1Fz to 1HDFT swap (1 Viewer)

[Jlvaldez]

Hellos guys, fairly new to this. I have a1995 Fzj80 M/T. I’m looking into a 1HD-FT or FTE swap. I haven’t been able to find a thread about this, maybe I’m not using the forum right. Can any one point me out in the right direction please?

If there is not a thread about this particular topic (which I doubt) is there anybody out there that has done this swap that can shed some light on this?

Thanks very much in advance

CHEERS

 

[WiscoPat]

Absolutely love my 1HD-FT! Good luck with the swap, I know there are members on here who've done it (at least, the 1HD-T).

 

[nickolai]

1HDFT is the simpler swap - minimal wiring. Any 1H engine will bolt into the factory mounts since they came with both petrol and diesel mounts from the factory. You'll need the right bellhousing for your R or H series box.

FTE means that you'll need the ECU and wiring and to get that sorted too.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Have a search through the diesel tech forum

Diesel Tech / 24 volts

BJ/HJ diesels (3B, 13BT, 1KZ, 1HZ, 1PZ, etc) and other diesel conversions (ie: Isuzu, Hino, 4BT, 6BT, etc)

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Lo2aY]

I have done both in 80s 60s and 70s.

for the 80, as others have mentioned engine placement is the same for the 1FZ. Trans depends on what you'll go with. I suggest an H151 if you can get your hands on it. Good strong transmission that was offered behind this engine. Also has the provisions on the frame to be bolted up.

You should use your fuel supply line as a return for the diesel. and use a 13mm size hose for your supply.

Rads interchange between gas and diesel. Your pedals are all the same including throttle.

The airbox is also the same, you'll just need a turbo lid. if you want to keep it all factory.

The starter on this engine is usually 24V. I always use a 1HZ starter which would be a 12V starter. bolts up and works great.

All the sensors will transfer over for your dash with the exception of tach. You may need to swap the tach from a diesel cluster to make it work and wire into the pump for a signal.

the FT is a very very straight froward swap with not much hassle to make work. The FTE requires ECU, pedal, spill valve and a few other bits.

I personally like the FTE on how it delivers the power. because of the electronic pump, it really feels stronger and smoother. But I prefer the FT as a complete mechanical engine. It is also the last mechanical diesel engine Toyota made outside the on going 1HZ.

Good luck

 

[Jlvaldez]

I have done both in 80s 60s and 70s.

for the 80, as others have mentioned engine placement is the same for the 1FZ. Trans depends on what you'll go with. I suggest an H151 if you can get your hands on it. Good strong transmission that was offered behind this engine. Also has the provisions on the frame to be bolted up.

You should use your fuel supply line as a return for the diesel. and use a 13mm size hose for your supply.

Rads interchange between gas and diesel. Your pedals are all the same including throttle.

The airbox is also the same, you'll just need a turbo lid. if you want to keep it all factory.

The starter on this engine is usually 24V. I always use a 1HZ starter which would be a 12V starter. bolts up and works great.

All the sensors will transfer over for your dash with the exception of tach. You may need to swap the tach from a diesel cluster to make it work and wire into the pump for a signal.

the FT is a very very straight froward swap with not much hassle to make work. The FTE requires ECU, pedal, spill valve and a few other bits.

I personally like the FTE on how it delivers the power. because of the electronic pump, it really feels stronger and smoother. But I prefer the FT as a complete mechanical engine. It is also the last mechanical diesel engine Toyota made outside the on going 1HZ.

Good luck

Thanks a lot mate

CHEERS

 

[Jlvaldez]

I have done both in 80s 60s and 70s.

for the 80, as others have mentioned engine placement is the same for the 1FZ. Trans depends on what you'll go with. I suggest an H151 if you can get your hands on it. Good strong transmission that was offered behind this engine. Also has the provisions on the frame to be bolted up.

You should use your fuel supply line as a return for the diesel. and use a 13mm size hose for your supply.

Rads interchange between gas and diesel. Your pedals are all the same including throttle.

The airbox is also the same, you'll just need a turbo lid. if you want to keep it all factory.

The starter on this engine is usually 24V. I always use a 1HZ starter which would be a 12V starter. bolts up and works great.

All the sensors will transfer over for your dash with the exception of tach. You may need to swap the tach from a diesel cluster to make it work and wire into the pump for a signal.

the FT is a very very straight froward swap with not much hassle to make work. The FTE requires ECU, pedal, spill valve and a few other bits.

I personally like the FTE on how it delivers the power. because of the electronic pump, it really feels stronger and smoother. But I prefer the FT as a complete mechanical engine. It is also the last mechanical diesel engine Toyota made outside the on going 1HZ.

Good luck

I have done both in 80s 60s and 70s.

for the 80, as others have mentioned engine placement is the same for the 1FZ. Trans depends on what you'll go with. I suggest an H151 if you can get your hands on it. Good strong transmission that was offered behind this engine. Also has the provisions on the frame to be bolted up.

You should use your fuel supply line as a return for the diesel. and use a 13mm size hose for your supply.

Rads interchange between gas and diesel. Your pedals are all the same including throttle.

The airbox is also the same, you'll just need a turbo lid. if you want to keep it all factory.

The starter on this engine is usually 24V. I always use a 1HZ starter which would be a 12V starter. bolts up and works great.

All the sensors will transfer over for your dash with the exception of tach. You may need to swap the tach from a diesel cluster to make it work and wire into the pump for a signal.

the FT is a very very straight froward swap with not much hassle to make work. The FTE requires ECU, pedal, spill valve and a few other bits.

I personally like the FTE on how it delivers the power. because of the electronic pump, it really feels stronger and smoother. But I prefer the FT as a complete mechanical engine. It is also the last mechanical diesel engine Toyota made outside the on going 1HZ.

Good luck

Just one question , is there a way or some kind of telltale to find out if my trans is an H151. Im 90% sure it is but I just want that last solid proof.

thanks again

 

[mudgudgeon]

Post pic of the trans

H151 has a 14 spline input shaft. H151 were used behind 1FZ-FE, and turbo diesels

H150 had a thinner, 21 spline input. H150 were only used behind 1HZ in the 80 series

 

[DivByZero]

Do we know if the only difference is the input shaft? I haven't heard a definitive answer one way or the other, but it'd be nice to know. I still want to grab a spare gearbox for my rig when the right one pops up for the right price.

 

[DivByZero]

Oh, I should also mention, it's a popular option to swap in the H152 gearboxes from new 70 series rigs. They have some differences in gear ratios, and you need to swap over the input shaft, but they are compatible.

 

[SNLC]

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We have another FT swap into a 1967 45-series, FTE swap into an 80 and another one similar to the 79 on the 80-chassis. We work a lot with the FT/FTE’s.

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

Do we know if the only difference is the input shaft? I haven't heard a definitive answer one way or the other, but it'd be nice to know. I still want to grab a spare gearbox for my rig when the right one pops up for the right price.

Externally, the only visible difference between H150 & H151 is the input shaft.

Internally, they have different ratios, and different synchros.

 

[TonyP]

Oh, I should also mention, it's a popular option to swap in the H152 gearboxes from new 70 series rigs. They have some differences in gear ratios, and you need to swap over the input shaft, but they are compatible.

And bellhousing.

 

[Vitek]

You can find which transmission you have on the build plate if your car has one, metal one in the engine bay or more modern ones black sticker at the drivers door area I think.