1998 LX470: temporary deceleration at highway speed (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 6, 2013
Threads
1
Messages
6
Location
Turlock, Ca
To the community,
I have used much of the information from this site, and the threads herein to diagnose and fix many problems that I have encountered over the years. I appreciate the sound advice and thorough write-ups that you contribute, and I hope to offer the same as I learn.

The background:
I recently purchased a 1998 LX470 with 300k on the odometer, and it is a stellar rig. No major problems have arisen to this point. I picked up the vehicle for $8,000 from a family member who drove it for a year before returning to Germany as a missionary. He purchased it from a fellow that was the head of the maintenance department at a Benz dealership. Service records indicate that the alternator, starter, timing belt, and water pump were replaced at 220k miles with OEM parts. Regular oil changes and other factory prescribed fluid changes were performed at appropriate intervals. Though the high mileage was initially a concern, I purchased the vehicle with confidence and have not regretted it one bit. My thought is that if something went badly wrong, I could recover much of the cost by selling the off-road components and subsequently, the rest of the vehicle for parts. It is outfitted with an ARB front bumper, a Slee spare swing-out rear bumper, and Slee sliders. it sits upon new 285 BFG A/Ts. Perhaps these items won't recover me a full $8k, but they could offset cost in the event of a catastrophic engine event.

The problem:
After driving for a week or so I noticed that the vehicle would decelerate at highway speeds under normal, steady throttle (50-70mph). The speedometer and tachometer dip temporarily, and after pumping the throttle pedal, the vehicle returns to normal acceleration. It will do this 4-5 times on a 15 mile drive to town. Each fit of deceleration lasts for 10-15 seconds, and occasionally will require a few attempts to remedy. On longer drives, 100-300 miles, the vehicle seems not to have the same problem. The event is at least much less frequent on longer drives. It is as though it works out the kinks in the first 50 miles and behaves properly for the duration of the drive. I have read the TPS and APPS write-ups by NMuzj100 and Davidsob from a while back, and they are quite helpful. I suppose my purpose here is to determine if the way I have described this problem is in line with the need for TPS and/or APPS replacement. I notice that changes in weather may have a slight effect on the problem. On hotter days, I feel it more than on cooler days. I live in central California, in a rural area where the air quality suffers from wildfires and almond harvest, and the temperature can reach 105-109F; for what it's worth. After I bought the rig, I replaced the old battery with a new Interstate battery. Due to the battery having been disconnected, the problem went away for a week until it figured out how to misbehave again. The vehicle is not throwing any codes other than an ABS code that hasn't put any lights on the dash, or revealed any braking symptoms. I cannot recall the code exactly, but I will look it up again this week.

My question:
if you were me, would you replace the TPS and APPS according to these symptoms? Would you replace both, or the cheapest one first? Could an ABS code indicate that there is an ABS deceleration sensor that may be the culprit? Thank you for taking the time to read this.
 
My 2001 LX 470 does the same thing. Notice it more during warmer weather. Awaiting some replies…
 
APPS or pending fuel pump failure would be where I would look first. NO codes is common for those items. TPS can be checked but I would just replace it at that mileage, not expensive.
 
APPS or pending fuel pump failure would be where I would look first. NO codes is common for those items. TPS can be checked but I would just replace it at that mileage, not expensive.
To the community,
I have used much of the information from this site, and the threads herein to diagnose and fix many problems that I have encountered over the years. I appreciate the sound advice and thorough write-ups that you contribute, and I hope to offer the same as I learn.

The background:
I recently purchased a 1998 LX470 with 300k on the odometer, and it is a stellar rig. No major problems have arisen to this point. I picked up the vehicle for $8,000 from a family member who drove it for a year before returning to Germany as a missionary. He purchased it from a fellow that was the head of the maintenance department at a Benz dealership. Service records indicate that the alternator, starter, timing belt, and water pump were replaced at 220k miles with OEM parts. Regular oil changes and other factory prescribed fluid changes were performed at appropriate intervals. Though the high mileage was initially a concern, I purchased the vehicle with confidence and have not regretted it one bit. My thought is that if something went badly wrong, I could recover much of the cost by selling the off-road components and subsequently, the rest of the vehicle for parts. It is outfitted with an ARB front bumper, a Slee spare swing-out rear bumper, and Slee sliders. it sits upon new 285 BFG A/Ts. Perhaps these items won't recover me a full $8k, but they could offset cost in the event of a catastrophic engine event.

