1fz crank pulley bolt and oil pump cover. (1 Viewer)

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So I am gonna pull crank pulley tonight hopefully after kids go to bed. I found a post with a tool mocked up and made one at the shop today to hold the Pulley in place while I attempt to break it loose. Also going to replace seal and oil pump cover. Once again @Wittsend came through with the kit. I have read multiple post and still had a few questions.
1. Does the orientation of the pulley matter when I pull it? I will have to get it lined up with my tool and not sure if I can pull it off or have to have it in a certain position?
2. Do I need to drain oil to replace two said items?
3. Am I forgetting anything?
I picked up a 30 mm 6point socket today and have #3 JES screw tips from @Wittsend. New belts and hoses to replace also.
 
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I've only done this job once, so I'm not The Expert. But as I recall there is a woodruff key on the crank which keys in to the harmonic balancer and if you drop it into the engine during this job you're going to be adding work. So, when I did it I turned the crank (I think with the massive torque wrench I got from Harbor Freight) so that the key was at 6 o'clock. As soon as I got the harmonic balancer off I took the key off and put it in a labeled ziploc bag.
I didn't drain the oil when I did this job, and I don't recall losing any oil. I think you're working well above the resting oil level.
For me, the key was using the #3 phillips tips and gently tapping them in about ten times to the oil pump cover screws. Then I got my quarter inch impact on the bit without disturbing the good bite I had established in each screw, and they came right out. A quarter inch impact is a key tool for this job IMHO.
Good luck. You probably know that TexasKnowHow has an excellent video about this job on YouTube. If you're not familiar with it I highly recommend giving it a look.
 
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I've only done this job once, so I'm not The Expert. But as I recall there is a woodruff key on the crank which keys in to the harmonic balancer and if you drop it into the engine during this job you're going to be adding work. So, when I did it I turned the crank (I think with the massive torque wrench I got from Harbor Freight) so that the key was at 6 o'clock. As soon as I got the harmonic balancer off I took the key off and put it in a labeled ziploc bag.
I didn't drain the oil when I did this job, and I don't recall losing any oil. I think you're working well above the resting oil level.
For me, the key was using the #3 phillips tips and gently tapping them in about ten times to the oil pump cover screws. Then I got my quarter inch impact on the bit without disturbing the good bite I had established in each screw, and they came right out. A quarter inch impact is a key tool for this job IMHO.
Good luck. You probably know that TexasKnowHow has an excellent video about this job on YouTube. If you're not familiar with it I highly recommend giving it a look.
Does the key go in behind the front main seal? And does it have to be taken out? Does it just slide out? And it can be pushed in to far? Thanks
 
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As I recall, the key it outside of the front main seal. I think if I were you I'd check that out in the FSM, I don't want to mislead you with my memories from the one time I did this a few years ago. I'm sure others will chime in shortly who know this job better than I do. Or you could search for woodruff key in this forum.
 

wagonteeth

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Key is outside of the front seal. Just be careful sliding the pulley back on. If it rotates once back on the key is gone. Mine didn't come out after pulling the pulley, oil pans, head and timing cover. Its not just loosely in there.

Easiest to put the engine at tdc and the key will be at the bottom.

I'll second the Philip's head bits. Tap them in with a hammer to seat them and hopefully no issues.
 
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The key does not have to be taken out; first time I took it out, next time
I left it alone. IIRC with the timing mark of the pulley pointing at ~ 5 O'clock, the key was about close to 12 O'clock (upright).

Before sliding the crank pulley back on I put a mark on the pulley up and over the top in line with the key way so I wouldn't be hunting left-right-left trying to get it lined up with the key which can dislodge the key. It's a blind procedure unless you put a mark on the pulley.

Do not put a large glop of grease inside the pulley mounting hole (where the key way is), it can push the key out of position (which happened first time I did this).

After that near miss I now just use a swipe of an moly/graphite assembly lube on the ID of the crank pulley hole and the nose of the crank, but nothing in line with the key so as not to disturb it.

You don't have to drain the engine oil, but IME removing the oil filter before you start decreases the amount of drippage coming back down toward the pump from the filter when you're trying to keep that area clean while installing the gasket and screws.

