- Thread starter
- #101
This would be for an old engine I hope to transplant (temp) without any valve train or other non-PM work. Ideally I don’t even take the head off…
1FZ Pre-Build Questions
- Thread starter jaymar
- Start date
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Rod bolts.
Main bearing cap bolts in the block.
Order some spare sump/oil pan bolts, rocker cover bolts, easily fubared by heavy handed PO or mechanic
The bolts that hold plug lead cradles, and covers on top of the rocker cover were in poor shape on my cruiser. They get taken in/out every time a vehicle is serviced
All these bolts are a few cents each
You'll need a stand that lets you bolt on a bell housing so you can bolt on the starter.
I was thinking about how to compression test an engine not in the vehicle recently before I bought a used engine.
Was contemplating whether turning it over by hand with all but one plug out would be doable.
I think you'd need the engine held securely so it doesn't fall over sideways.
You'd need a sturdy Z shaped bar with a smooth or rotating handle.
You'd need to give the engine 8-12 full rotations to test each pot. That's 4-6 compression strokes.
I doubt you'd turn an engine over fast enough to get a true compression reading turning it by hand.
And there'd be a risk of the compression kicking back while cranking.
And this want to have your wheeties for brekkie and be pumped for a workout
- Thread starter
- #104
What is the advisability of using the @OTRAMM / @CPACruiser crank pulley tool while the engine is on a stand? What about using a ~650# 1/2-inch impact wrench? The crank bolt in question has never been removed.
Bought the tool when I thought I would do it in-vehicle; now have a second engine and an impact wrench, and it's looking like I'll do the bolt on the second engine first...
Bought the tool when I thought I would do it in-vehicle; now have a second engine and an impact wrench, and it's looking like I'll do the bolt on the second engine first...
Impact worked on mine, but I had a full 80 gallon tank @ 120 PSI. And, some luck
- Thread starter
- #106
Maybe should have mentioned, mine’s battery powered.
I used a cordless impact but did it before pulling the engine. Don’t see why it wouldnt work on the engine stand.
When I reinstalled it i used a home made pulley tool and 3/4” torque wrench to get it to 304.
I'd take the cap off. Pull the disto. Rotate to see if the shaft is bent, and/or is loose. But, likely it's just crunched plastic. You'd want to replace the rotor, cap and wires anyway.
This is a 'new' spare engine you are putting in to replace one, right?
Use the dizzy from the original if in doubt. Swap out during swap out.
Part of the refresh for the 'new' engine should be pulling the distributor to replace the o-ring anyway.
But without any damage to the rotor I'd seriously doubt anything important took a hit.
Use the dizzy from the original if in doubt. Swap out during swap out.
Part of the refresh for the 'new' engine should be pulling the distributor to replace the o-ring anyway.
But without any damage to the rotor I'd seriously doubt anything important took a hit.
- Thread starter
- #111
I get two results when looking for the PS pump P/N, both apparently still available...
Pump Assy, Vane
44320-60181 8/92-6/95
44320-60182 6/95-1/98
As luck would have it, my build date is...6/95.
What's the diff?
Does it matter?
Is the later one better and if I switch to that, what else to I have to switch?
@OGBeno?
Pump Assy, Vane
44320-60181 8/92-6/95
44320-60182 6/95-1/98
As luck would have it, my build date is...6/95.
What's the diff?
Does it matter?
Is the later one better and if I switch to that, what else to I have to switch?
@OGBeno?
-60182 is the only number available.
Most of us try to stay away for Toyotapartsdeal
- Thread starter
- #115
I don't buy there, but I like that I can just punch in "power steering pump" or whatever, without knowing the part number. Once I have the P/N, I'm off to Partsouq...Most of us try to stay away for Toyotapartsdeal
That’s inefficient. Just put your VIN into partsouq and proceed to buying.
- Thread starter
- #117
Well it does emphasize how much cheaper Partsouq is.
Except on the fuel filter; dunno why. Anyway--you're saying that if I put in my VIN I can then use general search terms like 'power steering pump,' and come up with P/Ns? That would be efficient.
There are some parts that are much more expensive on partsouq. I don’t understand it.Well it does emphasize how much cheaper Partsouq is.
To a degree you can search parts like that, but I usually don’t search my parts like that. Anyway, I don’t find the search interface difficult or inefficient on partsouq.
- Thread starter
- #119
1) So, the fuse box, relay box, whatever you want to call it on the FZJ DS fenderwell under the hood--what the heck does Toyota call that, because I can't find the P/N using those search terms...
2) I recall reading somewhere that three gears should always be replaced together: crank gear (does that mean timing gear?), oil pump gear (15163-66021) and power steering pump vane gear (44316-60020). That sound right?
Thanks for any help!
2) I recall reading somewhere that three gears should always be replaced together: crank gear (does that mean timing gear?), oil pump gear (15163-66021) and power steering pump vane gear (44316-60020). That sound right?
Thanks for any help!
Last edited:
1: relay cover 82662-60050
2: never read this anywhere.