The problem:
After driving for a week or so I noticed that the vehicle would decelerate at highway speeds under normal, steady throttle (50-70mph). The speedometer and tachometer dip temporarily, and after pumping the throttle pedal, the vehicle returns to normal acceleration. It will do this 4-5 times on a 15 mile drive to town. Each fit of deceleration lasts for 10-15 seconds, and occasionally will require a few attempts to remedy. On longer drives, 100-300 miles, the vehicle seems not to have the same problem. The event is at least much less frequent on longer drives. It is as though it works out the kinks in the first 50 miles and behaves properly for the duration of the drive. I have read the TPS and APPS write-ups by NMuzj100 and Davidsob from a while back, and they are quite helpful. I suppose my purpose here is to determine if the way I have described this problem is in line with the need for TPS and/or APPS replacement. I notice that changes in weather may have a slight effect on the problem. On hotter days, I feel it more than on cooler days. I live in central California, in a rural area where the air quality suffers from wildfires and almond harvest, and the temperature can reach 105-109F; for what it's worth. After I bought the rig, I replaced the old battery with a new Interstate battery. Due to the battery having been disconnected, the problem went away for a week until it figured out how to misbehave again. The vehicle is not throwing any codes other than an ABS code that hasn't put any lights on the dash, or revealed any braking symptoms. I cannot recall the code exactly, but I will look it up again this week.

My question:
if you were me, would you replace the TPS and APPS according to these symptoms? Would you replace both, or the cheapest one first? Could an ABS code indicate that there is an ABS deceleration sensor that may be the culprit? Thank you for taking the time to read this.
I understand a previous owner was a mechanic, but we all overlook things sometimes. That said, I'd start by changing the fuel filter since it would be cheapest/easiest fix.
 
I understand a previous owner was a mechanic, but we all overlook things sometimes. That said, I'd start by changing the fuel filter since it would be cheapest/easiest fix.

Always good maintenance and often overlooked or neglected.

Generally, fuel filter issues will be constant (not intermittent) but could manifest as a power loss under heavy acceleration.

Definitely change it....if records do not show it has been.

FF2.jpg

FF3.jpg
 
I appreciate the feedback from you all. It looks like I may be replacing a few things here. I reckon @300k, it isn't unreasonable to expect most of these items need replacing. I think I'll start with TPS and fuel filter, and then bite the bullet on fuel pump and TPPS afterwards if symptoms persist. I'll post results when I see some. Thanks again.
 
This may not be the same issue, or relevant to you, but I had some recent issues that I would like to outline in case it helps anyone.

I was having an issue when on the highway in 4th gear (2000, so OD) around 2k RPM, my RPM would hop a little. It would bounce down 100rmp and come back and would do it repeatedly until I let off and got back on the throttle. It would drop the RPM about every half second and it would pop back ever half second. I had this issue for a year and tried some little things here or there to try and remedy but no luck.

Fast forward to this July. I was driving to CO from Dallas and I stopped to get gas in a little town near Amarillo. I filled up and went to start the truck and it just cranked and cranked and cranked. Knowing the platform I thought fuel immediately. I also noticed that the "security" light in the center stack was not turning off when I put the key in. This light indicates if the transponder is present to allow the fuel system to operate via the EFI relay. There is also a fuse next to that relay, I looked at the fuse and visually it was ok. I tried to get smart and build a bypass but some searching here showed me it wasn't as simple as making a jumper. In that process I accidentally popped the EFI mini fuse. I replaced the fuse, put the relay back in and figured let me try to crank it. It fired right up! I get going down the road and after a long week in CO, lots of highway time, and a drive back, it occurred to me that it didn't do that throttle bounce thing one time after I replaced that fuse. Its been 2 months since. I haven't driven it much but still it has not done it a single time.

All this to say, I would look into replacing that EFI fuse and relay and just seeing if it changes anything.
 
This may not be the same issue, or relevant to you, but I had some recent issues that I would like to outline in case it helps anyone.

I was having an issue when on the highway in 4th gear (2000, so OD) around 2k RPM, my RPM would hop a little. It would bounce down 100rmp and come back and would do it repeatedly until I let off and got back on the throttle. It would drop the RPM about every half second and it would pop back ever half second. I had this issue for a year and tried some little things here or there to try and remedy but no luck.

Fast forward to this July. I was driving to CO from Dallas and I stopped to get gas in a little town near Amarillo. I filled up and went to start the truck and it just cranked and cranked and cranked. Knowing the platform I thought fuel immediately. I also noticed that the "security" light in the center stack was not turning off when I put the key in. This light indicates if the transponder is present to allow the fuel system to operate via the EFI relay. There is also a fuse next to that relay, I looked at the fuse and visually it was ok. I tried to get smart and build a bypass but some searching here showed me it wasn't as simple as making a jumper. In that process I accidentally popped the EFI mini fuse. I replaced the fuse, put the relay back in and figured let me try to crank it. It fired right up! I get going down the road and after a long week in CO, lots of highway time, and a drive back, it occurred to me that it didn't do that throttle bounce thing one time after I replaced that fuse. Its been 2 months since. I haven't driven it much but still it has not done it a single time.

All this to say, I would look into replacing that EFI fuse and relay and just seeing if it changes anything.
This is great info. I’m all for trying the small potential fixes first, if possible. I will look into it. Thanks for taking the time.
 
