1FZ power steering pump replacement... (3 Viewers)

[jjdeneen918]

Definitely! All in favor of @jjdeneen918 searching and collecting part numbers for this thread, like this post.

I was hoping for someone more knowledge & had done this before.

My guesstimate would be numbers 1,6,& 8 on this diagram.
1- power steering pump. 44326-60132
6- pressure line. 44411-60430
8- reservoir hose. 44348-60170

There appear to be 2 hoses to the cooling coil, not sure what size or type of hose is best.
Not sure what #7 is....

 

[jjdeneen918]

That was specific to a ‘96, but I’m sure it spans several model years...

 

[pawnthatdude]

All the part numbers you need and a lot of pictures and explanation are found in the FAQ thread for the power steering pump replacement: Power Steering Pump and Hose Replacement - FAQ

 

[jjdeneen918]

I’m guessing these 2 hoses offered by Joey at Wits End is hose labeled #8 and the longer hose (going to the resivour) as part #9.
There appears to be a second shorter hose coming from item #9, not sure if it’s the same hose, albeit shorter, on #9.

 

[NLXTACY]

It’s #8 and unlabeled. Toyota has it as an assembly but the hose is held by a clamp so it’s replaceable.

 

[jjdeneen918]

It’s #8 and unlabeled. Toyota has it as an assembly but the hose is held by a clamp so it’s replaceable.

Is the 2nd, shorter, unlabeled hose (as part of assembly listed as #9) available thru you?

 

[NLXTACY]

Is the 2nd, shorter, unlabeled hose (as part of assembly listed as #9) available thru you?

It “could” be but I never measured it.

 

[jonheld]

View attachment 1827065

I was hoping for someone more knowledge & had done this before.

My guesstimate would be numbers 1,6,& 8 on this diagram.
1- power steering pump. 44326-60132
6- pressure line. 44411-60430
8- reservoir hose. 44348-60170

There appear to be 2 hoses to the cooling coil, not sure what size or type of hose is best.
Not sure what #7 is....

I just replaced my high pressure PS lines 2 days ago. Part number 6 on the diagram above. Apparently the PO of my truck had replaced these with a non-OEM set and one of the crimps had started to weep pretty significantly. There was also a big difference in build quality. The OEM part, although more expensive, is extremely well built and very robust.
This is damn near impossible to do with the PS pump mounted on the block. It was far easier to simply pull the pump and put it in a vise to change the lines and torque to spec.
While I was in there, I replaced the reservoir and the 2 soft lines.

Pull the relay rod end off the pitman arm, remove the 2 bolts for the steering damper mount, and swing the relay rod assembly out of the way. This opens up more space for you to wiggle the pump out and back in with the lines attached.

 

[BayouFJ80]

Thank you so much for posting this. Did
Mine this week along with steering box with 105 upgrade, yoke and high pressure hose. Your instructions were perfect. I did change my oil too so having the filter removed was nice as was all the extra real estate from removing the battery and box. Even replace those flap wheel well pieces so there really wasn’t any obstruction or access issues at all and clear viewing. Thanks for making 80 life easier Dan.

 

[Takeadoe]

I have supplied several power steering pumps to board members over the last few years but I do not recall any of them detailing the actual replacement.

Mine has been seeping out the back cover for some time now and I decided that I wanted to replace it in preparation for our annual trip to Cruise Moab.

I respectfully submit my observations regarding this job:

Preparation:
Have on hand a new pump, body o-ring, high pressure gaskets and a quart of PS fluid.
In addition, a well-stocked tool box with metric tools, torque wrenches and a gear puller is a must.

I started by removing the high-pressure line banjo-bolt. This requires a 22mm socket, a wobbly and enough extensions to get your ratchet/breaker bar hooked up so that you clear the battery box.
In my case the high pressure port broke loose from the pump body before the banjo bolt let go and as a result I had to head back to the tool box. I selected a 13/16 open-end wrench and fitted it to the high pressure port so that I could hold it in place as I broke the banjo-bolt loose. After I removed the banjo-bolt I removed the return hose that goes from the reservoir to the pump outlet. I used Vicegrips to compress the clamps that retain the hose.
The next step involves removing the nuts (2) that retain the pump. I used a 14mm socket and a long breaker-bar to break the nuts loose. I got the lower one from under the vehicle and the upper one from the engine compartment. I then removed the nuts.

