1fz rebuild options?

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FLINT...nuff said
Researching my options for a rebuild for my 1fz...opinions? I've contacted a few people...better to buy one done or do mine? Where to buy one? Who to do it? Expected cost? I've been quoted anywhere from $3.5k to $8k...seems to be a huge spread!
Thanks guys...
Ben
 
Could have it pulled CHECK everything then repair ONLY what is needed-such as not turning crank not boring no new valves/guides-if ok-clean all-grind valves-all new gaskets-rings-bearings. May get it apart and be junk.
 
^agreed. People keep saying stuff like that and it's just never true. Sure if you are doing all the work yourself and the donor engine was free or near free then sure you can get into that price range. Otherwise...bulls***.

I was getting prices ranging from $15k for SBC to $20k for diesel. Time wise we are talking months. It's never easy, direct and without headaches.

My total rebuild cost me about $13k but that includes all of the labor, all of my ridiculous mods, all new parts and supercharger.
 
Yeah was quoted $42k for LS2 conversion with 1year lead time...hence why I've chosen to rebuild my 1fz...have seen rebuilds on line for 3.5k and had Cristos Slee quote 8k+ for a rebuild..that's a wide spread...I want it done right..I believe Slee would do it right but 8k seems high...maybe not? Why I asked opinions on 1fz rebuild..
 
Researching my options for a rebuild for my 1fz...opinions? I've contacted a few people...better to buy one done or do mine? Where to buy one? Who to do it? Expected cost? I've been quoted anywhere from $3.5k to $8k...seems to be a huge spread!
Thanks guys...
Ben

Whats wrong with the current motor? When mine finally goes, I plan on having Slee throw in a 2UZ from the 100 series. Cost is well under $20k. Otherwise it seems like $8-10k for a rebuild done right..but why spend that kind of money when for a few thousand more you can have a toyota v-8 under the hood?
 
@NLXTACY I was speaking from the perspective of doing my own labor and fab, I feel confident that I could get an L33 + 4L65E or similar in my truck for 5-6 k, the engine trans and wiring harnesses can be had for a hair over 3k (plus I could pull one cheaper but for arguments sake we will use pulled engine prices). That gives a pretty decent buffer for the extras.. would it be headache free during the work? No.

That being said I agree that if you pay someone else to do it you might as well get a bottle of lube and grab your ankles.
 
Whats wrong with the current motor? When mine finally goes, I plan on having Slee throw in a 2UZ from the 100 series. Cost is well under $20k. Otherwise it seems like $8-10k for a rebuild done right..but why spend that kind of money when for a few thousand more you can have a toyota v-8 under the hood?

Why spend Toyota V8 money when you could spend less and get a GM V8 with nearly infinite aftermarket support, more power potential, and a simpler design ?
 
Why spend Toyota V8 money when you could spend less and get a GM V8 with nearly infinite aftermarket support, more power potential, and a simpler design ?

For reliability, simplicity and to keep everything Toyota (and familiar). I think those new chevy 6.2Ls with a modern 6spd transmission would make a killer swap, but I would be worried with putting 400hp and similar torque on 20+ year old drivetrain. Plus the cost of one of those engines/transmissions alone is $5-6k so at the end of the day you are still spending $15k+. At least for me, I already have another 2UZ powered vehicle in the garage so it just makes sense to stick with a familar platform.
 
had luck sourcing motors from car-part.com on other projects. there is a 97 on there now with 99k and they're asking $2k.

Don't ever pay the asking price as most of the independent guys on there will wheel and deal
 
Benjo, I just saw your 'rattle' thread so i gotta ask - do you even know that there is anything seriously wrong with your engine?!
 
The engine has 270k miles is beginning to smoke at start up and the rear main is leaking..I'm driving it till it pukes but I just wanted to research my options so when it does I'm set. The rattle is definitely the power steering pump. i wondered if it could be as I had just worked on it but it didn't make sense to me till I saw those posts on that thread.
 
Rear main seal failure is uncommon on the 1FZ. Rear hump of the main oil pan leakage, otoh, is really common.
 
I would guess that your smoke at start up is due to worn valve seals / guides. Probably not a problem worth opening the engine up for until something else happens like a blown HG. The thing is ..... I'm not quite sure how long the smoke at start up will remain uneventful ??
 
could be another 50-80 k miles...

Here is a test to see if it is the piston rings wearing out; Turn of the overdrive and use the engine to slow the cruiser down the back side of a mountain pass (or extended hill but the engine braking needs to go on for 5min +). Then get on the gas at the bottom, check your mirror, if you see blue smoke then your piston rings are the culprit. (You could also preform a leak down test)
 
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