This is great info. I’m all for trying the small potential fixes first, if possible. I will look into it. Thanks for taking the time.
I figure a mini fuse is like $.50 so why not. Solved a head scratcher for me by accident!
 
To the community,
I have used much of the information from this site, and the threads herein to diagnose and fix many problems that I have encountered over the years. I appreciate the sound advice and thorough write-ups that you contribute, and I hope to offer the same as I learn.

The background:
I recently purchased a 1998 LX470 with 300k on the odometer, and it is a stellar rig. No major problems have arisen to this point. I picked up the vehicle for $8,000 from a family member who drove it for a year before returning to Germany as a missionary. He purchased it from a fellow that was the head of the maintenance department at a Benz dealership. Service records indicate that the alternator, starter, timing belt, and water pump were replaced at 220k miles with OEM parts. Regular oil changes and other factory prescribed fluid changes were performed at appropriate intervals. Though the high mileage was initially a concern, I purchased the vehicle with confidence and have not regretted it one bit. My thought is that if something went badly wrong, I could recover much of the cost by selling the off-road components and subsequently, the rest of the vehicle for parts. It is outfitted with an ARB front bumper, a Slee spare swing-out rear bumper, and Slee sliders. it sits upon new 285 BFG A/Ts. Perhaps these items won't recover me a full $8k, but they could offset cost in the event of a catastrophic engine event.

The problem:
After driving for a week or so I noticed that the vehicle would decelerate at highway speeds under normal, steady throttle (50-70mph). The speedometer and tachometer dip temporarily, and after pumping the throttle pedal, the vehicle returns to normal acceleration. It will do this 4-5 times on a 15 mile drive to town. Each fit of deceleration lasts for 10-15 seconds, and occasionally will require a few attempts to remedy. On longer drives, 100-300 miles, the vehicle seems not to have the same problem. The event is at least much less frequent on longer drives. It is as though it works out the kinks in the first 50 miles and behaves properly for the duration of the drive. I have read the TPS and APPS write-ups by NMuzj100 and Davidsob from a while back, and they are quite helpful. I suppose my purpose here is to determine if the way I have described this problem is in line with the need for TPS and/or APPS replacement. I notice that changes in weather may have a slight effect on the problem. On hotter days, I feel it more than on cooler days. I live in central California, in a rural area where the air quality suffers from wildfires and almond harvest, and the temperature can reach 105-109F; for what it's worth. After I bought the rig, I replaced the old battery with a new Interstate battery. Due to the battery having been disconnected, the problem went away for a week until it figured out how to misbehave again. The vehicle is not throwing any codes other than an ABS code that hasn't put any lights on the dash, or revealed any braking symptoms. I cannot recall the code exactly, but I will look it up again this week.

My question:
if you were me, would you replace the TPS and APPS according to these symptoms? Would you replace both, or the cheapest one first? Could an ABS code indicate that there is an ABS deceleration sensor that may be the culprit? Thank you for taking the time to read this.
To whom the information may be useful:

I replaced the fuel filter with a Lexus OEM unit, and it did not fix the problem. After wrestling with a flake of paint caught between the bugle shaped compression fitting ends, I finally stopped the gas leak on the high pressure side of the new filter, tightened things down officially, and waited for the aforementioned deceleration symptoms. They returned immediately, but I am glad to have replaced the filter nonetheless. My next step was to replace the APPS (part # 22060-50010). I purchased a new OEM unit from LexusPartsNow.com, it cost me $377 out the door with shipping and tax. I probably could have sourced a better price or gone for a Tundra unit, but time is of the essence right now. I replaced the APPS this morning early with the help of Davidsob's "An illustrated guide to replacing your APPS" on the forum. Things went swimmingly, and the problem is resolved as far as I know. I test drove the LX470 at various speeds; steady, accelerating, decelerating, all of it. The throttle seems to have a new crispness to it, and the vehicle idles the way it always did. I was hoping to be able to add to Davidsob's post with anything I noticed in order to help develop meaningful info. Here are some not-so-critical things to pay attention to.

- Most every part of this project can be done with a 10mm socket and a Philips screwdriver.

-I found there to be 4 or 5 hoses attached the the greater air-cleaner unit that needed to be disconnected before I could remove the plastic behemoth and begin the work.

- Of the 3 Phillips-head screws that attach the APPS to the throttle body, One of mine was extremely tight, such that I saw the screwdriver starting to strip while I was trying to loosen it. I stopped, applied a few drops of penetrating lubricant, and used a Dewalt impact gun with a fresh Phillips bit to loosen it. I barely, I do mean barely pressed the trigger on the gun to allow one cycle of the impact function to loosen the screw. I want to be clear on that. Everything else was hand tight, and hand retightened upon installation.

I will update if symptoms return, thank you all for the helpful insight.
 

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