The pump comes out from under the vehicle. Once is has beeen removed it is necessary to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I used a 17mm socket and an impact wrench to remove the nut. I then used a two jaw puller to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I ended up using my impact wrench to rattle the puller enough to pop the gear off.
After the gear was removed I transfered the gear and key to the new pump. I used my impact wrench to install the nut on the shaft (torque spec 54lbft). I then installed a new o-ring to the pump body and re-installed the pump from under the vehicle.

The pump attaching nuts are torqued to 27lbft. At this point I reinstalled the return hose from the reservoir to the pump and I added some fluid until it started to come out of the high-pressure port and the hose. At that point I reinstalled the highpressure line with a new gasket.
I then torqued the banjo bolt to 54lbft and added enough fluid to get close to the line.
Next step is to start the engine and check for leaks. Turn the wheel side-to-side several times to bleed air out and heat the system. Add fluid to the correct level and congratulate yourself on a job well done.......


D-

EDIT NOTE:

The 17mm nut retaining the pump gear requires a 12 point socket.

I held the gear with a gloved hand (very heavy leather) when I rattled the nut off and on. It is possible to put the gear in a soft-jawed vice and use a breaker bar but I prefer not to subject the teeth to that stress. The impact makes quick work of the nut. It would be impossible to hold the gear by hand and remove the nut with a hand wrench.

Good morning CruiserDan and thank you for contributing to this piece. You noted to have on hand "high pressure gaskets." I'm sorry to bother you, but I'm not sure what you are referring to there. By chance, would that be part # 44327-30030? Just in case that is, when I use that part number it tells me that it does not fit my vehicle. Also, where is this part going? Sorry for all the dumb questions.

Mike

 

[Takeadoe]

I have supplied several power steering pumps to board members over the last few years but I do not recall any of them detailing the actual replacement.

Mine has been seeping out the back cover for some time now and I decided that I wanted to replace it in preparation for our annual trip to Cruise Moab.

I respectfully submit my observations regarding this job:

Preparation:
Have on hand a new pump, body o-ring, high pressure gaskets and a quart of PS fluid.
In addition, a well-stocked tool box with metric tools, torque wrenches and a gear puller is a must.

I started by removing the high-pressure line banjo-bolt. This requires a 22mm socket, a wobbly and enough extensions to get your ratchet/breaker bar hooked up so that you clear the battery box.
In my case the high pressure port broke loose from the pump body before the banjo bolt let go and as a result I had to head back to the tool box. I selected a 13/16 open-end wrench and fitted it to the high pressure port so that I could hold it in place as I broke the banjo-bolt loose. After I removed the banjo-bolt I removed the return hose that goes from the reservoir to the pump outlet. I used Vicegrips to compress the clamps that retain the hose.
The next step involves removing the nuts (2) that retain the pump. I used a 14mm socket and a long breaker-bar to break the nuts loose. I got the lower one from under the vehicle and the upper one from the engine compartment. I then removed the nuts.

The pump comes out from under the vehicle. Once is has beeen removed it is necessary to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I used a 17mm socket and an impact wrench to remove the nut. I then used a two jaw puller to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I ended up using my impact wrench to rattle the puller enough to pop the gear off.
After the gear was removed I transfered the gear and key to the new pump. I used my impact wrench to install the nut on the shaft (torque spec 54lbft). I then installed a new o-ring to the pump body and re-installed the pump from under the vehicle.

The pump attaching nuts are torqued to 27lbft. At this point I reinstalled the return hose from the reservoir to the pump and I added some fluid until it started to come out of the high-pressure port and the hose. At that point I reinstalled the highpressure line with a new gasket.
I then torqued the banjo bolt to 54lbft and added enough fluid to get close to the line.
Next step is to start the engine and check for leaks. Turn the wheel side-to-side several times to bleed air out and heat the system. Add fluid to the correct level and congratulate yourself on a job well done.......


D-

EDIT NOTE:

The 17mm nut retaining the pump gear requires a 12 point socket.

