That sounds awesome! So did you just drill a bunch of holes in the ports and then just hack saw that out and then go to town with a drill and some sort of sanding/polishing bit?
1FZ Head Porting and CNC
- Thread starter hazard
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Hack saw? Drill holes? What do u mean? No drilling or cutting. I got a couple of carbide grinding type bits of different shapes like this:
SC-3 NF Cylinder Ball End Carbide Burr - Aluminum Cut - Made in USA | eBay
and went to town. Finished it up with some lighter duty sanding type bits but was far from a mirror finish.
I have no idea. I am like that dog that found the internet when it comes to this type of thing. I was trying to picture how I could use the tools I know about and own that could get the job done. That thing you linked to looks like a nice unit. I might try this out on a junk motor if I can find one. I could port and polish a 2RZ-FE head and then install it on my motor when I do the headgasket this spring.
So what else do you need? Something to sand or file it down so it's smooth? Do those bits you toss on the drill work good? Would a hand file be useful?
No problem I understand.
Lots of write ups on port n polishing on various forums as well as youtube videos. I used a harbor freight 90 degree pneumatic die grinder. It's like 10 bucks. Drill is too slow, need high rpm. Also wear safety glasses, a face shield, good gloves, and a dust mask. Be very careful near the valve seats and valve guides. A junk head is a great way to learn. Err on the side of caution, don't want to go too crazy and punch through a runner into a Coolant passage or something. With finer toothed carbide bits u can get it pretty smooth, but can get bits with non metal fibrous heads and sandpaper heads to get it finer. May need bits with long shanks so you can reach far into the runners.
1/4 in. Compact Air Die Grinder
1/4 in. Air Angle Die Grinder
Lots of write ups on port n polishing on various forums as well as youtube videos. I used a harbor freight 90 degree pneumatic die grinder. It's like 10 bucks. Drill is too slow, need high rpm. Also wear safety glasses, a face shield, good gloves, and a dust mask. Be very careful near the valve seats and valve guides. A junk head is a great way to learn. Err on the side of caution, don't want to go too crazy and punch through a runner into a Coolant passage or something. With finer toothed carbide bits u can get it pretty smooth, but can get bits with non metal fibrous heads and sandpaper heads to get it finer. May need bits with long shanks so you can reach far into the runners.
1/4 in. Compact Air Die Grinder
1/4 in. Air Angle Die Grinder
Thanks for being willing to share your knowledge.
I have a bunch of high speed hand tools, but I would buy more if need be.
I think I might do this. It would solve the issue of not wanting to tear down the motor that is in there now and then wait until the machine shop work is done and then needing to remember how everything came off a week later when the head comes back. I could just toss the new unit on right away and try to get it buttoned up in a weekend. The 2RZ-FE is not a popular motor and I bet I can get a head for cheap. I still would want a machine shop to do the valves and plane the head, but I wouldn't mind a few more horses under the hood of my little truck. Does doing a port and polish change anything else as far as valve settings or anything else goes?
Well since the machine shop will have to lap the valves you will have to set valve Lash/clearance, or at least double check it. That's it though. Their may be a writeup on the net for porting n polishing that head.
I think I briefly went into it in a few old posts, but here is a good video that kind of goes into the basics of how to do a hand port and polish on a cylinder head.
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
That's really interesting(although I thought I was going to have an aneurysm with the way he sped the video up
). I like the way the guy explains things, he knows what he is doing but understands that a lot of us watching don't.I am going to keep looking into this. It seems like it would be worth it, if for no other reason than it might gain some HP and run smoother which has always been my only complaint with this particular motor that I am thinking about doing it on.
I do have one question that is probably dumb, but hey, if the shoe fits... So what do you do about the exhaust and intake manifold gaskets if you change the shape of the ports? I was going to just order the Toyota valve grind kit, but if I port and polish, will those gaskets work and if not, what do you do instead?
Well I am not sure if you missed it or not but if you do change the port shape at all you match it to the gasket. I show this in my build. You use machinist blue or even a sharpie around the port, put the gasket there and bolt it down and then trace it and you can open the port to that size, but you really do not need to open the ports if you are staying stock just clean up messy casting and machining.
That's really interesting(although I thought I was going to have an aneurysm with the way he sped the video up
I am going to keep looking into this. It seems like it would be worth it, if for no other reason than it might gain some HP and run smoother which has always been my only complaint with this particular motor that I am thinking about doing it on.
I do have one question that is probably dumb, but hey, if the shoe fits... So what do you do about the exhaust and intake manifold gaskets if you change the shape of the ports? I was going to just order the Toyota valve grind kit, but if I port and polish, will those gaskets work and if not, what do you do instead?
I am at work, I haven't gotten through the whole vid yet. I should have waited before I asked, but I wanted to thank you for posting it.Well I am not sure if you missed it or not but if you do change the port shape at all you match it to the gasket. I show this in my build. You use machinist blue or even a sharpie around the port, put the gasket there and bolt it down and then trace it and you can open the port to that size, but you really do not need to open the ports if you are staying stock just clean up messy casting and machining.
Your answer makes sense and makes me more interested in doing this. Thanks again!
Sorry to hijack your thread @hazard
You’re not an a******, you’re just drawn that way. I get what you’re saying, but I’m boosting this thing. Maybe I don’t need but a cleanup, but a better flowing head should be good in that application.
Yea I agree, don't open up the ports too much. I opened mine up some, but spent more time on knife edging the divider wall whatever its called really nice and smoothed the the valve stem bosses so they werent so big on my motor. Any curves that seem restrictive I opened up, the 3vzfe has some pretty bad port curves that I attacked pretty good to open up. Most factory heads can benefit from a basic port n polish job. Lower rpm motors like a 3fe wont see as much benefit put 1fz I think would. Any pics of the 1fz stock exhaust ports?
Oh duh sorry
- Thread starter
- #75
any news on cnc 1fz?
- Thread starter
- #76
Anything new?
if you are interested in porting the 1fz head i would hit up 4 piston racing, looks like they have a cnc program for the gen 2 1fz head. if you have no idea who 4 piston racing is check this out. 4 Piston Racing | High Performance Cylinder Heads - https://4pistonracing.com/ they make the baddest ass honda n/a heads/engine builds. if you want to see some pics of their cnc ported 1fz go here
- Thread starter
- #79
Thanks
FYI. I recently spent an hour on the phone with David Localio of headgame motorworks, very well known porter. If you have time listen to his podcast interview with HP Academy. VERY enlightening.
Understanding my needs he feels that very little needs to be done, if anything to the 1FZ head unless you are revving very high. Stock valve size, maybe just a minor pocket port, short radius and minor chamber valve unshrouding. Even at that he was thinking only a 10% improvement. He is highly against bigger is better and gave me much caution and things to think about. I will definately be taking his advice but will be getting the bascics done
FYI. I recently spent an hour on the phone with David Localio of headgame motorworks, very well known porter. If you have time listen to his podcast interview with HP Academy. VERY enlightening.
Understanding my needs he feels that very little needs to be done, if anything to the 1FZ head unless you are revving very high. Stock valve size, maybe just a minor pocket port, short radius and minor chamber valve unshrouding. Even at that he was thinking only a 10% improvement. He is highly against bigger is better and gave me much caution and things to think about. I will definately be taking his advice but will be getting the bascics done
- Thread starter
- #80
Those picks look like large ports for turbo and high revs, nice but not for my build.
Cheers
Cheers