Is that 206hp in the second picture? I can’t quite make out what the screen says.
1FZE Naturally Aspirated Upgrade (CLOSED) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ToyotaIsLife
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- Thread starter
- #22
No that's some other number, that was before we started the dyno,
Sadly I did not get a chance to look at the powerband or see the peak numbers, however, from what the tuner told me, it was below 300 wheel hp. our goal is to get it to 300 wheel hp. Which is why we are swapping cams. Hopefully Ill have all the numbers and a pic of the powerband after the cam swap, by next week. Sunday or Monday.
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- #24
2.5 King shocks all around with total chaos upper control arms and a diff drop kit by superior engineering, king comfort rear coil springs(blue ones) in the rear, and tough dog torsion bar (30% more spring rate than stock).
For tires, I am going to stick to what is on now, the nylon Maxxis what we call "Ballons", which are really nice on the sand. They are extremely light and ride very soft and do not dig. However, they do puncture very easily and have a ton of road vibration and noise. Pros and cons right ?
I am aiming to have all this done by next month.
- Thread starter
- #25
Yes especially NA with no stroker, hopefully, the powerband is not too high though, I want a good mid-range for cruising around the dunes. That's why we started with a more mild cam.
That sounds mean! Cool intake manifold. 300whp would be nuts on an NA motor, even in 2WD. No stroker might actually help with the HP number as it'll spin better at the top end. Stroker might be more fun in the dunes, but for bragging at the dyno, I think the stock crank is the way to go. Kudos!
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- #27
Yeah that's the thing !, stroker would give a huge increase to low-mid range power and torque. I wanted to install a stroker kit however the garage owner said they will not reliable with a ton of abuse in the dunes. I need something that will handle a lot of abuse for a a whole dune season (6 months). He said only dragsters and on road racers install stroker kits
Did he say why exactly ? Too short of a connecting rod ?
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- #29
He did not explain why really, no proper answer, he just told me it is a common issue, something about significant oil consumption and a constant need for maintenance. When I ask around, most claim the same, don't do it it's not reliable for long term use, they don't explain why tho! I also don't understand why, but I don't plan to risk it. Stroker kits do come with connecting rods I can't imagine that being the issue. If I do learn the reason Ill be sure to update you.
This is one of the popular stroker kits, have a look: BrianCrower.com | RunBC.com // Toyota // 1FZFE
I have talked about it a few times here in mud. The stroker kits that are made by Crower for the 1FZ are a very bad example of how to do it. They don’t change the piston pin height and decrease the rod length so you end up with a pretty poor rod/stroke length.
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- #31
This was BEFORE UPGRADING
this is just a compilation of clips of me testing it at the dunes. Unfortunately, stationary tripod so no interesting shots, let this serve as a before upgrade reference
you could tell it lacked power, lots of momentum needed to climb dunes + you need to be revved high to or else it will just bog down too quickly
this is just a compilation of clips of me testing it at the dunes. Unfortunately, stationary tripod so no interesting shots, let this serve as a before upgrade reference
you could tell it lacked power, lots of momentum needed to climb dunes + you need to be revved high to or else it will just bog down too quickly
Last edited:
Messing around with 1FZE, this was BEFORE UPGRADE
this is just a compilation of clips of me playing around at the dunes unfortunately stationary tripod so no interesting shots (since nobody wants to go to the dunes during the summer!), let this serve as a before upgrade reference
you could tell it lacked power, lots of momentum needed to climb dunes + you need to be revved high to or else it will just bog down.
If you cringe with rev limiters don't watch lol.
Super cool to see builds like this. Land cruisers are a huge part of social culture in other countries. I’m partial because I’m Japanese. However here in the US we are a small cult following. Good news is that with high vehicle values more business and resources will come. Can’t wait to see our small vendors turn into large businesses.
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- #33
here in qatar , I guarantee you 100% you will
not find a single family without a land cruiser whether that may be 80,100,200 series. We love them that much.
Tachycardic
SILVER Star
I think when you increase the stroke, you should ideally increase the bore. So your cylinder walls should be reinforced. Obviously you can't do that with the original block, so if you do a stroker engine, you should use a new aftermarket block with reinforced cylinder walls designed for stroker cranks, and one that is designed to give you good rod-to-stroke ratio. Aside from machining one yourself, I don't know if they exist. Using the original block and the Crower kit will result in a disappointing engine in the long run like scottyryana said.
How does increasing the bore reinforce the cylinder walls?? The stock block would be just fine if the stroker was done correctly, no changes need to it. I have offered to do all the work in the last stoker thread so the guy would have a viable kit, but I told him that even if i did the R&D for free the cost would be close to $15k and he was never heard from again. lol.
- Thread starter
- #36
Those seem to be really good points but i dont understand enough to discuss about these engines yet. Stroker kits are really popular here but people installing them dont really care how it works they just thrash on it, and mostly for the drag racing community here. Which is mostly LC100 vs other LC100s
No, I did not say that it "doesn't come with pistons and such." I said that the aftermarket kit does nothing to address rod length to stroke length ratio. They do not adjust the compression height of the piston, the piston pin size or the stock rod length. And none of those things are stock items anywhere.
To get a 5.2L engine with a 100mm bore that means you have to stroke it to 110mm. The stock rod length is ~152.5mm. That would leave you with a 1.38:1 rod to stroke length. Which puts excessive side pressure on the piston.
- Thread starter
- #38
@scottryana
Wait wait, so if I am on the stock crankshaft right now, and the stock 1FZE has a 100mm bore x 95mm stroke. The +101mm bore ross pistons, does that mean 101x95, how much does that bore increase affect displacement? I don't know how that works. I know those two numbers multiplied by the cylinders give 4.5L. But what does +101 mean that's my question.
Tachycardic
SILVER Star
Messing around with 1FZE, this was BEFORE UPGRADE
this is just a compilation of clips of me playing around at the dunes unfortunately stationary tripod so no interesting shots (since nobody wants to go to the dunes during the summer!), let this serve as a before upgrade reference
you could tell it lacked power, lots of momentum needed to climb dunes + you need to be revved high to or else it will just bog down.
If you cringe with rev limiters don't watch lol.
Are you running 12-15psi (0.8-1.0 bar)?
- Thread starter
- #40
15 PSI Yes. I sometimes drop to 10 PSI.