I held the gear with a gloved hand (very heavy leather) when I rattled the nut off and on. It is possible to put the gear in a soft-jawed vice and use a breaker bar but I prefer not to subject the teeth to that stress. The impact makes quick work of the nut. It would be impossible to hold the gear by hand and remove the nut with a hand wrench.

Dan - Sorry, after rereading the third time, I found myself scratching my head on this - "In my case the high pressure port broke loose from the pump body before the banjo bolt let go and as a result I had to head back to the tool box. I selected a 13/16 open-end wrench and fitted it to the high pressure port so that I could hold it in place as I broke the banjo-bolt loose." Not sure what you meant there. Also, wondering if that is necessary? Could the pump be removed first and then this disassembled?

Thanks once again.

Mike

 

[Skeet]

You’ll know this has happened when you’re trying to loosen the banjo bolt and the hose is rotating with the bolt. You can either place the wrench just below the bolt onto the port or remove the other end of the hose and leave it connected to the pump and remove the two parts together.

 

[Takeadoe]

Trying to stop a high pressure line leak at the pump, I took the banjo bolt off, but the high pressure port also broke loose first. I cleaned it and replaced it into the pump without knowing what torque spec. Replaced the line and banjo bolt, and had no leak--until I turned off the motor a while later. High pressure port leaking again, although not as bad. What is the torque spec on the port?

Hi Mason - Twice now I've read this - " I took the banjo bolt off, but the high pressure port also broke loose first." Is this something that can be avoided? Is it a problem if this happens as you describe it? Do you suppose this is what led to your leak?

Thank you.

Mike

 

[jonheld]

Hi Mason - Twice now I've read this - " I took the banjo bolt off, but the high pressure port also broke loose first." Is this something that can be avoided? Is it a problem if this happens as you describe it? Do you suppose this is what led to your leak?

Personally I found it easier to remove the pump with the hoses still connected. I was not able to get a good angle on the pressure fitting on the pump with it still in the truck. I pulled the whole shebang out, cleaned and replaced the lines on the work bench. Was able to inspect the pump gear for any abnormal wear, and cleaned up mating surfaces.

 

[pawnthatdude]

Hi Mason - Twice now I've read this - " I took the banjo bolt off, but the high pressure port also broke loose first." Is this something that can be avoided? Is it a problem if this happens as you describe it? Do you suppose this is what led to your leak?

Thank you.

Mike

Watch my video from when I changed my pump for the third time. I go over what happens if you run into this. You just need another wrench. I recommend taking the pump out with the hoses attached to it.

 

[Takeadoe]

Watch my video from when I changed my pump for the third time. I go over what happens if you run into this. You just need another wrench. I recommend taking the pump out with the hoses attached to it.

Hey guys, I really, really appreciate both of you taking time to respond to my post this morning. Pawnthatdude I stumbled onto your video via YouTube! I had 3 questions for you. In the video, the first bolt that you take off from under the truck (not counting the skid plate bolts ) is holding the high-pressure hose on. In my attached pic, I’m guessing that is the one with yellow circle. I think it wads like a 12 or 13mm. As you can see in the pic, I do not have a straight shot at that, as the high pressure hose is directly in front of it . I’m not sure how you were able to access it. The only way that I could around it was to remove the red 10mm bolt, which I ultimately stripped. The bolt actually faces the frame, which limited me to using a box wrench, which stripped it. I should back up. Last week I was trying to replace the power steering cooler, and to do that, I needed the high pressure hose out of the way so I could remove the lines behind it, which required removing the yellow bolt and associated bracket. Fast forward to this weekend when I discovered that in addition to the pinhole leak in my cooler, the back of my pump is covered with oil too! So, it looks like the red bolt (10mm) is going to have to be cut off if I want to take out the pump with the high pressure hose attached. What’s odd is I feel fairly sure that is the first bolt you removed, but there is no way I could have used the tool you used. For that matter, I don’t see how it could have been the yellow bolt either. I’m confused . Okay, next question. Did you actually break the old high-pressure hose getting it off? I get the sense that even holdIng the bottom 24 mm bolt, may not prevent damage? The reason I ask is that I don’t plan to replace the hoses, so naturally I don’t want to break it. Where I’m a bit confused is that I recall you holding the bottom 24mm bolt when you hit the 22mm with the impact. I’m in the process of trying to sell my Crusher! If I try to remove the high pressure hose from the pump while it’s own the vehicle, can I even get a wrench on the bottom bolt?

