1998 Engine Replacement Q's (1 Viewer)

[offthebeatenpath]

Looking at a '98 Cruiser, 180k, one owner. Engine blew on them.

What limitations do I have in looking for a replacement engine? Obviously the 4.7 was available in other vehicles over a number of years, what should I be looking for in a swap?

I'm guessing I can't go with a VVT engine from '05+, but can I look at anything previous to that? Does it have to be out of a 100 or 470 or can I look at Tundra and Sequoia parts too?

 

[Sandroad]

What else did the engine take with it? These engines don't blow up. Something went really wrong. Keep in mind that replacement is more than mechanical fit, there are lots of electronics and vehicle-specific accessories to "fit" too. Since other 100s are available, why not skip this one and get one with an engine?

 

[offthebeatenpath]

Still working on getting a straight answer on that.... let's just say that the current owner of the vehicle in question isn't mechanically inclined.... at all.
The main reason I'm looking at this one is price, that's it. He's asking $6500 and doesn't know what he has or how much work it will be, he just didn't want to pay for a reman Toyota engine. I'm kind of just trying to sort out if I have to locate a 100 series 4.7 or if I can broaden my search. Seems like it has to be a 100/470 engine to just drop in.

 

[offthebeatenpath]

Oh, and it's been a California and Montana car it's whole life, one owner, with service records.
So zero rust, and everything else should be tip top, but I would have expected the engine to not blow, so I'm curious to get the full story. Literally, when I asked the guy what happened, he couldn't tell me. He doesn't have any idea.

 

[OGBeno]

If it's got a "blown engine" (whatever that might possibly mean), then I wouldn't pay more than $1000-2000 for a rolling UZJ100.

A local company down here in GA, JARCO, does phenomenal engine rebuilds for dealer sales. You cannot buy directly from them but I would be happy to broker a deal between you and them. They do very nice rebuilds of Toyota engines specifically using OEM Toyota parts for important components--bearings, seals, gaskets. They always use Aisin, Denso, Yazaki, and other Toyota suppliers in their rebuilds.

We currently have a rebuilt 4.7L in the shop that we bought from them for a significantly cheaper price than going all Toyota.

Anyway, just an idea.

Good luck.

 

[packetstormin]

Hell I am trying to sell a 2000 that runs for 8k. You can find better cruisers out there just keep looking.

 

[duggy]

I would not be scared to replace the engine but definitely swing for a better deal.

 

[TXLX100]

That's high for a non-running cruiser. I've seen beat up/high mileage running 100s sell for around $3k on this site.

 

[offthebeatenpath]

I appreciate the input for sure, that's why I asked for it!
Bear in mind that there aren't too many folks that live in Montana. Shoot, I think we just crossed the 1 million residents mark a year or two ago.... so there aren't that many Cruisers either. Also, Montana isn't really on the way to anywhere. Shipping stuff here is expensive.
There's something to be said for looking a vehicle over with my own eyes and talking with the real owner (maybe not worth much in this case).
All that to say, if I need to give him a low-ball offer that he can think on, so be it. I know I've looked at a few Cruisers in the 98-00 range with 200k on the clock in the $8-10k range, so I'm not jumping at $6500 that's for sure!

 

[offthebeatenpath]

Just talked with the actual owner, turns out I had only talked with her son before.... and here's the story-
-Had it serviced in CA in April, prep for drive to MT.
-Drove to MT, no issues.
-Got in for a 45 min drive; ten miles in the check engine light came on, ten minutes later the oil light came on, then came the clicking and the smoke and then it stopped......
-Dealer said all the coolant was gone. My guess was/is water pump blew and they didn't notice the temp gauge go up? Kept driving until the engine blew. Not sure exactly what's wrong, no holes in the block, etc, but it won't turn crank without lots and lots of noise.
-I told them I may make them an offer, but it would have to be worth my time and it wouldn't be for $6500.

