1fz-fe crankshaft scarred? (1 Viewer)

[Fj80oregon]

Getting the motor torn down the rest of the way and not sure if this is common, acceptable and can be fixed or should I stop now. Or is this not a issue. First time rebuilding a engine! The head is going to the machine shop already . Thanks motor is from a 95 with 260k. Bought to rebuild and swap out my 97 motor with 270k on original head gasket.

 

[baldilocks]

Looks like marks from the casting process on the crank cheeks. The depth of the marks/scratches on the cylinder wall will need to measured in order to know for sure if the block is useless. Can you catch a finger nail or a scribe on them?

perhaps you’ve gone out of your way this route and should have simply replaced the HG on the engine you have been running.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Looks like marks from the casting process on the crank cheeks. The depth of the marks/scratches on the cylinder wall will need to measured in order to know for sure if the block is useless. Can you catch a finger nail or a scribe on them?

perhaps you’ve gone out of your way this route and should have simply replaced the HG on the engine you have been running.

It’s not to late to do just the head gasket! No I can not catch a finger nail on them. For me this is a in depth learning process and great therapy alone in the garage while the family is sleeping or gone. Hope your trip was a success a couple weeks ago!

 

[jfz80]

4.6 will fix that cylinder right up

 

[Fj80oregon]

4.6 will fix that cylinder right up

That’s the plan if everything thing else checks out. And a Joey turbo nxt year!

 

[Fj80oregon]

Pulled the pistons going to talk with machine shop and see what he thinks/advises.

 

[coax]

Those pistons look in way better shape than mine did and I had no problems going with the +1 pistons. Same with the bores.

I've not enough experience with these engines to comment on the counterbalance side of those marks on the crank. But it sure doesn't look like something jammed in there to cause that, and they are to evenly spaced across all of them that I'd also guess it was part of casting.

I guess it comes down to the condition of the other engine, how good the bearing journals look on the crank, etc. If you are that far in that you need to bore the cylinders you'll be doing full rebuild; what is the condition of the other engine? Are you sold on doing full rebuild of either one at this point?

 

[Fj80oregon]

Those pistons look in way better shape than mine did and I had no problems going with the +1 pistons. Same with the bores.

I've not enough experience with these engines to comment on the counterbalance side of those marks on the crank. But it sure doesn't look like something jammed in there to cause that, and they are to evenly spaced across all of them that I'd also guess it was part of casting.

I guess it comes down to the condition of the other engine, how good the bearing journals look on the crank, etc. If you are that far in that you need to bore the cylinders you'll be doing full rebuild; what is the condition of the other engine? Are you sold on doing full rebuild of either one at this point?

Did you go all oem? On the pistons and rings. Other engine has 260 on it and is burning a quart every 1k was just going to do the head but got this motor cheep and was thinking why not full rebuild and turbo one day. Thanks for the input

 

[coax]

Did you go all oem? On the pistons and rings. Other engine has 260 on it and is burning a quart every 1k was just going to do the head but got this motor cheep and was thinking why not full rebuild and turbo one day. Thanks for the input

Yes all oem with the exception of a new oil pressure sender. Opted to get the +1 pistons, rings, bearings, all of it OEM. All the original marked bearing sizes were available as well for the main and rod (plus the undersized, or is it oversized ones). Made it very easy to order knowing it would work and price was reasonable. Most of it was procured from amayama or partsouq. Went together real nice. I also added the oil bung from Joey to hopefully also get a turbo one day. An extra 50 bucks of tig welding cast aluminum was worth it for the hassle it will save one day.

Get a new oil pressure sender and sub-harness as well. Its probably corroded out and was the best 50 bucks I spent on the rebuild.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Yes all oem with the exception of a new oil pressure sender. Opted to get the +1 pistons, rings, bearings, all of it OEM. All the original marked bearing sizes were available as well for the main and rod (plus the undersized, or is it oversized ones). Made it very easy to order knowing it would work and price was reasonable. Most of it was procured from amayama or partsouq. Went together real nice. I also added the oil bung from Joey to hopefully also get a turbo one day. An extra 50 bucks of tig welding cast aluminum was worth it for the hassle it will save one day.

Get a new oil pressure sender and sub-harness as well. Its probably corroded out and was the best 50 bucks I spent on the rebuild.

Awesome I will have to get ahold of @NLXTACY to get that bung here. I will try to get ahold of Amaya for parts. Nice work!

 

[NLXTACY]

Awesome I will have to get ahold of @NLXTACY to get that bung here. I will try to get ahold of Amaya for parts. Nice work!

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