1FZE Naturally Aspirated Upgrade (CLOSED) (3 Viewers)

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Yep, math doesn’t lie. And HP and torque always cross at 5252 on a dyno that reads ft/lbs and hp on the same scale. So saying they cross at 5500 is not correct. On that dyno graph it is no more than 255whp.

The dyno operator was very careful to frame the picture in such a way that the actual numbers in the bottom left corner are not in frame.
All I know is that 5252 is the constant in all hp calc’s. Sharp eye....
 
Not to be a damper on your spirits, but there is not 270whp on that dyno graph. That’s a 255hp run maybe.

I still think that is a solid improvement over what a stock GenII 1FZ would dyno. Even with a manual transmission it can’t be more than 170whp.

so while the number looks low you now have 50% more hp than you had stock!

The thing is I got promised 300whp. The garage owner told me an identical build made 300whp. I am not sure what could be the issue, but we will examine further after I do some testing today.

I'll be taking it to the dunes in a couple of hours.
 
I would assume they are stiffer yes, I'll have to ask and get back to you, valve float? That's a new term for me.
IMHO (not sure if @scottryana is referring to something else) the wave in the power/torque at the end of the run indicates this - loss of control of the valvetrain due to insufficient spring pressure typically
 
IMHO (not sure if @scottryana is referring to something else) the wave in the power/torque at the end of the run indicates this - loss of control of the valvetrain due to insufficient spring pressure typically

Ah okay. I will have to discuss this with the garage. Good thing you guys brought that up.
 
@scottryana I wanted to bring one thing up, the tuner tried doing a run with open headers, He told me he saw an increase of 25 hp ?!, I mean I had a straight-through muffler(when it turned on), how did it have that much backpressure, maybe its an issue with it being an electronic muffler, the valve might be closed halfway that's a common issue with electronic mufflers here. But 25 HP is a huge again, I am going to have to get rid of the muffler at some point, it must be suffocating the engine.
 
Yep this is exactly what I meant. If you look on the graph from 5500rpm's on, how the graph looks wavy.

IMHO (not sure if @scottryana is referring to something else) the wave in the power/torque at the end of the run indicates this - loss of control of the valvetrain due to insufficient spring pressure typically
Ah okay. I will have to discuss this with the garage. Good thing you guys brought that up.
 
25whp would be a huge gain for a muffler. I don't know if it would even be possible on a NA engine. I hope the tuner didn't oversell you something. 300whp would be very difficult I suspect.

@scottryana I wanted to bring one thing up, the tuner tried doing a run with open headers, He told me he saw an increase of 25 hp ?!, I mean I had a straight-through muffler(when it turned on), how did it have that much backpressure, maybe its an issue with it being an electronic muffler, the valve might be closed halfway that's a common issue with electronic mufflers here. But 25 HP is a huge again, I am going to have to get rid of the muffler at some point, it must be suffocating the engine.
 
25whp would be a huge gain for a muffler. I don't know if it would even be possible on a NA engine. I hope the tuner didn't oversell you something. 300whp would be very difficult I suspect.

Yes I know, 25 whp gain simply because of less back pressure on a N/A engine does not make much sense, I don't think its pushing enough air to see that much of a difference but we will see in time since I plan on running open headers with a collector extension by the end of October (dune season). This is not final it is an ongoing project. We will continue examining the vehicle to see why its not hitting that golden 300whp that everyone here claims I should be making, and I will also bring up the issue about valve float and discuss it with the garage owner.

When I told my friends and other guys with 1FZE upgraded builds that I didn't hit 300whp they were all shocked saying something is wrong it has to hit that number with all the modifications that I did, they don't have much of a technical understanding of the subject, mostly just a word of mouth from all the racing garages here that work on 1FZEs claiming that their 1FZE builds hit 300whp. They also do not take into consideration the differences of each dynamometer, this number 300whp seems to be a common number among 1FZE owners who do full head work with stock stroke here in Qatar. Dont quote me on that yet, take this info with a grain of salt as you should. I will continue to ask around and add any information I learn as I go, as this is my first time working on an engine and I am not sure what to expect really.

In the mean time I will be doing some on road and Offroad testing today, Ill hopefully post some videos of zero to 60 pulls and footage of it running at the dunes by the end of the day.
 
That sound tho 🤩 making me want to go and buy an FZJ80 or FZJ105 again
 
I could not do an offroad test because the transfer case switch was not connected. So I only had 2 wheel drive. I will need to go back get that fixed plus do some adjustments to the throttle cable, it feels laggy and stiff not good.

Unfortunately no dune test yet, I did do a couple of pulls on sand to get a feel for it. It runs better than stock but not what I expected.

however, from the on-road test, the power was underwhelming. 👎🏽

Ill be taking it back to the garage to get everything looked at.

*The rattle you hear in the video is from the front bumper being loose. I forgot to sort that out.


 
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If you want to see underwhelming come and take a ride in mine!

But I understand you wanting more!
 
@scottryana I just saw a kit in the garage that cancels the mechanical fan and installs a electric puller fan instead. Do you think it would free up any power ?
 

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