1999 LX470 Repair evaluation (cooling, steering, bushings, belts. Driveshaft installed backwards WTH) (1 Viewer)

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The estimate is trusted and from a forum recommended indy shop. Which one's are priority, in other words, something I want no part of diy in my driveway. Thanks for input.

-Transmission cooler line was repaired (hole in rubber hose and leaking fluid) and fluids topped off

-Power steering rack bushings are bad, will require replacement of steering rack ($1000)

-Lower radiator hose swollen (from transmission leak), recommend replacing hose and coolant flush included ($300)

-Belt glazed over – tension belt separating ($150)

-Both front axle boots are torn, need flanges ($680 each side)

-Rear driveshaft installed backwards ($115)

-Both rear axle upper lateral arms bushing tearing ($650)

-Both valve cover gasket leaking ($460)

-Both front lower ball joints are loose ($695)

-Heater coolant T’s are brown, becoming fragile ($145)

- Belt replacement, coming up on 3rd T-belt, last serviced 2016 at 175K ($1200)
 
There is no such thing as “backwards” for the rear driveshaft.

Also you can replace just the steering rack bushings if the rack itself is ok (about $50 in parts and the rack does not need to be removed from the truck).
 
Power steering rack bushings are bad, will require replacement of steering rack ($1000)
Not true. The bushings can be replaced. However, if you're at 200k miles or more, then the rack is probably worn internally and needs replaced.
Transmission cooler line was repaired (hole in rubber hose and leaking fluid) and fluids topped off
Which line? I ask because of this statement below:
Lower radiator hose swollen (from transmission leak), recommend replacing hose and coolant flush included ($300)
Was transmission fluid leaking into your coolant? If so, you NEED to replace the radiator immediately.
Both front axle boots are torn, need flanges ($680 each side)
Outboard splines are probably worn all to hell too. Best to just replace both front axles and hub flanges.
Rear driveshaft installed backwards ($115)
So the slip yoke was at the t-case end, not the rear diff end?
Both rear axle upper lateral arms bushing tearing ($650)
Lowers are probably torn, too. Easiest to just buy new arms that have new bushings, instead of trying to replace the bushings.
Both valve cover gasket leaking ($460)
Should replace PCV valve, grommet, and hose, as well as the spark plug tube seals. Also a good time to replace spark plugs, coil packs, and have your fuel injectors serviced.
Both front lower ball joints are loose ($695)
Odds are the lower control arm bushings are torn/tearing, too. Can replace the ball joints now with Sankei 555 from Cruiser Outfitters and do the bushings later, or just buy new control arms that already have new bushings and ball joints in them.
Heater coolant T’s are brown, becoming fragile ($145)
Replace immediately, before they bust and blow up your engine, so that you don't become another meme:

Belt replacement, coming up on 3rd T-belt, last serviced 2016 at 175K ($1200)
Water pump, fan bracket, among other items, should probably be replaced as well.
 
Yes there is. Position of the slip yoke is critical.
Why would the location of the slip yoke be important, let alone critical?

If I remember correctly, the later model years FSM shows the driveshaft going one direction and the earlier model years show the opposite.

When I replaced my rear driveshaft 30k miles ago I intentionally installed in the opposite direction compared with the one I was replacing (slip yoke at diff), as I figured it was more favorable to have the slip yoke on the lower end so that nothing drips inside.
 
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I knocked out the timing belt on mine over Christmas. In addition to the normal parts list for the TB I replaced all the idlers, fan bracket, radiator, hoses, heater tee's, serpentine belt and its idlers, spark tub seals & new plugs (new cover gaskets) and flushed the cooling system. All in I spend right at $1,300 in parts and it took about 3 days to complete for a first timer on a 100 series. The radiator was roughly $450 alone so you can knock out about half your items yourself for less than half the quoted prices.
 
Yes there is. Position of the slip yoke is critical.
Hmmm, tell me why? Mechanically speaking I found no difference running it either way.

Orientation varies by FSM edition and platforms.

Fwiw Ive had the driveshafts oriented to run my slip yoke at the TC for past 40k miles. This keeps it out of the line of fire from mud- water- rocks- debris.
 

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