1FZ Rebuild or not? (1 Viewer)

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Jan 21, 2012
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Location
Qld, Australia
Just bought a 96 model 1FZ manual with a blown head gasket to repair. The plan is to update my 83 dual cab hilux with this.
So pulled the head to find the gasket had blown, no surprise. But on further inspection the bores have pitting from water sitting in the cylinders 1 and 6.
So here is the problem do i rebore the engine and replace the pistons and get the head checked to see if its cracked ( not sure if this is a common fault with 1FZ engine shop seems to think they don't often crack )
Looking at hypertec pistons made by Endurotec but not familiar with this brand?
Or should i pick up another 2nd hand engine and just run it.
Also looking to run a turbo in the future.

Thanks Matt
 
Picking up another engine will be fastest and cheapest (depending on your timing when sourcing).

After getting another engine installed, you could buy yourself time to play with working on the current engine.

If you are interested in a really fun (but costly) project, you could have the machine shop bore it out to a 5.0L

and install the Brian Crower stroker kit. This would really give the engine a chance to make full advantage of forced

induction.

Make sure to have your head checked for cracks. Depending on warpage - you may need to get

the head decked back to flat. Brian Crower also has options for the valve train as well. In a

worst case scenario, Toyota still has complete new heads available through the dealer. Then

when your "fun" engine is ready, swap it in and keep the other on stand by as a backup/spare.
 
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Can get a 2nd hand complete engine, 5speed gearbox for around $900, so may go that way and build the fun engine.
Don't think i could budget a Brian Crower kit, engine will most likely end up 40 thou over. Just need to decide on pistons etc. Not looking to run big boost, just a bit more for towing.
Will check with Toyota on parts, most likely be expensive.
Toyota Australia is a lot different to Toyota USA as in what parts they stock.
 
I like the idea of dropping in a replacement engine while taking the time to work on the real one. You guys in Australia also have easy access to drop in Toyota diesels, which makes me a little jealous.
 
P

Make sure to have your head magna fluxed for cracks. Depending on warpage - you may need to get the head decked back to flat. Brian Crower

.

Good idea, except that only works on cast iron heads..........

Must do pressure testing and dye penetrant to see cracks on an aluminum head.
 
You say you are updating the '83 - does that mean you planned to run a 80 or swap the 1FZ motor into your hilux?

If just updating the motor in hilux & know you're going to own it longterm enough to offset a rebuild or going 4.6 & leaving the rest be, then great - spend the $$ & time.

If you just want a 80 runner asap then by all means grab a local used powertrain & just swap a motor complete, far less time & decently less $$.
 
Had a diesel but this will be a truck that won't be a DD, so petrol will be fine.
Will run an 80 series, the old Hilux has some rust issues and the kids have outgrown the rear seats for legroom. Wife also wants air con in the next truck hehehe
Had a 105 series Diesel which was a solid truck we travelled Australia in.
But always wanted to buy an 80 and it fits the bill for size and price. There is no real rush to have the motor installed but my research has found the 1FZ bottom ends are good for big kms and thought if i could pick up a running engine and fit a new head gasket with overhauled head, happy days.
 
Picked up a 2nd hand engine this morning with manual gearbox,AFM,ECU and new clutch for $750.
So after a 5 Hr road trip decide to give the engine a compression test and find 3 cylinders low in compression.
WTF was told it was a good running engine only removed for a LS1 conversion. After a call with the owner who seems to be an honest guy, police officer, he said the engine has been sitting around for 4 months but assures me that it was all good. So we decide that the valves may have some surface rust on them not sealing properly.
What are peoples thoughts on running the engine and it cleaning the valve seats to have it reseal?
 
You're only in it $750 - if you have budgeted for a light refresh on whatever you picked up, then maybe do it after you get a good wet compression/leakdown done to really confirm things. (iDK your engine exp, this may be common sense to you)

I'd sooner borescope it as best / if you can, run the compression test again with some oil dropped in on the rings, see what the nubers are that way. Leakdown if the wet test goes so-so.

It seems unless the motor doesn't give you better numbers on wet comp test, then I'd sooner open the top end on a stand/blocked up in the carport then "wing it" & install, just to pull parts bent over the core support.

But I've got a few grey hairs, I don't do motor work like I did as a kid, all bent over a motor & that. (Huge part of me buying a hoist)
 
The plan was to just run this engine until i build another. Tried some oil in one cylinder but the numbers only came up slightly.
Old owner reckons his mechanic said it should come good once running?
Not too confident that this will clean the valve seats up but that would be great. Will make some calls tomorrow and see where to go from here. Worst case might be a refresh on this engine, its only money right.
I know what you mean the old backs not what it used to be, hahaha
 
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Been a long time but installed this motor and it runs sweet. Compression tested it 6 months later and all cylinders are nice and even with good compression numbers. Now running a turbo on the same engine after fixing all the little leaks and issues.
Loving its new life with the turbo, below is the build thread if anyone was interested.
 

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