1FZ-FE Engine Build (2 Viewers)

[matthewscruiser]

next I placed the set plate side of the clutch in a shallow pan of water and warmed to about 110 degrees for 30 minutes (to ensure the clutch became the same temp as the water).

I loosened the set screws shown in green circles. I rotated the plate so that the windows in the yellow circles were half open. Then I retightened the set screws.

I filled the other half of the clutch with 42ml of 30k silicone using a syringe. It helps to warm the silicone first, it’s extremely thick at room temperature.

Thats it, I reassembled the two halves, and it’s ready for install!

 

[matthewscruiser]

Lower intake:

I began with a used intake that I degreased, walnut blasted, and treated with aluminum brightener. The lower intake contains some fuel system components.

A clean used fuel rail was carefully installed with GB Manufacturing remanufactured fuel injectors (x6 84212131) from Rock Auto. The injectors came with new O rings, isolators, and grommets, but I swapped them out for the ones supplied in the OEM overhaul gasket set. The upper grommet and O ring were placed on each injector with a very thin film of rubber grease, then each injector was inserted into the fuel rail. Next, the isolators were pushed into the clean injector holes on the lower intake. The 3 plastic fuel rail spacers (x3 90561-08020) were placed on the intake. The rail with injectors were set into place and secured with the new bolts (x3 9162160860) and torqued to 15 ft-lb per the FSM.

Next, a used fuel inlet pipe was cleaned and installed with a new union bolt (90401-12097) and crush washers (x2 90430-12026). All fuel system crush washers (6 total) are included in the overhaul gasket kit. The two mounting bolts are torqued to 14 ft-lb, and the fuel union bolt is torqued to 22 ft-lb.

 

[matthewscruiser]

A new OEM fuel regulator (23280-75010) was fitted by fully loosening the lock nut on the regulator so that it can be threaded as deep as possible into the fuel rail. Then, rotate the regulator counter clockwise until it is pointed parallel to the fuel rail as shown. Tighten the lock nut to approximately 18 ft-lb using a 17mm open ended wrench.

The used fuel return line was installed to the lower intake with two bolts torqued to 14 ft-lb. Then, a new flexible fuel hose (95334-06010) was installed with two new spring clamps (x2 96135-51100).

 

[matthewscruiser]

Lastly, a new fuel filter (23300-69045) was installed with new mounting bolts (x2 91621-B0816) that were torqued to 15 ft-lb. Another union bolt (90401-12097) and supplied crush washers were installed to connect the fuel supply line to the fuel filter. Torque is 22 ft-lb for this union bolt as well.

Lower intake complete!

 

[matthewscruiser]

Hey guys! I can't stress enough how important it is to TEMPORARILY cover the EGR ports on the cylinder head and upper intake... It's super important to protect these ports from dust and debris until you install your factory emissions equipment.

The mighty upper intake, also known as the "air intake chamber assembly" is up next. I am building mine to retain the charcoal canister and PCV system, but I will install the EGR system later... definitely before running the engine. If you want to know how to properly seal the EGR systems, to protect it from dust and debris until you install the engine/emission systems, this is how to do that. I have not seen anyone remove the vacuum lines and blue vacuum switching valve associated with the EGR. I did. We'll see if it works!

Order 3.5mm Toyota Vacuum hose (x3 90999-92003). Cut the following hoses as seen in the green section of the table Order 1 foot of generic 6mm silicone vacuum hose. Cut the hoses listed in the blue section of the table. You will also need the formed hose, 90910-05217, and x4 3.5mm vacuum caps, 90339-03005. I used some OEM clamps, as well as some from a universal kit.

First install a new VSV (90910-12043) on the tube assembly. It's the brown switch. Then fix the tube assembly to the upper intake and torque bolts to 14 ft-lb. Install the light blue VCV (90925-03192) as shown in the picture.

Next, install the two 30mm hoses (#1,#2) and check valve (90917-10049) as shown in the orange circle. Make sure the black end of the check valve is pointed towards the VCV. Install the vacuum T fitting next. From this view, cap (#15) the right port (90339-03005), use a universal clamp if it makes you feel better. Connect the OEM formed hose (#13) to the left port and intake as shown, and use the clamps if you desire. They are not used here from the factory.

Install hose #10 onto the top port of the VSV and connect to the tube shown. Install hose #7 from the side port of the VSV to the tube shown.

Install two hoses (#8,#9) onto the two tubes as shown. These will later be connected to the TVV on the cylinder head.

Attach hose #6 to the tube as shown. This will later be connected to the fuel pressure regulator.

Install hose #4 to the tube as shown. Install a new gas filter (90917-11022) to the upper intake and connect to the other end of the hose.

Install hose #3 to the VCV and connect to the tube as shown.

Install hose #11 with clamps from the VCV to the tube shown.

Install 6mm hose #12 on the VCV with clamps as shown.

Install hose #5 on the port as shown. This will later be connected to the throttle body. Install hose #16 next to it.

Install Cap #14 with clamp.

 

[matthewscruiser]

On the top side, you can see the new gas filter installed and the port for the brake booster vacuum line (90404-51237). I installed a 3.5mm vacuum cap to the port on the right side of the photo. The last vacuum cap goes on the service port below the light blue VCV, I did not get a good picture of that.

