in the US for pistons used in rebuilds is 40 over. That way the engine block can be cleaned up and new pistons can be dropped in.
- Thread starter
- #45
Aha ok, what is the reason or the necessity to bore the block and install larger pistons when doing a rebuild?, here you could find 50 over or 100 over pistons by Toyota, OEM.
If the bore has any scuffs or wear marks people clean the bore up which removes a little material so you need a little larger piston.
- Thread starter
- #47
Okay, now it's starting to all make sense. Much appreciated.
Oh and I bet what they mean when they say 50 over or 100 over is 50 hundredths of a mm or 100 hundredth of a mm. Because Toyota offers pistons in 100.50mm and 101.00mm. That would make more sense for a country that uses the metric system.
- Thread starter
- #49
.100mm increase seems insignificant or are small increases potent when it comes to bore/displacement?
I think it’s 100 hundredths, so 1mm. 101mm pistons compared to 100mm stock.
- Thread starter
- #53
Cam swap is done! This cam sounds choppier, almost like a 1970 classic dodge challenger at idle.
I also installed a new OEM radiator. The old radiator was dirty and had damaged fins.
Dyno test tonight, fingers crossed 300 wheel hp!
ill try my best to get footage and pics of the power band.
I also installed a new OEM radiator. The old radiator was dirty and had damaged fins.
Dyno test tonight, fingers crossed 300 wheel hp!
ill try my best to get footage and pics of the power band.
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My guess is 234whp
- Thread starter
- #55
The tuner told me the average wheel HP of an N/A engine with full heard work and no stroker(stock crankshaft) is between 250 wheel HP and 290 wheel HP. So I'm hoping to sit between 290 and 300, where that peak HP comes in the powerband is also important.
Well let us know! That would be a really huge gain from a truck that makes 130-150whp.
- Thread starter
- #58
Ok it is the next morning, how did it go??
Tuner delayed it !
Hopefully, we will get it done this afternoon. I'll update you guys.
*One thing to keep in mind scottryana: the 1FZE on my 100 series is the updated version that comes with the 105 series in Australia and 100 series in the lower trims in the middle east (gulf). This newer 1998+ 1FZE does have some updates that increase power output from the factory, just keep that in mind.
Stock:
240 hp (179 kW) (1FZ-FE 1998-2009)
300 lb⋅ft (407 N⋅m) @ 3600 RPM (1FZ-FE 1998-2009)
Changes:
1. Redesigned head
2. More compact pistons
3. Longer intake runners.
4. 4 Nozzle injectors.
5. Direct ignition (no distributor)
6. Updated throttle body.
Engine bay pic before upgrade (stock):
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- Thread starter
- #60
Do you guys get manual transmission options for 80 and 100 series?