I really appreciate all of your help!!

Mike

 

[pawnthatdude]

Hey guys, I really, really appreciate both of you taking time to respond to my post this morning. Pawnthatdude I stumbled onto your video via YouTube! I had 3 questions for you. In the video, the first bolt that you take off from under the truck (not counting the skid plate bolts ) is holding the high-pressure hose on. In my attached pic, I’m guessing that is the one with yellow circle. I think it wads like a 12 or 13mm. As you can see in the pic, I do not have a straight shot at that, as the high pressure hose is directly in front of it . I’m not sure how you were able to access it. The only way that I could around it was to remove the red 10mm bolt, which I ultimately stripped. The bolt actually faces the frame, which limited me to using a box wrench, which stripped it. I should back up. Last week I was trying to replace the power steering cooler, and to do that, I needed the high pressure hose out of the way so I could remove the lines behind it, which required removing the yellow bolt and associated bracket. Fast forward to this weekend when I discovered that in addition to the pinhole leak in my cooler, the back of my pump is covered with oil too! So, it looks like the red bolt (10mm) is going to have to be cut off if I want to take out the pump with the high pressure hose attached. What’s odd is I feel fairly sure that is the first bolt you removed, but there is no way I could have used the tool you used. For that matter, I don’t see how it could have been the yellow bolt either. I’m confused . Okay, next question. Did you actually break the old high-pressure hose getting it off? I get the sense that even holdIng the bottom 24 mm bolt, may not prevent damage? The reason I ask is that I don’t plan to replace the hoses, so naturally I don’t want to break it. Where I’m a bit confused is that I recall you holding the bottom 24mm bolt when you hit the 22mm with the impact. I’m in the process of trying to sell my Crusher! If I try to remove the high pressure hose from the pump while it’s own the vehicle, can I even get a wrench on the bottom bolt?

I really appreciate all of your help!!

Mike

I don't recall any difficulty removing the high pressure hose bracket. I suspect yours might have been replaced in the past and put on differently or the hose is slightly different.

Only the third time did I have trouble removing the high pressure hose. It's very easy to bend the high pressure fittings and cause a leak. By the end of my man-handling of it, it was leaking from the fittings so I broke it off and replaced it.

I honestly do not know how people remove the high pressure hose while it is in the truck, that seems very difficult to access. Taking out the pump is not too hard, and probably easier than trying to remove the hose while the pump is in the truck.

 

[Takeadoe]

I don't recall any difficulty removing the high pressure hose bracket. I suspect yours might have been replaced in the past and put on differently or the hose is slightly different.

Only the third time did I have trouble removing the high pressure hose. It's very easy to bend the high pressure fittings and cause a leak. By the end of my man-handling of it, it was leaking from the fittings so I broke it off and replaced it.

I honestly do not know how people remove the high pressure hose while it is in the truck, that seems very difficult to access. Taking out the pump is not too hard, and probably easier than trying to remove the hose while the pump is in the truck.

Hey, I finally got that high pressure hose bracket out! Also, I found it easier to remove both the top and bottom nuts on the pump from below. The oil filter I have on now is huge and it was in the way. I had to buy a set of crow foot flare wrenches and I’m waiting on those to be delivered and then I’m ready to pull the pump out, with hoses attached still. I agree, not sure how you can extract high pressure hose while pump is still attached! Thanks for the help. Any advice for me when I go to unscrew 22mm banjo bolt? Other than hold on to the but below it?

 

[pawnthatdude]

Any advice for me when I go to unscrew 22mm banjo bolt? Other than hold on to the but below it?

The first two times I did this the banjo bolt came off without spinning the bottom bolt. For the banjo bolt I put the pump in a vice to hold it (and again to torque it).

 

[lz1gpa]

Hello guys! My PS pump is going for scrap soon and I have difficulties finding the replacement locally in East Europe. My engine is 1FZFE, 1994 and the OEM No of the pump is 44320-60182. On the market I can find only 44320-60170, which is for HDJ80. Do someone know if the pumps are compatible?