1F distributor on a 2f Engine?`

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Jan 31, 2003
"the whale's vagina", CA
I bought a new project fj40, 72 body and a 76 2f engine. I am working on trying to get the car running. Today I drained the tank, new gas, changed oil, pulled funky carb that was on there and replaced with a 2f used cleaned up carb. I could not get it to start so I: set the timing mark on the flywheel with the marker. It looked like the disty was put in wrong, so I pulled it and put it back in so the rotor was pointing just forward of the #4 cylinder along with the timing mark lined up. I then adjusted the valves per the fsm. Still did not start. I checked that the carb is getting fuel, it is. I checked spark from the coil on the coil wire pulled off the cap and got good spark. I checked spark on the plugs and it was there but minimal.

I did notice that the disty that is in the block has 2 mounting holes and I think the po put the earlier disty in the block? I pulled a 76 2f disty I have in storage and noticed it has the one mounting hole along with the single mounting hole in the 2f block.

will using a 1f disty keep the engine from starting?

when I try to start the car, I turns over fine but I am getting major blowback through the carb and no ignition.

any help appreciated.

If the 1F dissy is installed in close to proper time it will work just fine. If it's popping back through the carb I'd bet the timing is 180 degrees out. Meaning the dissy was put in wrong and needs to be pulled and reset.


Be aware that the machined neck to accept the distributor holddown clamp is different between old F and newer 2F dissys. If the tall F clamp is used on a 2F dissy, the dissy will hit the top of the clamp before it actually bottoms out on the top edge of the block. There will not be full engagement of the oil pump drive tang with possibly fatal results.

Dunno why it won't start. Sounds like ign timing is way out.
thx Jim, I will check it again today to see if I did something stupid and put it in 180 degrees off. I am also going to replace the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. The plugs were somewhat fouled but IMO it should of still started. I have a 2f disty that I may swap in there as well as the new cap and rotor I ordered are for a 1976 disty.

My 78 is running a 73 vaccuum retard distributor and it's working ok. If the old distributor is a 72 then I think it is also a vaccuum retard. Try not hooking up the vaccuum to it at all. Check out what Mark told me: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/481842-1978-carb-1973-distributor-help.html#post6614000 But yeah sounds 180 out if it is blowing back through the carb. Line up the BB, put the rotor pointing right at Number 1, and that ought to get it close enought to start. If that is not starting, then line up the BB and point it at number 6. Once it starts trying to start you know you are getting close.

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