I like to clean out the screw holes, then when installing the cover use a Low Strength (Purple) thread locker on the new screws to reduce galvanic corrosion (for when I do the job again in 20 years).

Also like to coat the new gasket/O-ring with something like Dow Corning 55 O-ring grease, or if you don't have that handy, regular Dielectric grease, to stick it in place.

To make reassembly a bit easier, you can get some longer screws than the originals from the hardware store,, same threads, cut the heads off, and use a couple of them as locating studs to hang the cover in place while installing the new screws.

Once you've got some of the screws in place go back and remove the studs and finish installing the rest of the screws. The studs help stabilize the cover so you don't knock the new O-ring/gasket out of place while fiddling with the screws.

FWIW
 
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Well looks like I will be replacing my radiator I broke the dam steam breather port attempting to break the crank bolt loose. Didn’t get it either!!:bang:. So Icalled it a night and ordered a new tyc1918 radiator hope it holds up seems the reviews are decent. And also gave @witts end some more cash and bought his blue fan clutch. Mine was making a little noise and original. So I will try again tomorrow I had a 3 foot cheater bar and it slipped of with all the force I was applying. Any good ideas. I have the pulley locked in place just need to brake that sucker free??
 

MoJ

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Well looks like I will be replacing my radiator I broke the dam steam breather port attempting to break the crank bolt loose. Didn’t get it either!!:bang:. So Icalled it a night and ordered a new tyc1918 radiator hope it holds up seems the reviews are decent. And also gave @witts end some more cash and bought his blue fan clutch. Mine was making a little noise and original. So I will try again tomorrow I had a 3 foot cheater bar and it slipped of with all the force I was applying. Any good ideas. I have the pulley locked in place just need to brake that sucker free??
 
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^^^This^^^

I remove the high tension lead from the coil pack first (so the engine doesn't start) and just flick the key to bump the starter. Don't have the pulley locked in place when you use this method, of course.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
More than a few people have done a temporary (or long term) fix for the broken nipple syndrome:




For the next radiator to protect the nipple:

 
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^^^This^^^

I remove the high tension lead from the coil pack first (so the engine doesn't start) and just flick the key to bump the starter. Don't have the pulley locked in place when you use this method, of course.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
More than a few people have done a temporary (or long term) fix for the broken nipple syndrome:




For the next radiator to protect the nipple:

So I think I will try the starter method, questions
1. Can I do this with valve cover, throttle body, all belts off.
I was planning on doing this step after the motor was back together. But got ahead of myself.
 
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So I think I will try the starter method, questions
1. Can I do this with valve cover, throttle body, all belts off.
I was planning on doing this step after the motor was back together. But got ahead of myself.

I also used the starter bump method successfully. Be sure to ratchet strap the breaker bar to the frame so it doesn't go anywhere. Also be really sure the ignition wire is disconnected.

The engine only needs to spin briefly so without the valve cover you will only make a small mess but I could be wrong. :meh:
 
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Starter bump method did not work for me.

I had to use the 14MM impact socket on the TC bolt and a long cheater pipe on a 3/4" drive breaker bar.
 
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So I have the pulley secured with the tool I made that another member had the measurements and design. It’s sound like I just need to be a big boy and break it loose, I just don’t want to bend or break anything. I’m gonna pull radiator tonight so I will have more room to work.

DF23F271-ED4C-487F-9AC0-39B63442A0A4.jpeg


26C65D09-261F-4A88-8C61-0999DEBB8240.jpeg
 
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Are you sure that tool will be strong enough?:rofl:

No need to pull the radiator unless you really need to or want the space. Looks like it'll go just fine.
 
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Are you sure that tool will be strong enough?:rofl:

No need to pull the radiator unless you really need to or want the space. Looks like it'll go just fine.
It’s over kill 3/16 plate and 3/8 square tube I could hang a semi of it. I broke the nipple on the radiator after my cheater slipped so radiator is getting replaced.
 
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With the radiator out of the way you should be able to get a compact cordless
impact wrench on the bolt. I have two, a super compact for small jobs, and then the big dog for lug nuts etc. So nice to zzziippp and it's off.



This smaller one below is very compact, but might not have enough reverse torque for the crank bolt. But then again I've been surprised how well some of these cordless tools work:

 

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