I plugged the EGR temp sensor hole with a M10x1.25x12mm allen set screw with some blue Loctite to seal. This will keep dust out until I install the EGR temp sensor later.

 

[matthewscruiser]

For EGR plates (to cover port on cylinder and intake until I still my EGR), I got a 6061 1/8" aluminum plate from McMaster Carr. I traced the gaskets and used a jig saw to slowly cut the pieces out. I marked the holes with a center punch and used a friend's drill press to drill the holes out to 5/16" (8mm). I filed and sanded the plates.

To fasten the cylinder head plate, I inserted two zinc plated m8x1.25 studs (14mm depth into head, 16mm thread depth on plate side, with 6mm shoulder in between.). I Installed the OEM gasket, plate, M8 washers, and M8x1.25 flange nuts. The nuts were torqued to 16 ft-lb.

To fasten the intake plate, I just used the existing studs. I installed the OEM gasket, my plate, M8 washers, and M8x1.25 flange nuts torqued to 15 ft-lb.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Time to mate the upper/lower intake. I place the gaskets on the lower intake, placed the two intakes together, and torqued all the bolts/nuts to 15 ft-lb. Intake is now mostly done. I'll handle the rest when I install the engine.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Well, it's time for some finishing touches on the engine.

I installed a new Aisin WPT023 water pump using x2 90080-10249 bolts, x2 91511-B0860 bolts, and x2 90179-08040 nuts. For some reason, mine didn't come with studs, so I installed x4 90116-08112 studs using two M8x1.25 nuts. Then, ensure the surface is clean, place the OEM supplied gasket and water pump on the engine, install hardware and torque them all to 15 ft-lb.

Install the water pump pulley (163716-6020) and fan clutch using x4 90179-08040 nuts.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Next is the water outlet (16251-66010) and it's bypass tube (16268-66010). Lube the 3 supplied OEM O-Rings with soapy water or rubber grease. Place two in the grooves of the bypass tube, then insert the tube into the water out without pinching an O-Ring. Place the last O-Ring in the groove on the face of the water outlet. Install onto the engine with x2 91511-J0840 bolts torqued to 15 ft-lb.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Exhaust Manifolds. Maybe I went a little overboard, but I bought new exhaust manifolds (17142-66010 & 17141-66020) and had them ceramic coated locally. I did this both for cosmetics and to keep the heat outside of the engine bay. Place the new exhaust manifold gaskets supplied in the overhaul kit on the engine. Place the exhaust manifolds on the engine and secure with x13 90179-10037 nuts. Torque to 29 ft-lb.

Install new studs (x4 90080-12007) into bottom of the manifold using an E10 socket.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Install half moons (x2 11183-50010) with 103 FIPG. Place the valve cover gasket on the valve cover and install with x13 90105-06221 bolts. Torque is 9 ft-lb. I had previously painted the valve cover, and installed a new PCV valve, oil filler cap, and spark tubes.

Lastly, install a new fan belt adjusting bar (16381-66030) with the previously installed timing cover nut/bolt. Use some FIPG on the bolt when reinstalling to 15 ft-lb.

 

[OGBeno]

Do you work in a professional shop?

 

[matthewscruiser]

Do you work in a professional shop?

No, just a 27 year old guy who enjoys building things in his free time! I’ve been putting the engine together at an aircraft hangar where I work as a pilot. They kind enough to let me have some personal space for this build.

 

[OGBeno]

No, just a 27 year old guy who enjoys building things in his free time! I’ve been putting the engine together at an aircraft hangar where I work as a pilot. They kind enough to let me have some personal space for this build.

Pilot. Makes sense now.

Great work. Good documentation.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Pilot. Makes sense now.

Great work. Good documentation.

I went to school for mechanical engineering and went the pilot route afterwards. Flying airplanes is easier

Thanks! I couldn’t help myself from documenting most of it. Seems like a requirement if I’m going this far.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I went to school for mechanical engineering and went the pilot route afterwards. Flying airplanes is easier

Thanks! I couldn’t help myself from documenting most of it. Seems like a requirement if I’m going this far.

Outstanding

 

[OGBeno]

I went to school for mechanical engineering and went the pilot route afterwards. Flying airplanes is easier

Thanks! I couldn’t help myself from documenting most of it. Seems like a requirement if I’m going this far.

Well, the good thing is you aren’t reinventing the wheel; 1FZ-FE is a pretty easy engine to rebuild, has been rebuilt a million times globally, and ascribes to ME mentality.

 

[matthewscruiser]

Well, the good thing is you aren’t reinventing the wheel; 1FZ-FE is a pretty easy engine to rebuild and ascribes to ME mentality.

It’s a great engine! If I’m careful enough, I’m not going to have to dig into this engine for a long long time. And that’s why we all love Toyotas!

 

[OGBeno]

It’s a great engine! If I’m careful enough, I’m not going to have to dig into this engine for a long long time. And that’s why we all love Toyotas!

Bingo, homie.

Solid work on the hardware as well. Most people pussy-out on the hardware. The hardware is where the detail lies.