1fz crank pulley bolt and oil pump cover. (2 Viewers)

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I got grab it’s and a screw extractor set but nothing is working what are the chance of me tapping new threads and drill out?
I bought and used a Craftsman screw gun that has impact on it just for this job on mine. Made the job a breeze! Looks like there may be enough cross left in there to get a couple more with the right tool.

Yes, you can drill out the head of each screw, then remove the cover, and grab the remaining tip with small vice grips and unscrew them. I suggest left-hand drill bits (O'Reilly has an inexpensive Cobalt bit extractor drill set with left-hand bits). You may need to buy a right-angle drill to get in there.
 
Try building up weld a little at a time so you don’t melt the aluminum and then grab it with vise grips and give it a twist.
 
I used this Milwaukee FUEL M12 compact impact driver with the Grab It Pro screw extractors. Easy peezy. Drilled a hole in the center of the screw with one side of the bit (?#2 bit) flipped the bit, put the drill in reverse, and zziippp.


 
Drill the heads off and remove the remaining studs. Replace and be done with it.

Toyota part 15183-66020

Use a #3 JIS bit to install.
So if I drill the head of there is enough to grab with vide grips?
 
So if I drill the head of there is enough to grab with vide grips?

Yes, the cover is fairly thick and even though the head is tapered IF you stop drilling after having gone deep enough to just remove the head, you should have enough to grab. BUT it's possible you have galvanic corrosion going on....so before I drilled anything out I would use a phillips bit and tap each screw pretty hard several time to loosen the threads. You might even remove 2-3 more of them and not have to drill them out.

 
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So if I drill the head of there is enough to grab with vide grips?
Got em just needed a beer or 4

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Yes, the cover is fairly thick and even though the head is tapered IF you stop drilling after having gone deep enough to just remove the head, you should have enough to grab. BUT it's possible you have galvanic corrosion going on....so before I drilled anything out I would use a phillips bit and tap each screw pretty hard several time to loosen the threads. You might even remove 2-3 more of them and not have to drill them out.

That’s the kit I got @witts end just got to do the dizzy and will be all sealed up Except for the rear main bit that’s another one in its self. And new water pump!

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What do you guys make of all the stress fractures on the timing chain cover??

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AFAIK that happened when it was cast. Newer castings IME are finer grain, smoother.
 
Good on you. Beer is the universal solvent. You can pull the trans inspection cover and check for oil around the torque converter to have am idea whether it's the rear main seal or the oil pan arch. Oil pan arch means you have to pull the pans and reseal, but that's better than pulling the engine. Not much, but a little better.
 
Well looks like I will be replacing my radiator I broke the dam steam breather port attempting to break the crank bolt loose. Didn’t get it either!!:bang:. So Icalled it a night and ordered a new tyc1918 radiator hope it holds up seems the reviews are decent. And also gave @witts end some more cash and bought his blue fan clutch. Mine was making a little noise and original. So I will try again tomorrow I had a 3 foot cheater bar and it slipped of with all the force I was applying. Any good ideas. I have the pulley locked in place just need to brake that sucker free??
I use a snap on 4X torque multiplier. It makes taking the crank bolt off as easy as taking off a 10 mm nut.
 
What do you guys make of all the stress fractures on the timing chain cover??

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I’ve witnessed those cracks on several 1fzs I’ve helped on. Not an issue IMHO.

Congrats on the screw removal! I don’t recall that being worked on but obviously someone less talented was there before you.
 
Good on you. Beer is the universal solvent. You can pull the trans inspection cover and check for oil around the torque converter to have am idea whether it's the rear main seal or the oil pan arch. Oil pan arch means you have to pull the pans and reseal, but that's better than pulling the engine. Not much, but a little better.
Good to know I did not know about the oil pan arch.
 
I was thinking about it this morning how the scepter of knowledge of these issues (the oil pump cover screws and the pan arch) has been passed around on this site over the last near 20 years. How many people have run into the same screw issue that you did is almost a rite of passage for these trucks. Fortunately, those that went before you have tried about everything so theres no need to reinvent the solutions to these minor ailments of an otherwise fantastic rig.
 
Drill the heads off and remove the remaining studs. Replace and be done with it.

Toyota part 15183-66020

Use a #3 JIS bit to install.
This and your friendly wit's end can take some more of your money for those ;)
 

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