 

[TheForger]

I completely agree with Sandroad. These engines don't just "blow up" without taking other things with it. I just sunk mine in a river and sucked water into my engine until it stalled and it didn't even hydrolock; didn't bend a single rod or piston and it cranked right up after draining almost 4 liters of water out of the block and intake. These things are beasts and they're built like it. I highly recommend getting Toyota's 160pt inspection on that cruiser if you intend on purchasing it to make sure everything else is working properly.

Official Jeep Recovery Vehicle

 

[ENGINE er]

Paid 7300 for my 98 with 198k miles on it 3 years ago. Just had torn up seats. Keep shopping or get it for $2k

 

[packetstormin]

Agree. I would offer around 2500. Also, you should call a couple wreckers and see what they would offer, then use that as negotiating ammo. In the end, if no ones buys it the way it is and they don't fix it, then it will end up at a wreckers.

 

[TeCKis300]

This is an opportunity that may work out rather well and net you a running 100-series for pretty darn cheap if you know how to navigate it.

Engine swaps, especially long block swaps are cake. Though looks like you'll need to take care of the cooling system too as it would seem that's what led to the motors demise.

What you'll want is a non-vvti (meaning no '05/'06+ motor, vvti transitioned in slightly different years depending on model) pulled from a wrecker. Since the 470 motors were in so many different chassis (quick short list off the top of my head - Tundra, Sequoia, 4Runner, GX, LX) it should be cake to find. And it should drop right in, or 99.5% of it will drop right in. The last .5% will be parts that you already have on hand in the car like bracketry/mounts.

For a car like this, I would source it from the wreckers rather than a re-build as I personally have more faith in a solid, lower mileage un-opened running motor than from rebuilders. It is somewhat a luck of the draw, but pulled motors have starting warranties.

Oh, last hint. car-parts.com

 

[offthebeatenpath]

Well, here's an update:
-I let some time slide by, and they lowered the Craigslist price from $6500 to $3500.
-I called the closest junkyard, they said they'd only pay $300.
-I looked at 100 series diesel swap options (thankfully, that's way out of my price range).
-Looked up used motors on www.car-part.com Good source, I can get a clean motor with 140k on it shipped to me for $1700, but I'm still shopping.
-Called the owner and made an offer of $2k. She said they were considering donating the vehicle, so my offer is looking pretty good. I'll know more in the next few days.

Next round of questions:
-What do you mean by "These engines don't just "blow up" without taking other things with it." What else could it be taking with it?
-I'm figuring I'll replace the radiator, do the timing belt/water pump while the engine is out, and flush the coolant system before I fire it up. I've done an engine swap before, but that was on my 85 CJ7.... I realize this is a different animal. What else should be on my checklist?

 

[LimaBravo]

I think $2000 is a very fair offer.

I'd replace the heater hose t's. (Check the FAQ for a really good thread started by @paflytyer). You may just want to put all new hoses in as well.

Get an OEM radiator if you can.

 

[DanInDenver]

Take another read of post #5. When an Oracle of Toyota wisdom posts on your topic you should follow up.

The blowup is rare and brings into question how well thus was cared for. Check out everything on the vehicle.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[TheForger]

If/when a Cruiser engine blows up it's rarely just the engine that has damage. It usually damages anything from your starter, alternator, radiator, to all your hoses. I'd make sure to get everything checked to make sure you solve any and all additional problems that might be caused by the collateral damage of the engine blowing.


Official Jeep Recovery Vehicle

 

[offthebeatenpath]

Maybe I used the wrong terminology.... saying the engine blew up might have been an overstatement.
It does not by external appearance look as though anything wrong under the hood. Everything looks as it should. There was no fire. No thrown rods or holes in the block. My understanding is that I'm not going to find out exactly what's wrong unless I pull the oil pan or the heads off the engine.

Thanks for your help!

 

[offthebeatenpath]

The guy I spoke with at the local salvage yard told me that for the interchange differences between the LC and Tundra motors I would have to retain my oil pan and exhaust headers in order to make the Tundra motor work.